[Victor Osaka]

Awesome info. Thanks!

[Victor Osaka]

Hi, thanks for replying. I’ve using a mini 3 foot pole horizontally with a Kinoflo Diva 415 and a Maxi 12 foot pole horizontally holding up black out cards. The walls are interior stucco based walls with standard wood framing.

[Victor Osaka]

Thank you for your reply David. It tells me that I am on the right track. My asking rate comes out to be between $65 and $75 per hour. I gave them a flat fee as this is the first time doing business with them.

Thanks again.

[Victor Osaka]

Thank you for the response. Much appreciated.

[Victor Osaka]

Richard, of course the tech did not say anything about dampening the surfaces. Recommending I get the Sennheiser LP500. Rubbish. I’m hoping someone here on CreativeCow can give me lead to a consultant.

[Victor Osaka]

Thank you Richard for your response. I made an appointment with the guys at GuitarCenter and will meet at the house tomorrow in fact. Fingers crossed a good system can be put together.

[Victor Osaka]

Yes. The room is terrible but, it is what I have to work with. Would you or anyone else here be able to suggest a company that could be hired to configure an audio system for me? I am in the West Los Angeles area.

[Victor Osaka]

I just found this post: Could it work for your situation? Maybe.

Victor

David Blumenfeld Re: ZOOM H4n Material lost on SD Card
by David Blumenfeld on Oct 7, 2012 at 4:34:26 am

I picked this up off of another post after my batteries died on Zoom 4hn at the end of a 1 hour interview. IT WORKS! Even if it reads 0 on your card!

https://zoomforum.us/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=17991

Dear H4n Mac users,

I thought all was lost. My batteries ran out during a shoot (phantom power drain horror) and when I got back to the studio the file came up as 0kB. But thanks to hints from forum member aumeta I’ve managed to recover it. I thought you all should know it can all be done on a mac using freeware. Follow these steps:

1. As soon as it happens remove the SD card and don’t use it. Unknowingly, I did use it, but for less time than I had previously recorded, so I was still able to rescue a large portion of my file. The SD card works a lot more like a tape than you might imagine. So when the batteries fail, it will start recording the next file at the start of the file that failed when your batteries went. This means if you’ve recorded, say, a 25 minute track, then the batteries have run out, and then you’ve recorded 2 more 2 minute tracks on the same card with new batteries, that you can still recover the last 21 minutes of your track. Clearly, it’s better to recover all of it, so next time, carry a spare SD card, and stop using the battery damaged one!

2. Back in the studio, plug in your SD card into the card reader so it mounts.

3. then open
Applications>Utilities>Terminal
What we’re going to do is unlock some advanced features on another utility Disk Utility

4. Once Terminal has started up copy and paste this in:
defaults write com.apple.DiskUtility advanced-image-options 1
then press return

5. Now open
Applications>Utilities>Disk Utility

6. Select your SD card in the list of drives, then click the New Image button

7. What we’re doing is making a copy of the entire SD card, including all the empty bits. This allows the audio program we’ll use which can read RAW files to read the entire disk image as one enormous audio file.
So, in the Image Format tab select “Entire Device” and have encryption set to “None” and save your disk image to a drive big enough to hold it.
instructions with pictures are here https://echoone.com/filejuicer/disk-images (ignore the last section about file juicer it will not help your problem

8. Now you’ve got a file that you can open in your audio program. One that can do it is a piece of freeware called Audacity which I found out from the forum post by johnsantic.
Download the Mac version from here: https://audacity.sourceforge.net/

9. Here I’ll adapt John Santic’s instructions from this post which saved some files for me which we’re’n’t 0kB (https://www.2090.org/zoom/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=14366)
“The normal way to load an audio file into Audacity is to use the typical “File > Open” command. But they have another way to read in a file in case the header is damaged or missing. This uses the “Project > Import Raw Data” command. The next step is to select your new disk image in the dialog box that opens.

10. Another dialog box should open which asks for audio parameters, this should be the same as the way in which you recorded the file:
In my case this was:

– Signed 24-bit PCM (ie 24 bit WAV on the zoom)
– Little-endian [this means the audio data in the file is least-significant-byte first – it will be the same whether you recorded at 24 or any other bit rate]
– 2 Channels (Stereo)
– Start offset = 910 [this is the normal size of an H4n header, you should also try 0 and 2 if you are at 24-bit, or 0, and 1 for 16-bit]
– Amount to import = 100%
– Sample rate = 48000

After you click “Import”, Audacity reads in the file. What you’ll probably find is large blocks of interference with audio files inbetween. If you find your lost recording, select that section, then use the command “File > Export” and save it under a different file name, with the same settings as your other original sound files. Joy! OK so you’ll probably lose a tiny bit at the end and at the start, but I’m sure you’ll live having recovered the vast majority of what you thought was lost forever

11. If you don’t find your audio file in there this time do not despair. Instead just go back to the start of part 10 and enter in a different start offset (0, 1 or 2) and you’ll find a different portion of the audio you recorded will appear. I found my lost file on the second attempt when I set it to 0. Just keep on trying.

I thought I’d messed up the whole project. Now I’m full of the joys of life, and thought I should share it with you all.

Ta,

James

Top

zoom1061
Post subject: Re: Ran out of Battery and found only a 0Kb file? There’s hoPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 4:11 pm

new to this board

Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2012 6:12 pm
Posts: 1
I just wanted to affirm Jimmybulb’s post. Thank you! and to anyone else who did the behind the scenes work to make recovery possible, you rock! I spent 4 hours troubleshooting and downloading random freeware programs, but when I found this post, all was saved except about 15 seconds that were somehow corrupted. I ran the process twice through to see if the file would come out clean but it didn’t so I’m guessing somewhere in the process of my Zoom H2 becoming unplugged, the file became corrupted. I’m not really sure. I was recording a wedding and it finished. Because my batteries were dead, I had confidently plugged my zoom H2 into a power strip thinking it was the ultimate, safe source of power. Well, the sound board just happened to be plugged into this power strip and the sound engineer unplugged it after the wedding. The zoom power was cut off before I could stop recording. Note to self – set up at least 2 layers of good quality audio backup if possible.

A couple helpful notes.
1. Don’t stop trying if you get an audacity file that is ALL interference. You probably got the audio parameters wrong. The sample rate, offset, stereo or mono, little endian all seems to matter. I tried multiple settings before I got the right one and sometimes the audio came out as all interference (LOUD interference) or super slow low voices.
2. All the freeware recovery programs I tried didn’t do what I wanted. Most recover deleted files, pics, etc.. not fix audio files without a header.
3. I tried 0 for the offset, and it came out as pure interference. 1 and 2 both worked in my case. I was recording 16bit, stereo, at 44kHz.
4. DEFINITELY choose a low percentage to import to test first. Setting it at 5% for about 7.4GB of a card only took about 30 sec to process on my macbook pro.

Good luck!
Nick

[Victor Osaka]

There may be a solution but, the last resort will be to play it (in realtime) from the H6 and record to your computer or another digital recorder via the lineout.

[Victor Osaka]

I have the same setup. But, I don’t have that bad of a signal problem. That sounds like poor signal rather than interference. How far is the receiver? One tip I read and use is to make sure my receiver is vertical to match the orientation of the transmitter AND for both to have a clear path (line of sight) to each other.

There have been bad units reported. You might borrow a set from someone or rent a set and compare.