Blaise Douros
Forum Replies Created
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This is exactly what Mocha is designed for. But you can’t do it with a global planar track–you’ll need to do a separate track for each moving element that you’d like to track separately. For example, let’s say one for the whole cheek surface plus one for the top of the cheekbones; they will move differently, so it’ll be a different surface track for each one so that you get texture movement that matches that surface’s motion more locally.
As for order of color vs texture, you’re just going to have to mess with it. I would put money on the best way being to precompose the color with the texture, with the crackle texture on the top layer of the precomp using blending modes and opacity to find a realistic balance. Once you figure out your preset for the first one, apply the same setup to each section.
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Canon will tell you that only 1st party lenses will be fully supported by their camera bodies. If 3rd party manufacturers fail to get their lenses compatible, that’s on the 3rd party, not Canon–they are under no obligation to support their competition!
Call Tamron. Maybe there’s a firmware upgrade.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDYv5UjbJbA
Watch this. It uses your exact scenario as the tutorial test case.
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Leave it to this forum to invent solutions this crazy ☺
Adam, is it possible to get your camera farther back away from your subject? You may be able to solve this with simple light physics: move the camera farther away, and zoom in so that the overall FOV is narrowed, giving you more leeway to place the monitor. Tilting the light board just a couple of degrees would help, too; the direction would depend on whether you wanted it above or below the camera. I’d tilt it toward the presenter a bit, and put the monitor just below the camera’s FOV. Easier than hanging it above.
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Warren’s right–if you can, go someplace and test them out, or rent them, if you’re super worried about it.
Distortion and vignetting come with the territory with ultrawides–it’s part of the charm. I’ve shot professional timelapse work on the Samyang (or rather, the rebadged Bower version, it’s the same glass inside). Nobody complained.
You say you’re just getting into paid gigs–unless you’re shooting wide open and delivering to IMAX, it’s likely that the issues you’re worried about won’t make a difference. Stop the lens down a little, and go do some work! Cheap, good-enough tools are great because you can make money on them long enough to buy better ones, and not cry about the sunk cost.
Without having used the Tokina, I can’t comment on it. The Samyang/Bower is fine–perfectly usable. However, Tokina products are great! I would buy one of their lenses without hesitation if it filled a niche that i needed filled.
Ultimately, lots of people overthink this stuff; every piece of equipment has limitations, and learning to navigate the tools in order to get your work done is a big part of this industry.
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Just make sure the whip pan that they do on set is really fast so it introduces lots of motion blur, then crossfade on the blurry portion. Red Giant also has a Whip Pan transition effect in one of their packages that works pretty well. You could combine it with the physical transition to good effect.
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Yes, I believe so, though I’ve never found it necessary; this allows you to output signal to both an external recorder and a director monitor.
Just to be safe, in case you got to set and it wasn’t working, pick up a Blackmagic SDI-to-HDMI micro converter for $60. It has an SDI loop out as well as the HDMI output, effectively acting as a splitter.
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I have one other suggestion; if you have an existing decent video camera, you could pursue one of the solutions listed here: https://filmora.wondershare.com/webcam-recording/use-dslr-camera-as-webcam.html
The CamLink seems particularly affordable.
You’ll get much nicer results if you use a real camera, and convert the HDMI signal via the CamLink.
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Just buy a labelmaker and label them: 001, 002, 003…
I don’t think a serial will help you even in the event of theft–the cops would laugh at you if you tried to get them to recover an SD card! Just record your label number, brand name, and card size.
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Try switching to Software Only rendering–sometimes the video card gets a little screwy.