David Rowan
Forum Replies Created
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Your clips need to have a little extra pad (or handles, or extra video or overlap) in order to make the transition. Keep in mind most transitions actually blend the images, so you see parts of both for a moment.
If you are at the very last frame of clip “A” and then you lay down clip “B” from its very first frame then you have no overlap. Imagine taking one brick and laying it down right next to another brick, they are butted end-to-end. Like this:
[++++Clip A++++][===Clip B===]The problem is most transitions, like a dissolve, combine the two images for a moment. That means that they need to overlap. Like this:
[++++Clip A++++]
……………[===Clip B===]See how the last part of A and the first part of B overlap? (I hope this works in your browser or I’m sunk).
I’m not talking about using two video tracks in the timeline. They can be (and sometimes have to be) on the same video track, its just that you need to have a little extra video at the end of clip “A”, and a little extra video at the start of clip “B”. Thats whats called “Handles”.
The fix for your current situation is to look at the duration of the effect (lets assume its the default 1 second or rather, 30 frames). At each point where the transition is not working go back about 15 frames from the edit and mark an “in”, then go to the point 15 frames after the edit and mark “out” now delete and close up the section. You now have 15 extra frames at the end of clip “A” that you don’t see, and 15 extra frames at the start of clip “B” that you don’t see. You should be able to add the effect, and it will use those unseen extra frames (handles) to make the effect.
Of course I’m completly ignoring the problems this will cause with your audio, if thats all finished. You can lock the audio tracks but if you delete a second around every video edit your going to have some other adjustments to make.
In the future make sure you capture your clips with a little extra video at the beginning and end. In the preferences you can actually set FCP to do this automatically (“add handles”). Or when you are laying down your clips make sure the IN-POINT is a few frames in from the first frame of the clip, and the OUT-POINT is a few frames back from the last frame of video in the clip.
DWR
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Thats funny, I’m the other way ’round. It seems like the desktop is the only place I can download to, since nothing ever asks me what folder I really want. I’m using Firefox mostly and Safari sometimes.
DWR
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OK I stumbled on a solution. I loaded up a blank CDRom, then I dragged the radioactive folders to it, each time these bad volumes landed on the disk they dissapeared in a puf of smoke. Literaly.
DWR
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Peak only does pitch shift in the full version, not the Peak DV version
DWR
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Actually they want you to drink some Ale before you send the stuff over. To relax you.
DWR
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I’m going to try and say the same thing as Matt, but in a different way. Its not about how long your clips are, but weather or not they overlap.
If you are at the very last frame of clip “A” and then you lay down clip “B” from its very first frame then you have no overlap. Imagine taking one brick and laying it down right next to another brick, they are butted end-to-end. Like this:
[++++Clip A++++][===Clip B===]The problem is most transitions, like a dissolve, combine the two images for a moment. That means that they need to overlap. Like this:
[++++Clip A++++]
…………..[===Clip B===]I’m not talking about using two video tracks in the timeline. They can be (and sometimes have to be) on the same video track, its just that you need to have a little extra video at the end of clip “A”, and a little extra video at the start of clip “B”. Thats what Matt called “Handles”.
The fix for your current situation is to look at the duration of the effect (lets assume its 1 second or rather, 30 frames). At each point where the transition is not working go back about 15 frames from the edit and mark an “in”, then go to the point 15 frames after the edit and mark “out” now delete and close up the section. You now have 15 extra frames at the end of clip “A” that you don’t see, and 15 extra frames at the start of clip “B” that you don’t see. You should be able to add the effect, and it will use those unseen extra frames (handles) to make the effect.
Of course I’m completly ignoring the problems this will cause with your audio, if thats all finished. If you delete a second around every video edit your going to have some other adjustments to make.
In the future make sure you capture your clips with a little extra video at the beginning and end. In the preferences you can actually set FCP to do this automatically (“add handles”). Or when you are laying down your clips make sure the IN-POINT is a few frames in from the first frame of the clip, and the OUT-POINT is a few frames back from the last frame of video in the clip.
As for the lense flare, there is a transition I downloaded from Eureka called “Vapor Accross” that isn’t quite a lense flare, but gives some of the same feel. Its actually more like someone opened a film camera back and over-exposed a section of movie film. Sorry I cant recall the URL.
DWR
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How about a Yak?
DWR
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What you are looking for is under System Settings.
Go to Final Cut Pro —> System Settings. The first tab is for setting your capture scratch. First you have to add the disks you want to use, then for each disk check the thing you want recorded on it.
DWR
DWR
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I cant get my Mac to talk to all the PC’s around here, but its just because the security net on the PC’s is so I tight I cant figure out how to log into them. Eh, why bother.
I got myself one of those little “Pen drives” or “Pocket drives”. Plug it in the USB of the PC and copy my file, walk over to the Mac plug it in and Voila! Its even faster than using the LAN, anyway (compared to the Mac to Mac transfers I do). I use a 264MB Jumpdrive that lives on my keychain. I’m keeping my eyes open for a good sale on a 1Gig.
DWR
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If you have captured it as dual mono then, when you open it in the viewer, you will see a tab for each audio channel. Click the tab for the audio you want to kill. Take the red line and drag it down to the bottom. The audio will still be there, but it is “turned off”.
If you have captured it in stereo you could put the clip in a timeline, seperate the audio channels (modify and click “stereo pair”) and delete the bad audio channel.Then you can use that sequence as the clip you edit from, or you could even export it as a quicktime movie with its new, modified audio.
Or you can use Quicktime Pro to make a copy of it with dual mono audio. Thats kind of the hard way.
DWR