Adrian Chircu
Forum Replies Created
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BUMPPPP!!!!
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BUMP!!!!!!
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I gave it a couple of tries with some tuts on YT. Managed to stick a piano to the ground and then key out the green screen and it looked.. well, weird.
The piano placement was correct though and the scene was correct in terms of compositing, the looks however were horrible. I`ve tried to color correct, shadows, level, etc, basically the whole package. It did turn out better but still not on the level I want it to be.
Now, I don`t want to make another thread so Im just gonna ask this here, please read everything, it would help a lot!
What would you do if you had to add background to your shot and also a fake piano? I thought of two options, the first is to actually work with 3D objects and the second is to work only with 2D objects, meaning that I would render the image of the piano and the background rotated according to the live footage camera`s position so it matches the scene.
ALSO, what would you do if you had to choose between zooming in the actor while filming, thus having camera movement and requiring tracking OR have the camera on a tripod and zoom in post losing quality as you zoom closer, what would you choose?
ALSO, this is the last also, I promise. I have to add flames that stick to the piano`s legs and that eventually grow bigger up until the point where the whole piano is covered in flames, OBVIOUSLY this is going to require a lot more work, because the flames add lighting to the background and they should actually BURN the piano and not just “hover” it making it totally unrealistic. What do you think would be the best approach to this? Do you think its worth as a total to add flames? What other visual effect to add intensity would you add that might be actually easier?
Thank you!
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Well, for normal videos, I guess 30p FULL HD is enough, this camera does ok in FULL HD so HD is below the OK point, at least for me, especially in low light.
As from my tests above, 60i still works a hell of a lot better than 30p when doing slow mo. The only thing I do not understand is why is there a crop on my image when shooting in 60i AND why is there quite a decrease in brightness when shooting 60i?! The Nikon website does not explain this and I cannot find information about the cropping and the low light in 60i anywhere on the net…
Can someone please explain? Thanks a lot!
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Uhmm, sorry I dont think I follow. You`re saying Im shooting indeed interlace to save file size.
“And it appears you can shoot at the frame rate you want, too.” I`m not sure that`s right. I cant shoot FULL HD at 60 REAL frames per second so thats a hugeeee bummer sadly.
What about the crop size for the 60i? Why is that happening?
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I dont really care about the blur, the color corr. or the noises. I`d like you to explain to me if you`d be so nice those “sequencial cuts” and the “two subject poses that end up matching into the final shot”.
I`m also quite intrigued by the “light leaks” thing. I guess I know what you`re talking about but at the same time I feel like I have the wrong idea in my head of what you ACTUALLY mean by that.
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It indeed shoots h.264 but everyone kept saying its interlaced. Here it is on their website.
https://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/d5200/spec.htm
If you look at the frame size section on that website it says:
1920 x 1080, 60i (59.94 fields/s)/50i (50 fields/s)*, ★ high/normal
1920 x 1080, 30p (progressive)/25p/24p, ★ high/normal
1280 x 720, 60p/50p, ★ high/normal
640 x 424, 30p/25p, ★ high/normal
Frame rates of 30p (actual frame rate 29.97 fps), 60i, and 60p (actual frame rate 59.94 fps) are available when NTSC is selected for video mode; 25p, 50i, and 50p are available when PAL is selected for video mode; actual frame rate when 24p is selected is 23.976 fps
*Sensor output is about 60 or 50 fps
Note: A smaller crop is used for movies with a frame size/frame rate of 1920 x 1080 60i or 50iCan someone explain WHY a smaller crop is used for movies when using the 60i? I`m really curious as I`ve noticed myself that when usign 60i it crops the image but when using 30p it doesnt. So whats the deal?
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I`ve tried different blend modes, but couldnt come close to his video in terms of realism. It looks like its STUCK to my body, it`s actually more like this video when I use different blend modes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-rQZ6IGhCM
The effect that I get with certain blend modes is something like that video which starts at 00:54. It looks stuck to me and really weird. I`m sadly after something more realistic.
If anyone knows a better way or maybe I just didnt chose the right blending mode with the right settings.
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Im not interested in the lightning or I think you missed the part which I`m only interested in and that is the projection part of the video at 1:09 time in the video.
The part when another video is played on the guy singing and it gives it a really nice melancholic effect. That`s what I`m interested in. The green screen was just so that it would look closer to his effect since I do not have a projector to project films on me and film it like he does, and instead of the green screen I would put some black/gray background to maybe apply some kind of effect so that it looks like his and then apply the same effect on the rotoscoped version of me so I can distance myself a little from the green screen, like it would happen if I had a projector.
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So basically what you`re saying is that they shot the actor in front of a Green Screen then drew over the actual person to give it this artwork effect and the rest was drawn as stills and they used effects to make them kind of move and give them that frame by frame animation look right?
Got it, is there anything that could be done to resemble this artwork thing but less drawing or no drawing at all?
ALSO: I was thinking about shooting video with a lower frame rate and make it look like like pictures and then attempt to draw over the actor but I dont know how to reduce the frame rate from 30frames per second my camera is shooting to something like 10 frames per second or even 8 so that it gives like a stuttering effect.