Activity › Forums › Adobe Premiere Pro › Capturing D2 video in PP CS6
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Michael Cohn
April 4, 2014 at 3:10 amI haven’t yet installed a video capture card in my computer, so I have yet to test the converter. I expect to free up the card space in my computer in the next 2-3 months and plan to run tests at that time. I will gladly let you know the results as soon as I have anything worth sharing.
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Michael Cohn
December 4, 2014 at 10:05 pmHi Larry,
Well, you were completely right as it turns out. The AJA C10PS does NOT convert from D2 parallel composite to serial component, so I followed your advice and purchased (for fifty bucks!) a Sony DFX 2100 with the hope I could output from the Sony D2 VTR into the 2100, and thus change the rate (composite to component), then output from the 2100 into the AJA C10PS (parallel to serial), and from there to the AJA Kona 3 capture card installed in my computer. Alas, it does not work, and I’m struggling to understand where I’m going wrong.According to some research I’ve been doing regarding conversions I should first convert from parallel to serial and then convert from composite to component, which means I should connect the AJA C10PS to the digital output of the D2 VTR, thus converting from parallel to serial, and then connect the C10PS to the input of the DFX 2100 to convert from composite to component. However, the output side of the C10PS is two BNC connectors – not a db 25 – which is the input connection of the 2100.
Sorry to be so longwinded describing a process of which you very likely have working knowledge, but I am very new to this process so I am struggling to find the correct next step.
By the way, I have tested the Sony D2 VTR and it works fine. The DFX 2100 on the other hand is new to me and I can not find a manual anywhere, so I can’t be certain that it’s functioning properly.
If you have any advice or suggestions I would be grateful, and I hope all of this blather has been useful to you.
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Larry Brewer
December 4, 2014 at 11:07 pmWere you the one that bought that $50 DFX-2100 off eBay? It had been listed for months and then it was gone. The only one remaining is $500. Was about to make a best offer on that one when I remembered our thread.
You connected the converters in the correct order when you went from the deck to the DFX-2100, then DFX-2100 to the AJA C10PS. This should have worked. As I recall the CFX-2100 on eBay was a “no way to test it”, therefore as-is, situation.
Very simple really.. the dfx-2100 converts the parallel composite to parallel component. It is the one thing it is designed to do and it has the correct connectors to do that. I have used them for that purpose. The C10PS converts the parallel component to serial component. I have not used the AJA C10PS, but according to its description it should be the device for the job. It is described as a parallel to serial converter where the “output” follows “input”. Parallel Component in, Serial component out. Parallel Composite in, Serial Composite out. I have one but can’t use it without the DFS-2100.
In my setup I had an ACCOM parallel to serial converter. A single rack unit sized device. I used it downstream from the DFX-2100 and it did the trick. There is no ACCOM resembling this device on eBay today. It is NOT the ACCOM d-bridge, that is another animal.
I’m thinking the problem you have is with the DFX-2100. Even testing it would be difficult, no device I know of today that can even display a standard def parallel component signal.
My next solution will be a INNOVISION DX210 D2 TO D1 TRANSLATOR. I’ll let you know how that works out
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Michael Cohn
December 4, 2014 at 11:18 pmFor what it’s worth, IF I can get the DFX 2100 to work, after I’ve captured all of the D2 material I will be happy to send it to you for the cost of shipping.
In the meantime I’m going to read over the manual for the Sony D2 VTR-10 to see if there’re any settings I’ve missed in sending digital output to the 2100.
As always I’ll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks for taking the time to offer advice.
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Larry Brewer
December 4, 2014 at 11:24 pmThank you very much for that generous offer!
I would try resetting all the boards in the DFX-2100. If that doesn’t work and the D2 deck is doing its job, then the problem is probably with the DFX-2100 electronics. The capacitors have most likely dried out. That vintage of Sony equipment is notorious for that issue.
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Michael Cohn
September 6, 2015 at 9:44 pmHi Larry,
It’s been a good while since we last corresponded, so I want to update you on my ongoing efforts to retrieve D2 footage. Alas, after many attempts success continues to elude me. As you mentioned in your previous message the culprit is most likely the Sony DFX 2100. Of course it’s also possible the AJA Kona capture card or the AJA C10PS is at fault, but the truth is I will probably never know exactly which link in the chain is broken. I have checked the capture card in Windows 7 system BIOS to make sure the PCIe card slot is enabled, I have run self diagnostics on the card as well, and all looks good. I have an inexpensive Black Magic analogue-digital converter, so I will very likely just take the analogue video output from the back of the D2 VTR and experiment with an up-conversion to higher res, perhaps using a Teranex or some similar device. BTW, I am curious about something and perhaps you know the answer. It’s my understanding that the images stored on the D2 tape are SD (720x480i), and I believe the analogue video output from the VTR is the same, so if I were to successfully capture the digital output, what specific advantage would I enjoy? Would the image quality resulting from captured digital output be noticeably better than digitized analogue?Any clarity on this subject would be very much appreciated.
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Larry Brewer
September 7, 2015 at 3:32 amMichael
“Would the image quality resulting from captured digital output be noticeably better than digitized analogue?”
To capture the digital signal from the D2 VTR would avoid the digital to analog conversion at the deck, and the analog to digital conversion on the capture side. There should be some advantage however noticeable I can’t say.
I searched and couldn’t find the answer to the D2 resolution question . Either 480×720, or 486×720. 0r 480×640 would be my best guess.
I’ve since added a different solution to my D2 to D1 capture needs. An Innovision DX-210.
https://www.recycledgoods.com/innovision-dx210-d2-to-d1-analog-to-digital-translator.html
Looks like this one can go either way, and a nice price if that ad is still current.
I admit I actually haven’t tried the one I purchased for a similar price a few months ago. But barring bad caps, blown fuses, burnt power supplies, it should be fine. I suggest you dump the 2100 and the AJA. This is a one device solution, and loaded with bells and whistles.
I realize I sound pretty confident for someone that hasn’t even plugged it in. But wadda got to lose?
Good luck and let me know.
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Chad Brunswick
September 17, 2015 at 5:58 amWhat a small world. I just started researching this after acquiring a DVR-10 deck to digitize a D-2 cassette for a client… Then I come across this thread started three years ago and still being discussed!
Unfortunately the InnoVision DX210 looks very hard to find. The link Larry posted recently now says ‘Out of stock’ and Google search doesn’t turn up much.
So, is it safe to say this is a lost cause? I’m sure a lab like Fotokem or Technicolor would be able to do to the job but not for cheap. I’ll probably just settle for capturing the analog signal and cleaning it up as best as possible.
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Michael Cohn
September 17, 2015 at 12:26 pmFor what it’s worth I very recently contacted a post house in Dallas who ran a series of tests for me. They ran from analogue out (From the D2 VTR) through an A to D converter and then into a Teranex to up convert from SD to HD. I was able to compare straight SD, HD 4×3, HD 16×9, and HD PAN. The SD was as expected and looked no better than what I can do at home by using an inexpensive BM A to D converter, but the results are less than desirable in part because the raster lines are very noticeable along the edges of faces, etc. However the HD (up converted from SD) 4×3 looked acceptable, and though it added some noise it did completely eliminate the visible raster lines. So if you can find a unit to up convert to HD I think your client would be pleased with the final product.
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