Derek Reich
Forum Replies Created
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Well, since the Cow still hasn’t allowed the post, I’ll try this:
There is a certain forum which uses the first letter of each of the two words ‘Digital’ and ‘Video’, combined with the first four letters of the word ‘information’. I think you can figure this out…. go to that site, and do a search on either ‘Century Optics wide angle’, or my name. You should be able to find the post pretty easily.
Sorry it’s so difficult. I’ve run into this with the Cow before, and it’s annoying when all when all we’re trying to do here is share information. Last time the post eventually showed up, but it took a day or two….. -
There is no simple answer to this question unfortunately. I have been shipping anywhere from 10 to 20 (and sometimes even more) cases regularly for 20 years now. In the last several years, I have never seen so much confusion and varying ‘rules’ from airline to airline. What ships just fine on one airline is a huge problem for another. I’ve even had my package shipped just fine from one airport and become an issue at another airport but with the same airline on the same day. It has become so frustrating that I agree with Bob…. Fedex is an excellent solution if you have extra time. Their economy shipping is close to what excess baggage often is. I have never had anything damaged or lost with Fedex (knock on wood!) I would hesitate to ever use UPS for this kind of shipping, both because of personal experience with damage, and they are much more expensive with heavier cases.
A couple of things to consider:1) Having a LEGITIMATE press credential (with photo) is often required for getting the ‘media rate’ with the airlines. Delta is particularly picky about this. Often, you have to convince the ticket agent there even IS a media rate, but it does exist on most major carriers. Southwest is one of the easiest to fly with when checking a large amount of media gear.
2) For most media rates, the weight limit is up to 100lbs per case. There is usually no size limit (within reason) and no extra fee for larger cases (within reason). The big cases may show up in overize baggage claim, but that’s the only hassle. I have been told by one airline that the limit for the number of cases was 10 one moment, 7 another moment, and no limit the next. You have to be persistent if you have a lot of cases…. one of the worst things that can happen is to get all your equipment checked at one airport outgoing, only to find when you are ready to return that the airport you are now flying out of won’t allow that many cases for you to fly home. That’s where Fedex is your savior.
3) Pelican cases are still your best bet. I have some which have been in regular service for 20 years, and are only now showing signs of all the mileage. When a hinge or latch breaks, Pelican will replace it free. Forever. If a case is damaged beyond repair, they’ll ship you a new one. Forever. I just don’t see anything that can compete for the price, and they’re really not that heavy compared to the old Anvil cases we all used to use.
4) The TSA is going to go through them, so if you want to lock them just put a cable tie on them and put a couple new ties inside for the TSA to replace the ones they cut off. They will almost always do this, and sometimes even put their own ties on if you forget. Don’t make the packing too complicated, or they’ll never get the stuff back the way you like it.
5) Most airlines will allow the cases to be shipped as cargo, but you have to set up an account with a certified cargo shipper in advance. I have yet to try this, but it has been suggested as a reasonable alternative to checking the cases.
5) Just drive instead. You’ll lower your blood pressure dramatically.
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Bob, I have posted a link to a comparison test I did a while ago with all of Century Optics wide adapters. Since it was on a competitive forum site, it will be delayed by the Cow for ‘bad words’ (ie: mentioning the other forum) but should show up shortly. Check back for the link…. it will provide you with a lot of information about wide adapters for the EX1.
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Thanks for the reply, Craig.
We’ve got the same monitor…. this is what I purchased, too. Unfortunately, when I bought it thinking I could use it as a field monitor for the EX3 in a pinch, I forgot the EX3 doesn’t have HDMI. But the component inputs work fine. The picture from the EX is beautiful, and just choosing the NTSC profile already in my computer doesn’t look too bad. Let me know what you find calibrating with the Spyder? I know this is capable of looking better…. and for critical still editing (the real reason I bought it) the reds are waaaaaaay over saturated. (this is consistent with what others have experienced too, but when properly calibrated it should be quite a good display) Now I need to go shopping for a spyder….. -
They were shot in 1920 HD resolution, I just downsized the capture frames for fast download w/in the forum for comparison purposes between the two lenses. Since both files are downsized the same, the comparison between the two lenses still works.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do- -
Hi, Stephen-
The lens is a Canon J20aX8B4IRS. I included a link to another forum where I had some capture frames posted, but the cow apparently doesn’t like other forums mentioned here. (really? I thought this was about sharing information….)
So either that will show up eventually, or you can write me direct and I’ll give you the link
cheers
Derek -
Hi, Stephen-
Sure…. it is a Canon J20aX8B4 IRS. This is the only 2/3″ lens I have tried on the EX, so I can’t speak to other lenses as to the performance, but I was extremely pleased with the results from this lens.
You can see some capture frames here:
https://www.dvinfo.net/forum/sony-xdcam-ex-cinealta/145123-2-3-sd-lens-ex3.html
It was a rather hastily put together test, but you can see for yourself that the Canon holds up very nicely to the Fuji.
Good luck!
cheers
Derek -
I have used a Canon 20X broadcast 2/3″ lens on my EX3 with stellar results. Don’t assume that because a lens isn’t ‘HD’ that it won’t be crisp on your EX3. My Canon actually is sharper than the stock Fuji lens it came with. Part of the reason for this is where you would most notice any fall off is at the edges of the frame. Using a 2/3″ lens on a 1/2″ camera means you won’t even see the outer edges of that glass anyway. (you’re only using the ‘sweet spot’)
Just because a lens is not branded (read: ‘marketed’) as ‘HD’ does not mean it will not perform equal to or in this case even superior to a ‘HD’ counterpart. At least in this instance.
As far as the depth of field… well, that has more to do with your sensor than the lens in this case. You do get a large bump in focal length, and some decreased depth of field, but probably not as much as you are hoping for. If you want a really shallow depth of field, you’re better off buying a 35mm adapter and using a 35mm lens. Keep in mind that by doing this, you are dramatically increasing focal length, (by 5.4X) so you’ll have to allow for that in your shooting environment. Only the Nikkor and Canon FD adapters will allow for aperture adjustment, the Canon EOS will not. (you have to set your aperture on a SLR, then put it on the EX, which seems ridiculous to me)
Happy shooting- -
I highly recommend the Bebob Coco EX mount instead: https://www.bebob.de/produkte/?product=8717&lang=de
The ‘V’ mount batteries lock in solidly, and you also have the tremendous benefit of 4 hirose power taps (for wireless receivers or other accessories) and 2 D-tap power sockets for lights. You don’t need a shoulder mount with this adapter, but it actually makes the camera more balanced (I use the DM Accessories baseplate–STRONGLY recommended–with shoulder mount) especially if you want to piggy-back two V-mount batteries. -
The WA (wide adapters) are the only option for the EX1/1r. Here are some examples of what is available from Century (Schneider) Optics:
https://www.dvinfo.net/forum/sony-xdcam-ex-cinealta/477833-century-wide-adapters-comparison.html