Bouncing Account needs new email address
Forum Replies Created
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[Seth Bloombaum] ” Sony MDR-7506 is somewhat of a standard for location work.”
And for in-studio, too.
They are found just about everywhere high-quality monitor ‘phonesare needed (they seal-out ambient room-sound VERY well).https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=49510&is=REG
And I prefer these Sony’s for music over the Sennheisers as well (open-air ‘phones don’t cancel room and outdoor sound and that can be a problem in many monitoring situations).
If you can’t get the MDR-7506 model, nearly identical specs, durability and features are found on the Sony MDR-V600 found at nearly every electronics discount store for $99 (and under $75 on line).
I own several pair of each model… wouldn’t shoot without a set of either on my head.
(In fact, nobody would recognize me without those ‘phones over my ears.)They are so rugged that I am on my second set of ear-cushions (just worn from USE) on 4 pair that have had no mechanical or audio problems in hundreds of hours of use (many times outdoors) and then they just “stuffed” into my camera gadget bags.
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[Arniepix] “But you do need to log the head & tail of the tape,”
No need to do this with an Avid digitize.
This is still one big embarrassment for FCP users compared to Avid.I hope that soon FCP will be capable of truly “knowing” that the end of a reel has been reached and it will just STOP CAPTURING and WAIT until the next reel is inserted. Then auto-rewind at it starts from the head of the new reel.
The lack of reliability in doing this kind of “bulk” semi-unattended capture can be a deal-breaker for some pro users.
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Step 1: File> Export> Using QuickTime Conversion… “Save” window appears
Step 2: Format> Still Image
Step 3: Options… > Format: (choose PNG, PICT, TIFF or Photoshop) > OK
Step 4: Name your image, Set location (disk, folder, desktop) for your new still. > Save -
[robsteel] “rgb makes it look pink”
Well, THAT should not be happening.
You may have some odd issues going on with your settings or your monitoring set-up.I frequently import/export back and forth between FCP and Photoshop with no coloration issues at all.
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[Sebastian] “which I will be able to import Recorded programs into FCP HD, and edit out commercials and burn to DVD, for later watching at my leisure”
Oh, I don’t think you’ll find much out there to actually HELP you do that!
Certainly, its not going to be very FAST to accomplish.I figure it will take you about 3 hours (or more) to “convert” and burn a single 1 hour show.
First, you don’t need a VHS deck along with the DVD to do this.
But if you just WANT one, go ahead (but that will add to the cost of the set-top recorder.)Virtually ALL set-top DVD recorders have a tuner and timer for watching and/or recording Cable or TV off-air shows (like a VCR).
It costs a bit MORE to buy a DVD recorder that has a FireWire input, but that’s the way to go in this case.
1. If you record a DVD off-air, then you’ll have to “finalize” it (that step takes from 5 to 15 additional minutes some time after the actula recording is completed.)
2. Then you’d have to put the DVD in the Mac, use a separate piece of software to “suck the A/V off the DVD” and convert it to a QT file for FCP to use.
3. Then, you’ll have to FIND and edit out all of the commercials.
4. Then, you’d have to either burn an iDVD of the finished timeline inside the Mac -OR- play the timeline IN REAL-TIME out the FireWire to the FW input on the set-top DVD recorder. Then, FINALIZE the DVD in the recorder.Your other choice is to record the TV show directly into FCP using a VCR or similar tuner fed into a FW card or DV device capable of converting analog to FW in real-time.
But unless you can find suitable software that can start FCP into capture mode at the proper show start-time (and stop it as well) the DVD-recording “first step” is your best avenue.This is going to take a LOT of time for you and the computer… only YOU can decide if its worth it.
I’d pick any brand-name DVD recorder. -
[Ibon Olaskoaga] “I thought it was a problea of the Firewire drives but is not .”
How do you know?
ARE the clips on FW drives?
It could be that a specific clip (or several) coming from a very full (and/or slow) FW HD is affecting the FCP timeline’s response.You should also “Trash the FCP Preferences” and if that helps.
Click the following link for instructions on how to do this.
https://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/trashing_fcp_prefs.html
Another method is to use “FCP Rescue” a free Apple Script that will Trash the Preferences for you (and restore nearly all of your user settings afterward).
There are versions for FCP & FCE.Download these free Apple Scripts at
https://fcprescue.andersholck.com/
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You should simply not use the FCP native titlers, but instead use “Title 3D” which is a Boris product and is INCLUDED on the original FCP 4 install discs (you must CHOOSE to install these extra Titlers from the disc).
You will still need to use “Copy and Paste” from the Word document (and manually choose Boldface, etc.) but you will have much greater “control” in Title 3D compared to the native FCP titlers.
Another choice is to do several pages of credits in Photoshop and import them into FCP.
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As Walter said, no need for Compressor with this One-Hour video.
All you need to do is, in FCP, Open your edited timeline and choose:
File > Export > Quicktime Movie… > Current Settings > Audio & Video > Markers (if any) > Save.
Do NOT check the “make self-contained” (no need if you’re burning with iDVD.)After the export, drop THAT exported file onto an open iDVD menu.
Customize the menu(s) if you want.
Burn the DVD.
That’s about it.
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Well, this is kind of basic stuff.
You must have “handles” (“extra footage”) on one or both of two butted clips to allow the dissovle.So, assuming you wanted a 1 sec. transition between any given two clips:
a) you’d need at least 11 seconds length (one second of “extra footage”) on the end of the first clip OR
b) 10.5 seconds length on BOTH clips (half sec. of “extra footage”at the end of the first clip, and half sec. of “extra footage” at the beginning of the second one.
c) you could make the “In-point” several frames EARLIER in the first clip and/or make the “In-point” several frames LATER in the second clip.
-OR-
You could make a STILL-FRAME of the last frame of your first clip and dissolve THAT out for as long as you want.
-OR-
Change the SPEED of your clip(s) (slow-mo) and that will allow for a longer dissolve length.
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[Devin Terpstra] “but I think the 1202 is a line/mic mixer. The back has the same +4/Mic button as the 1402.”
Yes, if you have a 1202 “VLZ” version, it has the XLR outputs (mic or line) on the back.