Chris Poisson
Forum Replies Created
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Mark,
You don’t need a 4×3 project step, just send your HD project to Compressor and use a 16×9 NTSC setting, and do as Walter says in DVDSP. Click on you track and make it 16×9 in the inspector and do the same in the menu tab.
Have a wonderful day.
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Mark,
Are you trying to make this letterboxed 4×3, or anamorphic? You can do either, I make the latter all the time from HD projects, they look great.
For an anamorphic DVD which should fill a 16×9 TV, just send your HD movie to Compressor and use the anamorphic settings. In DVDSP, select 16×9 for you tracks and menu and away you go.
Otherwise, drop you 720p sequence into a 4×3 sequence in Final Cut, and then just make a disk as normal, it should look fine. Might want to mess with your data rate in Compressor depending on your content and the length. Testing for this is always worth the trouble.
Have a wonderful day.
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You don’t have to move them. Just open the original clips on you media drive in QuickTime, export them at 48k and add a 1 or something to the name. Put them in the same folder as the original. When you are done, toss all the original clips and remove the 1 from the names. FCP will link to your new 48k media.
Have a wonderful day.
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Rick,
The software you mentioned, FlixPro or whatever is the cheapest Flash encoder I know of. You may have to find a local web guy who could make your file for you.
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Nathan,
If you’re going out to a DVD, tape, or some other QuickTime or Windows format other than HDV, you will have to render at some point, also called conforming. HDV takes a notoriously long time to do this in many cases.
Many people out there capture their HDV material in another codec, often times DVDproHD. This removes the mpeg2 compression from the HDV and makes it a real 29.97 (or whatever) iFrame format. This works fine for many people, but it introduces another “render hit” to your workflow, because when you edit, add effects and go out to whatever you get another render hit.
If you feel the need to capture this way, say via component or HDMI (you will need a card for this such as a Kona of the Intensity I mentioned) I would recommend you go 8 or 10 bit uncompressed. DVCproHD doesn’t make sense to me as going to it from HDV is going from one highly compressed format to another.
If you check the archives, you will see tons of info on all of this.
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Nathan,
There is a boatload of info on this here and in the HDV forum, but the easiest and one of the best ways is to capture via FireWire as native HDV. Search the archives.
I generally use native HDV in an 8 bit or ProRes sequence, you only get one render hit, it works great.
I believe that camera has HDMI out, which you can use with a few devices, the cheapest is the BlackMagic Intensity, supposed to give great results.
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Mortimer,
There is a really really lot on this exact here and in the HDV forum. To answer your question though, the “simplest” workflow seems to be to use a sequence setting you like as far as quality and let FCP6 work the native HDV files in it. Yes, you will have to render, but in total you will only be doing this once. That is the ideal situation.
If you capture to say DVCproHD, you will be getting one hit, then when you add effects you will get another. I’m anal so I use the first method, recommended by Graeme Nattress among others.
It is also the cheapest method, as no expensive cards or boxes are needed, just FireWire.
As far as “quickest codec,” I don’t know if any are quicker to render, but you are saving a conversion step and a render, always worth it to me.
I usually work in a ProRes timeline, seems to work fine and goes out to dubs just great. 8 bit works too.
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Eric,
I use Taiyo Yuden, have not had one bad disc or client complaint in the 2 years I’ve been using them.
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Just run your master clips through the media manager, or open each one up and export as DV.
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Michelle,
Letting DVDSP do your encode is like getting your dinner at a drive up window, fast, but it sucks.
Use Compressor, or try Episode Pro, the latest v does a beautiful job.
BTW, Compressor will know if your frame rate is 24p, you don’t have to do anything to it. Compression is an art form, it may take you a few false starts to get it right for your workflow, but it’s worth it. There are a bunch of droplets around which can help with your settings, or you can just experiment.