Forum Replies Created
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Colin Mcquillan
October 24, 2011 at 2:54 am in reply to: How to get this smooth/crisp look with a DSLR?[Marco Falcone] “It was shot on a F3, but the main thing I noticed about this video, which is RARE to find in most (awful) DSLR films on Youtube”…
The F3 shouldn’t be confused with a DSLR. Not sure if that is what you have done here, but your sentence could be read that way. The F3 is a large sensor video camera. It’s chip is designed for video capture and doesn’t suffer from the same shortcomings of a DSLR, like moire and aliasing, It records to a better codec, has HD-SDI outputs for even better recording options, and better handles rolling shutter effects.
[Marco Falcone] “How could I get the FPS to look so crisp “
FPS = frames per second.. not sure if that is the right word/acronym you are after.
The video looks to be shot mostly on fast lens’ near wide open. On a full frame sensor you would want to shoot f5.6 or lower, or on an APS-C sensor somewhere around the f2.8 or lower range. The lower the number the softer you can throw out the background. Cheap lens’ fall short in this regard. the better the glass the wider you can get the iris, and the sharper it will be at the wider f-stops.
To get you iris nice and wide you will want to invest in some ND filters for your lens’. ND Fader filters can be nice, but I find they muddy the footage, and if zoomed in on them they can really soften your shots in a bad way.
DSLR’s can yield some amazing footage when shot right. I find they fall short on the wider landscape shots (like the long look of the lighthouse.) If there is too much going on in the frame the recording codec can fall apart a bit leaving a ‘video’ feel to the footage.
Do some research on “DSLR profiles for video” Most suggest the ‘neutral’ profile on Canon’s as a good starting point. I prefer the faithful profile in many situations.The video above looks to be shot around the golden hour (magic hour). Look that one up as well to help with planing your outdoor location shoots!
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C.“Live, love, laugh and be happy.”
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If only we all lived a little more like Lt. Drebin. (well, actually… )
Good luck! I hope you find a solution that works well for you.
The Zoom series of recorders should do what you are after. The batteries last long and with a 32 gig card you’ll be recording all day. Being detached from the ability to monitor the record just leaves more room for error than I would be comfortable with.
Best,
CColin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C.“Live, love, laugh and be happy.”
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I don’t know about the H1, but the H4N has a hold button. Even still I wouldn’t recommend the setup you are thinking of. The hold button ‘might’ prevent the person from switching it off, but they still could if they were rummaging in their pocket for what ever reason or sitting down in tight fitting pants… Set up at a podium, OK but still what if the batteries you thought were fresh aren’t fresh. You wont know until it is too late and you have no audio instead of some if you were able to see the issue as it happened and react.
Also, if there is any other issue with the mic, like clipping/over modulation, fabric rub, or some other type of interference you will have no way of knowing until it is too late. At least if you are monitoring you will know about any issues as they happen and can act accordingly IE switching to a shotgun mic quick so you can at least get some usable sound or waiting for an opportune moment to quickly address the problem…
Bottom line, if you are not actively monitoring you are taking a risk that personally I would not take.
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C.“Live, love, laugh and be happy.”
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Colin Mcquillan
October 20, 2011 at 4:06 pm in reply to: Long tracking shot with 7D – from extreme CU to wideLens selection on this really depends on how far you want to track back for. The video is heavily posted. Kanye almost looks CG.
The field of view looks to me like a 50mm (on a full frame, 35mm aps-c)
The wider you go the less you will need to track and the less trouble you will have with focus – though you will want a focus puller even if you shoot super wide 10-20mm @ f22.
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C.“Live, love, laugh and be happy.”
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I’m with Brent on this. I wouldn’t leave a recorder in someone’s pocket. You are leaving much to chance if you do. If for some reason the levels aren’t right you could be screwed – they could accidentally push a button and stop the recording. Also, I would be reluctant to strap anything more than a lav transmitter to a groom or JP. Some are smaller than others, but I wouldn’t want an H4N or the like in my pocket if I was standing at the alter!
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C.“Live, love, laugh and be happy.”
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In any case I prefer Compressor over mpeg streamclip for frame rate conversions.
What software suite / editing platform do you use?
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C.“Live, love, laugh and be happy.”
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Interesting specs. Pal is 25fps not 30.
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C.“Live, love, laugh and be happy.”
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Colin Mcquillan
October 13, 2011 at 7:38 am in reply to: How do I easily create identical “transcode” folders to my “originals” folders for 5D FootageDo you mean like a template to transcode your footage to> Make the empty folders -> then Copy -> Paste?
Not sure I see your trouble… so before you go on a shoot – you create this folder structure? Then you want to transcode your footage to said folders?
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C.“Live, love, laugh and be happy.”
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[Leon Klein] “whats the best way to avoid having to sync later?”
Unless you are OK with the auto-gain ugliness of the onboard camera input there is no way to ‘avoid’ post syncing – but there are ways to make the process less painful.
The way you are going now with the output of the H4N into the camera should give you a very similar waveform and make syncing very easy by sight.
Slate with a clap is a good way to go.
Pluraleyes / Dualeyes is decent product – and again – with the h4n feeding the camera as well I would imagine the accuracy would be spot on.Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C.“Live, love, laugh and be happy.”
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The 7D is auto-gain all the time. It doesn’t matter what you plug into it – whenever things get quiet it will boost the audio gain to get a level.
With the 7D there is currently no way to disable this in camera. There are some devices that fool the camera’s auto gain by feeding a constant tone to one channel and the mic to the other.
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C.“Live, love, laugh and be happy.”