Arthur Lunn
Forum Replies Created
-
I agree it’s overused, but when used in moderation, I think it could still be effective. Thanks all for your feedback.
-
If you want a film look, it is pretty much a given that you need to get post color-grading software such as magic bullet that will replicate the warmth that you get on film (although not 100%)
The one thing that stands out in terms of getting that film look, more than anything else is the shallow DOF, and a 50mm lens will do that nicely. It is hard to get shallow DOF on a zoom lens and you would need to leave the aperture wide open and dial down the ISO to compensate. Also keep the shutter speed as low as you can to avoid that strobing look (in favor of blurring).
-
Thanks David.
I will be importing sound separately, as it will be recorded independently as was advised for shooting with the D7.
-
I really would like to avoid updating either FCP or OS because I am in the middle of a very large project (feature film). Is there a way to reset the 20 (e.g., preferences if there is such a thing?).
-
FCP 5.1.4
OSX 10.4.11
-
Thanks everyone for the great advices. This confirmed my initial suspicions that the in/out was not recognized when trying to export audio.
I figured out a trick to export OMF in chunks. I opened a temporary timeline (new project) and copied and pasted to it until I had the 10 minute I needed, then I exported to OMF and closed project without saving and that worked.
Again thanks!
-
The best way to get the most out of FCP is to not be afraid to play around with it, and I mean inside fcp, not fiddling around with the external settings- if you are not comfortable with FCP at this point, I suggest cutting stock media that you can afford to lose, if something happens. As you become more comfortable with the workflow, you can start ingesting more valuable footage.
You are already in one of, if not the best forum for asking questions about FCP. I have had 99.9 % of my questions answered and my problems solved here on this forum over the years.
-
yes it’s out of alignment, it’s way off. I know on some models you can close the focus then manually zoom back and readjust the focus ring. Is there no way to do this with the HVX-200?
-
If you are going to end up with SD DVD why are you editing in 1080i timeline? Why not export 1080 file as Quicktime file (not compressed) and import as FILE to 720 timeline or lower format? Double click 1080 QT back into viewer and you should be able to zoom in many times over without losing res, especially when you want to rotate in the timeline (which is my understanding). 1080 files show up as 66% in the 720 timeline and you can zoom in up to 100-120% without losing too much clarity..
-
James,
You will have import>p2 under your import options, if you have at least FCP 5.1.4
Also be sure your capture scratch is set to the ext HD, NOT the desktop or Mac HD.
I very strongly suggest that you get another hard drive for archiving p2 footage because you never know when you might have to go back to the raw footage to get something.
Archiving is easy, just drag and drop contents from p2 card into it’s own folder (e.g, “card 1 beach shoots”). NEVER forget to include the .txt file!
Also 60GB HD is too small for P2 cards archiving or storage.. you would only have room for a couple cards worth of footage. You should get at least a 250 or 500GB. Western Digital is ideal and the cost is reasonable.