[Anthony Popolo]

Thanks so much for your thorough input Mark! I probably won’t go down the Blu-ray path since that will only delay the inevitable when Blu-ray becomes less desirable. The ultimate goal is to meet the growing expectation of on-line or computer based distribution. Ironically, it will probably be a while before I discontinue DVD since there is still a feeling of “ownership” with a physical product (and kids like to see their tiny thumbnail on the back cover of the case!)
I agree a business model change is in order. Fortunately, I have a good relationship with all of my clients, so my plan is to structure in a way that benefits all, and I feel they will work with me. Most of my clients are private institutions, and I already have agreements in place that they assume the risk. I most certainly will have to revisit that and probably update that understanding to reflect the new format. I know there are a lot of small companies like mine that are facing the same issue. Your input will give me a great start in moving forward. I will be sure to share my process when it becomes one!
Thanks again

Anthony Popolo
Sunnyside Entertainment

[Anthony Popolo]

Thanks. I’ve been back and forth with the Livestream guys and they finally came to the conclusion that this unit might not be best for IMAG. :/
I’ve gotten the latency down to about 7 frames (30p environment), which is close to a quarter second. Not acceptable for IMAG. Thanks for your confirmation.
Anthony

Anthony Popolo
Sunnyside Entertainment

[Anthony Popolo]

Thanks guys. I ran a test and it looks like the delay is on the input side of the switcher (almost a quarter of a second)! That was not even taking into consideration syncing other cameras or the output through projector. So yeah, it looks like this unit really isn’t designed for live-live. I will check out the others you recommended. Thanks!
A

Anthony Popolo
Sunnyside Entertainment

[Anthony Popolo]

Clarification:
I may have mis-used the word “latency”. I know it is generally applied to AUDIO, but my issue is with the VIDEO delay. The audio is live through a PA system so there is no delay in the audio delivery. Thanks

Anthony Popolo
Sunnyside Entertainment

[Anthony Popolo]

I have done lots of dance recitals (JVC 700, Canon Lens, varizoom focus cable controller, varizoom wired zoom controller) and generally agree with Mike and Paolo. I have never worked with the Fujinon lens, but I’m assuming it’s the same as the Canon as far as controls go (manual focus ring only, controllable zoom, auto exposure option). Do the back focus adjust correctly (in a controlled environment, not the day of the show. Find the correct method online if you’re not sure. I made a homemade “pinwheel” chart to help me). Do it one time then generally you will never mess with it again. During filming, I have two suggestions depending on the type of filming you are doing.
1) If you generally stay wide to cover all the dancers: When you set up, using the onscreen focus assist, set the focus to the the upstage/downstage area where most of the dancers will be and don’t mess with it. I do two-camera shoots for later editing. One captures the wide and one closeups. When I set the wide focus, I actually gaff tape it in place the whole show. I use my pinwheel chart to help the initial focus. DO NOT rely on the focus assist when you are in wide angle! Closeup only! Those colored highlights are useless at wide angle and are even pretty useless at mid angle!
2). Now, for the closeups (BTW for dances, my closeup is never closer than a full body height. After all it’s about the dance, not the face). I do keep my hand on my focus controller and the focus assist screen turned ON the whole show. I work the focus using the FA highlight, but generally only change it when the dancers are moving upstage or downstage . When the move left to right, I usually don’t mess with it (yes, left to right movement changes distance to camera, so I may nudge it, but not often). Mike is correct in that the focus assist adjustment will end up on the recording, but if you are subtle and know which direction to turn when the dancers go up/downstage, you can minimize that distraction. (I confess that most of my closeup focus adjusting gets edited out when I cut to the wide angle in a two camera shoot, but I do a lot of single camera live performances and manage it okay).
However, I disagree with Mike that the iris opens all the way using the FA (at least with the canon lens). The focus assist on my camera just changes the LCD viewfinder to BW with the edge colors. It does nothing to the lens itself. I would think it’s a viewfinder option, regardless of lens (but I may be wrong here). I don’t know if the fujinon lens has a focus assist selection on the lens itself, but I am talking about the focus assist button on the camera that changes the viewfinder only. The canon lens does not have any focus assist option on the lens itself.
Now, while we are on the topic of iris…Remember, with all other things equal, that the wider the iris (aperture), the more shallow the depth of field (great for cinema, sucky for unpredictable action like dance). That means when your aperture is wide open, the subject will lose focus easier from upstage to downstage. Here’s where you can play with the shutter speed. Generally, I shoot with a 1/60 shutter speed to get sharper movement and let the camera set the aperture to get the correct exposure (It also lets me get some decent screen capture stills). But unless the stage is lit very brightly, my camera spends a lot of time with the aperture wide open (the onscreen display says “open”). This makes that on-the-fly focus adjustment a bit of a full time workout since the depth of field is shallow. Now if I change my shutter speed to 1/30, the camera gets more light so I don’t live in wide open aperture as much. It’s amazing how much more depth of field you get with just an f-stop stop or two. Of course the trade off is a little more motion blur (which ironically can give the feeling of soft focus).
Anyway, I hope some of this helps!
Anthony

Anthony Popolo
Sunnyside Entertainment

[Anthony Popolo]

Hmm. Not sure. It sounds like you got the procedure right (most of it is just to get you to that advanced function). Just a couple of dummy checks here…You said you started at 720 60, that was HQ, correct? Also… When you get to the “pixel compensation” menu item, the “cancel” is blinking. Did you change it to “execute” (by pressing left/right or up/down arrow)? Once execute is blinking then press the center button. It should begin executing for a few seconds (the message “executing” appears), before the “complete…turn camera off..” message appears. I’ve never seen the “error” appear. Sorry I couldn’t be more help. It may be worth tracking down a JVC service engineer for possible online help.
-Anthony

Anthony Popolo
Sunnyside Entertainment

[Anthony Popolo]

Problem solved, finally. Just a final update:
After repairing permissions (Disc Utility and Disc Warrior), trashing preferences, and even after uninstalling and reinstalling entire FCP Studio, problem persisted. Then, I started seeing file save errors within FCP (“i/o error”). Turns out my hard drive which housed the FCP project files was slowly failing over time (not enough to reveal major issues or be noticed by warrior). This was apparently randomly corrupting my FCP files, specifically things related to exporting through Compressor). Prior to replacing the HD, I copied a bunch of folders to another drive and during the process found a number of corrupted files.
I have since replaced the hard drive and all my NEW projects appear to process perfectly fine. Of course, all my previous projects are now suspect since damage to them has apparently been done (I tried to reprocess a previous problem project, and it is in fact still bad).
Anyway, thanks for your help!
Anthony

Anthony Popolo
Sunnyside Entertainment

[Anthony Popolo]

Thanks for pointing me the right direction. (My Disk Warrior is in process for the permissions). Thanks.

Anthony Popolo
Sunnyside Entertainment

[Anthony Popolo]

Thanks Dave. The restart didn’t help. I’m embarrassed to admit, I’ve never repaired permissions or trashed preferences before, so I’m not exactly sure how to do it. Can you point me to a step by step guide? I do have Warrior and will do that. Thanks

Anthony Popolo
Sunnyside Entertainment

[Anthony Popolo]

Hi Phillip,
Here you go… You may want to print this out and keep it in your camera case for future reference. I’ve had to do it every six months or so. BTW, a good way to periodically check for dead pixels is to put the camera in focus assist mode, and turn off all the monitor displays(!) and pan the camera a little and they will jump out.

Here’s the procedure for the 700…

-Set the camera to 720 60p HQ
-Turn the camera off
-While holding down the display button turn the camera on
-Press the Menu button while pressing the Focus Assist button (the FA button on the side, not on the handle)
-Advanced Menu will be displayed
-Select the Advanced Function Menu and then push the Set button
-Select Pixel Compensation and push the Set button
-Change the parameter to Execute (it will be blinking “cancel”, use the right arrow to change it to “execute”), then push the Set button
-Pixel Compen Executing will appear
-Pixel Compen End will appear
-Reboot operation is required to reflect the pixel compensation data

That’s it. Good luck!

Anthony Popolo
Sunnyside Entertainment