[Bob Cole]

Not only did I close, restart, re-open AE, but I tried two different versions of AE with the same result.

[Bob Cole]

Thanks. I should have said that I was looking for a daylight balanced keylight I could fly on a boom, on the order of a 1000 watt tungsten equivalent. This is for two-person interviews.

Bob C

[Bob Cole]

First: Thanks for the many great insights into LED lights.

Second: I’m most interested in fixtures that are extremely light-weight, to make it easier to “fly” them at the ends of a boom.

Third: I’m still leery of the CRI issues, as well as “drift” over time. Has anyone tried the cheaper units available from B&H? e.g. Generay, Ikan, Dracast, Flolight.

Bob C

[Bob Cole]

Hey, THANK YOU. That is one of the most enjoyable videos of the year – maybe #1. What great work.

Bob C

[Bob Cole]

I haven’t bought one yet, but the Atomos seems the likeliest bet.

I decided to wait until buying a new camera, as that will influence the decision as to which item to buy, or whether to buy one at all.

Thanks for asking.

Bob C

[Bob Cole]

Thanks Bill. Care to be specific about the inexpensive yet effective LEDs you’re using?

I don’t quite follow what you’re saying about light modifiers. What exactly are you talking about, and why should that change, even if the source of the light does?

Bob C

[Bob Cole]

Thanks!

Related question: File/Project Settings/Auto Save gives several options:

– Off
– On
– To Backup Project

What are the relative advantages and disadvantages of “On” vs. “To Backup Project”?

[Bob Cole]

[Erik Anschicks] “the price of excellent daylight LED “

What’s excellent? I’d be interested in peoples’ experience with the large variety of LEDs now.

LEDs seem particularly difficult to evaluate: CRI figures are very suspect (aren’t they just supplied by the manufacturer?), and component quality and durability are impossible to judge. I can tell which ones have plastic housings on the outside, but I can’t tell who has better quality control over the solder joints and the capacitors on the circuit boards inside.

The prices of LEDs are all over the map, and I’m not sure that higher-priced necessarily means better quality. A thorough-going “shoot-out” of LEDs would be a great topic for one of the trades.

Tungsten is going out, but there’s something to be said for the simplicity of screwing a light bulb into a socket that is wired to a wall outlet.

Thanks very much for the feedback.

Bob C

[Bob Cole]

[Erik Anschicks] “Which units do you have in mind?”

For local shoots I use a Diva, fresnels (Mole and Pepper), various Chimeras, & Source 4.

Travel: the fresnels, Chimeras. I use D-lights and Tota-lights for the Chimeras; I really like Tota’s for travel: cheap, small, and I have enough that I can just swap them out if a bulb goes in the middle of a shoot.

I have had good luck shipping the Diva, but I’ve only done it when I could afford a huge, heavily-padded case.

Thanks Terry, Mark, Erik. I was very interested in all the responses. The weakness in my travel kit is anything daylight. So I’m very interested in the suggestion of LEDs, though the tough ones seem expensive.

Thanks again!

Bob C

[Bob Cole]

Do you ever get the idea that people don’t know that this forum is for professionals in the film/video lighting community?

Bob C