Forum Replies Created

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  • Chris Smith

    September 4, 2006 at 5:39 am in reply to: IPod/Eminem Ad – How To?
  • Chris Smith

    September 3, 2006 at 4:18 pm in reply to: 3d arrows for robin hood

    Depends on the shot. If it’s a flat profile then it’s easier to use a still photo of an arrow and animate it. If it’s in an angled perspective but still somewhat away, you can fake 3D like the way they do trees in videogames. By taking the arrow picture and duplicating it and spinning the copies so you have an ‘X’ or ‘*’ shape.

    But if you are wanting to get close to it with any sort of perspective, then you can use the plug-in “Zaxwerks Invigorator”, or what I’d do is use a true 3D program since that is indeed what they are built for. If you use C4D, it will output the 3D camera to AE so you can lock the AE camera so when you add other elements in AE, they are locked up.

  • Chris Smith

    September 2, 2006 at 3:07 pm in reply to: film burning

    They’re on your install disk. Look under the Cycore folder. There are tons of plug-ins for you. Also in the Synthetic Aperture folder you can install Color Finesse.

    The CC (Cycore) effects are the same as the old Final Effects that used to be tons o’ money.

  • Freaking brilliant once again Mylenium. Very cool. Even though I’ve spent a good amount of time with Mograph, you have a way of clearly putting the whole process in precise terms that the manual just wouldn’t do. I learn a ton from each one. Looking forward to the next one.

  • Chris Smith

    September 1, 2006 at 7:28 pm in reply to: Too much noise when I play with saturation

    Also, it’s bad form to ever BOOST saturation despite what format you’re working with. If you want to naturally increase saturation than use the levels to add more contrast to the image and the saturation will boost on it’s own. Often times you need to pull it back a bit. Also to get rid of the yellows, you don’t want to jump to secondaries right away like you’re doing (which is grabbing a color and trying to change it).

    Use curves and drop the gamma in the red and green channel a bit to neutralize the yellows. So over all the image is balancing out. When you grab just one color and tweak it, you inherently get very unnatural looking results and should only be used to bump a color a little bit here and there. Where most color correcting should be done by swinging the blacks (shadows), gammas (mids), and Whites (highlights).

  • Chris Smith

    September 1, 2006 at 7:01 pm in reply to: AE to FCP – Data Rate Loss

    First of all I wouldn’t involve any lossy codec at all like DV. DV is really a turd format which although convenient for consumer needs is NOT something you want to use if you don’t have to. Sample in your footage with any uncompressed card like Blackmagic Decklink. Then when transferring to AE, use something like Quicktime’s Animation codec set to best settings/Millions of colors.

  • Chris Smith

    September 1, 2006 at 6:49 pm in reply to: film burning

    Depends how real you want it. If you really want it authentic (outside of making a film print and letting it sit in a projector) is to buy a stock clip of a film burn. A lot of times these will come with it’s own matte. You can use that matte not only as a track matte on your own footage, but blur it and use it as a displacement map as well so the edges distort the image as it disinigrates.

  • Man, If a plug-in existed that duplicated the effect of hundreds of man hours using many different programs and disciplines, that would put a lot of ppl out of work.

  • Chris Smith

    August 28, 2006 at 9:11 pm in reply to: Flattening CC Cylender?

    Long shot, but maybe keyframe the cylinder radius extremely large over a few keyframes while keyframing down the distance or size to compensate. I’m not in front of it so I don’t remember the parameters off hand.

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