Daniel Miller
Forum Replies Created
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Im sorry, I didnt clarify. They want to shoot video with both cameras. The NTSC as the A cam and the PAL as the B cam. Its getting the two frequencies (50 and 59.94) to play nice in post Im worried about.
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Earlier you mentioned this is high speed photography. Are you putting the tiffs in order in your timeline to make it play as a clip? I guess that post through me off a bit. If this is the case, you can use quicktime to build the clips from the images for you. If they are numbered sequentially, open up quicktime file>import>images sequence I believe, and it will ask you for the first image in the sequence. Point it to the first image and then it will build the clip for you. Export it from QT into whatever format you want. If im totally wrong about what youre trying to do, I apologize. Anyway, I hope this helps in some way.
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Yes, look at the control panel on the smart side at the rear of the camera. there is a section labeled “video out” in that section one of the switches has 3 positions labeled 1)HD-SDI 2) SD-SDI and 3) VBS. Put the switch in the VBS position, then go out of the video out port and into the OB monitor. Works like a charm.
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If im understanding correctly, you have your timeline assembled and your just wanting to capture a few clips that or now offline.
in your timeline, try right clicking (or control click, if you are without a mightymouse) and then selecting recapture. Im not sitting in front of my system so I cant remember if thats an option, but im pretty sure it is.
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hey man,
Im doing the same thing. check out this thread.
https://forums.creativecow.net/readpost/98/866016?pview=t#head
hope that helps some.
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Another update. I solved the problem. Its very strange that this worked, but it seemed to do the trick. Before, I was running the audio into the mixer, and the main output of the mixer into the analogue in of the Kona. Now i send the audio signal straight into the analogue in of the Kona (bypassing the mixer) and then sending the analogue output to the mixer for monitoring. This seems to fix the problem. My audio stays in sync, and clicks and pops. I have no idea what this means, but if anyone out there was still curious its food for thought.
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does this mean did something wrong to the camera?
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Alright,
Went back through with the few tweaks I saw in your post. So just to recapturn off the knee, set the exposure to 100% IRE for white, set gamma so your cross is at 50-55% and from there go in and align the colors?
Thats what I did and I seemed to get a lot more lattitude in the highlights, the colors looked good, good skin tones.
I appreciate your help in this John, youve been a life saver.
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Hey John,
Thanks for the reply, Im following everything youre saying, as I was going through it my only question is, what is the correct exposure for the grey card? 50% IRE for the grey chip or 100% IRE for the white chip? As I was looking around I found one place that suggested 100% IRE for white yet another said 50% for the grey. I ran through the set up process as you said based on 50% IRE grey and I felt like i had to jack the matrix and CC menus up pretty high to get them into their boxes (many of the matrix and CC options were maxed out). I look at the image and the colors look good, the skin tones are nice, Im just wondering if that sounds normal, to have several of the menu items maxed out like that.
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but i didnt see a link to PM anyone, so heres the link to the first episode of the show. if you interested check it out.