Bob Peterson
Forum Replies Created
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I usually reduce the photos to about twice the resolution of the final DVD. This allows a bit of zooming without excessive pixelation. I also save the photos in PNG format since I think Vegas has an easier time with the PNG format. If you are seeing image problems such as blurring in preview, don’t be too concerned unless you are using Best, Full for your preview mode. Preview, Auto and other preview settings are not attempting to show you fine details because they are trying to maintain a decent preview speed or frame rate. I always render using the Best setting as John says.
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I essentially do the same thing as Aaron, but there are key differences. I make copies of the camera video tracks, and use the copies to make a multi-camera track. I find it much easier to find the best cut spots by looking at the multi-camera preview screen. Once those spots are located, I use them to set markers on a composite envelope for the top track. The composite envelope is then used to make the “cuts” by varying the comosite level from 0% to 100%. The “cut” can be sharp or gradual, and it can be moved and adjusted later as much as I like. I do not split the camera tracks to make a cut. Once the composite envelope is finished, I delete the multi-camera track.
If there are three cameras, then the top two camera tracks get composite envelopes.
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I used to back up to DVDs and/or tape, but I don’t do that any more. I now use two external drives. One has all the files that were used in the project. The other has all of the files except for the media files originally generated by the camera. I do not save the media files on the second drive because I do not want use the space, and the likelihood that I will need to redo the render is extremely low.
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You should provide a whole lot more explanation to get help. For example, have you placed the images on your timeline and positioned the cursor over the image?
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The laptop most likely has the ability to shut down before it gets hot enough to damage itself. My daughter has a Toshiba laptop that gradually built up dust and would overheat while she was playing World of Warcraft. It would simply shut down, and that told her that it had overheated. It would start again just fine with no evidence of any lasting damage.
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Not really. I think a cookie cutter is fixed in place unless you use a lot keyframes to keep it positioned over the area of the video that you want to effect.
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You can undo it by deleting the control from the Fx for the track. If you want to transfer its settings to a clip, you can save the settings before you delete the control. Then, add the control to the clip, and reload the settings which you had saved.
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You probably added the control to the track rather than to the clip.
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Since you want to brighten dark spots, I think you want to use color curves. Curves allow you to limit your adjustment to a particular tonal range. You can add nodes on a color curve simply by double clicking. A node will allow you to select a range of tones to be brightened or darkened. Additional nodes will allow you to reduce or eliminate the changes applied to other tones on the scale. The brightness/contrast control does not have this ability and tends to add grain very quickly.
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Try backing it up before you replace it. Also, some drives come with software which copies the current system drive before the new drive gets installed. This was the case when I recently upgraded the SSD that is my system drive.