Aaron Zander
Forum Replies Created
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Well found the issue, there was an odd proxy setting, not sure why I didn’t check that out fully but that was indeed it.
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also think of it this way when it comes to render time, i used to have an invoiced job which was all hourly and i explained rendering to them (they weren’t computer savy) the guy had a previous company that did helicopter work on features
he had air hours, ie hours he was in the air using the chopper and the gass
and he had standby hours, time he and his chopper were being used but weren’t expending gass or flying through the skies.so basicly your either working you butt off behind the computer, or rendering on it, since the rendering isn’t using your talent, just your hardware you could in theory charge a standby rate.
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it was passsed on to us second or third hand so no purchasing records
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the best way would be to make a prop beer can, and shoot the shot twice
once with your actor doing what ever un manly thing he would be doing, than a second with the large prop can falling. than add them together using masks and ther you go -
who said americans can do it better?
damn good job an inspiration to every up and coming fx team
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masks are good, but it really is alot about what you are shooting.
Pre planning for this helps a lot, and you can cheat a lot too. Dolly past a flag, or start from behind one, it lets you fudge your masking, and if your focus is several feet off, ad the flag is right there, it creats a soft black edge
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I’m not saying focus will be off, because what u see on your monitor is what you ARE seeing on a hd camera, (or dv for that matter)
What I’m saying is that if you have a lens, say a panavision (love their glass btw, if you want some fun go shoot some stills with their prime’s it’s amazingly crisp) that is supposed to be putting an image the size of a piece of 35mm film on an exact plane, and you are instead putting it onto a ground glass, and then translating that onto the film, you will then have image distortion. A good way to see this is grab the demo of Monet from Imagineersystems.com, it has a lens aberration calculation in it, that allows you to map out straight lines in a shot and see the distortion, makes for great compositing, and also shows you whats going on in your lens. Often times you end up with an odd bit of abberation on the edges and in the center of your image causing a slight warp. Now with the high end adapters, it’s not there pretty much at all, but the lower end stuff you get this effect a lot more.
It’s not really noticeable to the naked eye, and for the most part it’s out of tv safe, and no one will ever see it, but I’ve seen it enough using good glass on say red rocks, and lower end 35 adapters, to know it’s there.
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[Todd at Fantastic Plastic] “[aaron zander] “the lens on the camera isn’t putting the image at the exact point it was manufactured to put it.”
Ummm… not sure what you mean there. In my particular setup the image is most definitely being put at the exact point that the cine lens was manufactured for. “
sorry, heres what i mean.
A lens is made to put an image exactly on a film plane. And by exactly, i mean to the nanometer now-a-days. These devices are SO precisely calibrated to do that, putting anything in there is just throwing off the image, in the same way breathing film would. Not in the sense that your image will be breathing, but the defocusing/soft image effect when your film is say, pushed forward a bit too much, or if you have a CCD in need of back focus calibration. It’s not to say it’s throwing everything out of whack. It’s more like driving a race car, and having some of your steering linkage miss calibrated, so on a straight your wheel is just so ever slightly turned say, left to compensate. Sure the car still drives, but not as precisely as it could be driving. This causes a warp in your DoF Calculations, can create some funky results in cropping with odd lenses like fisheyes, or gigantic telephoto’s. Now not every one uses these, but it’s something that can happen.
And As far as DOF adapter we were using, I can’t even recall, I’ve used literally a dozen completely different set ups. My friend went through three before he got rid of his HVX for a red.
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first time posting in this forum, and let’s get this straight I’m a post guy, but before that, I was a Photographer, an experimental one at that, So i know some things about lenses.
but what are you tossing this on, you say a film out, but are you going from HD, something like an HVX?
I’ve seen A LOT, and i do mean that. Like hundreds of hours of hvx/hdx footage, been on set and messed with these things too.
Yes they add amazing DoF, but they DO add a lot of grain. to the point of issues with chroma keying in several incidents. Part of the problem is adding a length after your lens, and what ever any one says about back focus, the lens on the camera isn’t putting the image at the exact point it was manufactured to put it.
Any one whose taken basic physics will tell you the more objects light passes through the darker the light. And with the lower end, like the red rocks etc (less so on the psT) it’s pretty severe. So much so that I’ve shot wide open an entire shoot running a FULL grip truck. low light ADDS grain. So if you are using a lowend/home brew version good glass will help, but these issues are all things that cause grain.
Adding length to a lens further distends the light, further creating a darker image. Not to mention the ground glass which is made to ‘distort’ the image.
All of these factors add up to noise on a ccd. Whats really interesting is tossing a adapter on say an SI camera, something that is nearly grainless, and seeing what it does. it does add grain in a filmic way, but it adds noise too. I had a test clip shot on a set with the exact same camera and lens set up matched frame for frame, the amaount of actual noise on the 1080p image is rather astonishing.
A lot of it is just adding something in between 2 perfectly calibrated pieces of tech. 2 items which are never identicle to any 2 others, though still being calibrated perfectly to work together, so adding something (say a psT) is just adding so many variables into an equation thats already full of them.
In short, there will be a noise difference between a normal hd transfer, and one with a GG adapter. that amount really depends on your ccd, your camera, the adapter, the glass, and about a dozen other things.
the best way to know if it will effect you is to try it.
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I see your ssd sing drive, and give you a beast that out performs it’s raid controller card.
https://www.nextlevelhardware.com/storage/battleship/
who wants to buy me one