Bouncing Account needs new email address
Forum Replies Created
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I’m with Jerry.
How are you CREATING “versions” of your project?
Its simple to DUPLICATE (and re-name, if you like) any project on a Mac.
If you do this, all of your elements will be there in the dupe(s).
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The first thing to always try is to Quit FCP, Restart the Mac, Open your FCP project and try again.
Then, look here:
Final Cut Pro (pulldown menu) > User Preferences > Render Control > all boxes checked and Frame Rate and Resolution at “100%”.After that, (if you still have a problem) do a Mac Search (click on the desktop and then hit apple-F) for “Render Files” and look inside for your current project’s name on a folder.
Open that particular folder and trash all the files in it.
That should force FCP to re-render EVERY render in that project.Next:
THE FOLLOWING COMES FROM THE KEN STONE WEBSITE:
“Over 5,000 years ago Confucius wrote: ‘If you are toiling away, you have changed nothing and FCP heads South on you, [starts behaving in strange ways] then it is time to trash your FCP Preferences.’ ”Click the following link for instructions.
https://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/trashing_fcp_prefs.html
A great way to do this is to use “FCP Rescue” a free Apple Script that will Trash the Preferences for you (and restore nearly all of your user settings afterward).
There are versions for FCPro & FCExpress.Download these free Apple Scripts at
https://fcprescue.andersholck.com/
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Ii I understand what you’re asking…
In the Effects Tab (above the Viewer Window)
Adjust the keyer filter settings until the “color-leaks” are reduced or eliminated. -
Process of elimination.
Since the problem coincided with the UPGRADE (you did upgrade QT, right).
Its a long-shot and a dissimilar issue, but have you tried THIS:https://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=301852
Can you indulge me on checking the Canopus as being part of the issue?
(I’m just trying to make SURE we ELIMINATE any “outside FCP” issues.)Try disconnecting from the Canopus and then plugging your FW into any camcorder that will accept a FW input (I know you’re in Europe).
See if the timing is off when viewed on the camcorder’s screen and audio.
At some point, I suppose a re-install of FCP and QT (basically, do the upgrade process again) would make sense.
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[chris] “each tape starts on a different hour… Tape 1 = 01, Tape 2 = 02 etc.”
That’s not a big deal to do with any consumer camcorder…
IF the shooter has access to another deck or camcorder that DOES have settable TC.You can just set the other DV unit for any timecode number and just record black for several seconds (or the whole tape) and then rewind and take out the tape.
Later, if you put a “pre-striped” tape in any camcorder and hit play for a second or so before starting to record on it, the camcorder will then be able to continue to record, matching the TC it first reads on the tape.BTW, “real” SMPTE TC can go as high as 23:59:59:29 before rolling back to 00:00:00.
But my research says the highest TC that the XL1(s) can use is 5:59:59:29.
I don’t know if it can READ any higher, but I don’t think it can GENERATE (or re-generate) any higher. -
Many of us use Panasonic LinearPlus tapes (the lowest-priced mDV tapes that Panny makes).
I have shot literally HUNDREDS of these without ANY problems at all in my Sony PD150 lots of decks at locations where I freelance.
I also use them in my Canon GL-1.There are many good tape sellers on-line.
Google for their names and find the price you like.But as another option, I go to eBay to buy miniDV stock, in-quantity, for around $2.50 per tape.
The more you buy at once, the less the postage will average per tape.Here’s a link or two just to demo what I mean (I do not know these sellers).
And there are many more.
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[klaus] “I have tried this but experienced problems with distortion. I think it is to do with running a line source into a mic. I think I need some sort of attenuator.”
There’s no doubt that connecting a LINE output into a MIC input is a very bad idea.
A “Line Level-to-Mic Level Attenuator” (aka a PAD) is just what you need under these conditions.
Here’s a link to an ADJUSTABLE in-line pad that would be very helpful:https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=68600&is=REG
Of course, many audio boards have MIC LEVEL outputs available as well as LINE LEVEL so if you’d connect to the mic level outputs you would not need a pad.
If you’re talking about connecting to an audio board that’s being operated LIVE by a DJ or MC, then you’d be miles ahead if you can get the operator to help you connect and do a few LEVEL TESTS before everything starts for real.
Many times the operator can feed your wireless (or direct cable) by a mixer output that has its own individual level control.
If so, and the DJ doesn’t mind, YOU (or the DJ) can go to the board and tweak that knob that’s sending your feed and you can fine-tune it as the night goes on. -
In order to make SURE that you do, in fact, have an A/V sync “problem” try this.
Open a new project (call it “Test” or similar).
In the Viewer choose Bars & Tone.
Set B&T to be one frame long.Edit a frame of B&T to the timeline, jump forward 15 frames…
Edit a frame of B&T to the timeline, jump forward 15 frames…
Edit a frame of B&T to the timeline, jump forward 15 frames…
Edit a frame of B&T to the timeline, jump forward 15 frames…Repeat this until you have several seconds worth of 1-frame edits with 15 frames of black in-between.
Then Save the project.
Set “External Video-All Frames”
Now play the timeline and observe if the Audio and Video are in sync on your external monitor and speakers.Then set “External Video-OFF”
Now play the timeline and observe if the Audio and Video are in sync on your Mac monitor and Mac internal audio.I don’t know if its POSSIBLE, but you MIGHT have a problem with your Canopus Converter.
Try unplugging it from the wall and let it “cool down” for a few minutes, then re-plug it and test again. -
[Walter Biscardi] “Nope, it comes into play with all settings.”
Sorry, but this is just not the case on my systems that just use the FW sent to a DV deck for external A/V monitoring.
Maybe with your Kona card it works differently, but here, the only effect that the delay has is so I can sync the Canvas monitor to the same timing as my EXTERNAL audio and video monitor.
I checked this with a series of 1-frame cuts of Bars & Tone.
I adjusted the timing until the Canvas and the External “poped” at the same time (5 was my magic number).BUT, no matter how far off I set the delay, it has NO EFFECT on the timing/sync when:
A. I am ONLY judging the EXTERNAL A/V together (they STAY locked, regardless of the setting).
B. I am ONLY judging the COMPUTER Canvas and Mac internal audio together (they STAY locked, regardless of the setting).Again, It DOES only affect the timing of the Canvas sync in relation to the External monitor.
(I guess you could check this on your end by making a quick hook-up to a camcorder via FW.)And I’ll bet that’s why iMan can’t “fix” his problem with this setting.
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Yes.
And because just looking at a “regular” video image, its hard to find fault with DV.
When you start adding small graphics and looking at tiny image details, the DV starts losing points to 8 bit..