Michael Slowe
Forum Replies Created
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Eric, I do appreciate that I went a bit off thread considering your original post. As regards actually enabling people to see your film I still can only think of two types of media, DVD and BD. Some broadcasters ask for files on a drive, that’s fine, but when it comes to selling copies they use DVD or BD. One channel here in the UK wanted a DVCAM tape, but that was a couple of years go! I get requests for films that I’ve made all the time and I’d love for them to be seen in nice uncompressed HD via file but how to send it and ow will they play it?
Michael Slowe
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Eric and John, I’m puzzled. I’ve been encoding and burning BD’s for a while now because as I’m finishing up with an HD project in the ProRes 422 HQ codec I really don’t want it only to be viewed in SD on a DVD (which I also produce, downscaled from the HD). How else do you exhibit a film lovingly shot in full HD? I don’t need menus or fancy graphics, just the film ready to play and Toast 11 Pro does fine for me. I also hear that BD has no future so what then? I send films sometimes in file form (QT .mov) which is a good way to transmit if you can spare (lend) a drive but then how is it exhibited.
Your advice would be appreciated.
Michael Slowe
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Jason, as a matter of interest what is it that you require that isn’t available with the current version?
Michael Slowe
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Just checked with my EX 1. In the ‘Others’ menu you can switch the White Balance ‘B’ position to ‘Memory’ and then have available ‘A’ and ‘B’ for your own manual W/B’s. Then the ‘Pre Set’ can be used for various Kelvin settings within PP’s as I explained in my previous post.
Michael Slowe
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Don, I think you can use both A and B for manual white balance settings which will remain until you change balance. I also use the pre set in the way you describe, I have about six PP’s with different Kelvin settings. Jim, try it out.
Michael Slowe
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Who says that there won’t be one? Anyway, surely our current ones will carry on for years yet? Still, I’ll certainly support the petition.
Michael Slowe
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Eric, whilst we’re on this thread can I ask about Titanium Toast 11 Pro? I only use that for making BD’s. Just drag in the ProRes HQ .mov and Toast does the rest. I have a stand alone BD Lacie Burner to burn the BD. Brilliant looking BD’s result which seem to play anywhere. One problem though. The discs will not fast forward or back, whereas my DVD’s (encoded in BitVice and burnt in Toast) will do that ’till the cows come home.
Michael Slowe
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Lorcan, the ATW is, I believe, automatically brought into action when you set the switch to PRST (Pre Set) unless you specifically stop that happening in the menu. That may be why you are seeing ATW on the screen or, just as likely, you have pressed the Full Auto button which is one of three buttons just above the white balance switch. In that case everything goes to auto.
Why don’t you try and get a sight of the instructional DVD on this camera, produced by Vortex Media and brilliantly presented by Doug Jensen. All will be revealed!
Michael Slowe
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Yes Lorcan, you have it right with the A & B manual settings, they are retained in the memory. The other poster explains the ATW, never a good idea except in emergency for the reasons he explains. Setting the K figure manually is best for me. I store them in my Picture Profiles, I do a selection from 5600 down to 3300. To access these K settings I put the switch to Preset. To judge which to use can be tricky sometimes and comes down to personal choice. The screen has to be calibrated correctly and you have to rely on it – that can be tricky too if you are in bright light.
Michael Slowe
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Just import the BPAV files and don’t worry – the EX file structure is very complicated. If you look you should have only three files labelled CLPR (or similar, I can’t remember), but that would be the clips resulting from the three takes. Macro is self explanatory, it’s for macro close ups. You only need it when you have to record small objects in ultra close up, I’ve never used it in four years with my EX 1. AF on the other hand has to be carefully used. You probably know that if you set your focus on manual you can still instantly switch to auto by pulling the whole lens barrel towards you in one ‘click’. Most users of the camera prefer manual focus because you have total control of focus. Auto focus is best used when either you have no time to focus manually or when following a moving object. This works well provided you are securely ‘locked on’ to the object initially.
Michael Slowe