Alan Lloyd
Forum Replies Created
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Great advice.
Thanks.
Will speeding it up have the same look as time lapse?
Yes.
I like your Onlocation idea. I have a MacBook with it already loaded. My problem might be the laptop battery. I don’t think it will last long enough. Any ideas on that? Also I’ve never used on location, is it easy enough to learn in a couple days?
No line power there?
You’re not doing this tonight, I hope. (grin)
Experiment with it. It’s pretty straightforward, and has worked well for me in multiple settings.
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Mark – I don’t think 3M sells such things directly to end users. They – like most major manufacturers – will generally want someone in that position to go through their normal reseller channels.
That said, it is the stuff in question, and someone must sell it. Though I question how much less expensive it’s going to be. Microbead manufacture, though an established technology by now, is still far from a trivial undertaking.
As a sidebar, the first time I saw this was as a process shot rig using 16mm film in Chicago back in (I think) the late 70’s. And I have a client with two of the rigs today.
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Instead of exporting every 6th frame, why not set the speed to 500%? If you’re in NTSC-world, it amounts to the same thing, with a lot less work. Render as either an uncompressed file or an image sequence and then you can do whatever you want with it.
I’ve done speedups like that and they work just fine.
Otherwise, if you can spare a laptop (or desktop) and install OnLocation on it, you have the option of time-lapse presets available, and can walk away with a recorded time-lapse sequence on a drive.
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Are you going directly into Encore from Premiere?
Have you tried rendering the AVI file and saving it, then importing it into Encore as an asset, and dragging it to become a timeline?
You really have not told me that much about your workflow, so I’m guessing at things here…
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Yes.
What else is running? What are you trying to output?
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Try exporting using a different filename. I’ve seen this a few times, and that seems to solve it.
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Like anything under fluoros, really. With the RGB “paint pots” on the side you can dial in a look and save it as a scene file.
Your problem is the light sources, and the fact that it’s all top-down light, not the camera.
It will do as well as anything under the circumstances.
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What you have is essentially an HC-400 in a one-piece DVCAM configuration. The Ikegami HC-400 was the industrial flavor of the broadcast model HL-45, which I once owned.
It was a very nice camera – maybe better quality for the price than anything else.
Ikegami renders skin tones very nicely, has the ability to set looks (scene files) and handles fine detail very nicely without some of the over-sharpening/edge processing some other SD cameras did.
Did you get the owner’s handbook with it? Despite some…interesting…translations, there’s a lot of good stuff in there, as well as in the camera.
From what I remember (it’s been years) the “soft detail” menu item needs to be set to “on”, and this will yield a sharp, clean image without the above-mentioned edge over-enhancement.
Put good glass on it and you’ll have very nice SD images.
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His questions are six hours apart.
This could have been done as a practical effect several times already.
I like using computers as much as the next guy. They’re great tools. So are bread knives – which one will work better slicing a multigrain loaf?
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I think I caught a bit of feedback in the opening guitar part…