Tim Kurkoski
Forum Replies Created
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AE does support importing some files from 3D applications, like RLA files from 3D Studio Max, but not as true 3D objects. AE can use the Z-depth information from the files and apply some depth effects, but it doesn’t interact with them in 3D space.
If you want 3D object interactions inside of AE, the best option is to use a plug-in from Zaxwerks or Conoa.
Otherwise, you can always export from your 3D app as an image sequence or QuickTime file (preferably with alpha) and integrate the object into your comp as footage.
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What editing program are you using?
The simplest way is to export your video as a DV-AVI file from Premiere Pro. Then let your DVD authoring program handle the transcoding for best quality. Adobe Encore, for example, has an “automatic” setting that will use the maximum quality setting so that all of your video will fit on the disc. For reference, you can put about 60-90 minutes of video on a standard 4GB DVD before you’ll start seeing quality issues.
The other way to go is to export directly out of Premiere Pro as an MPEG-2 file, ready for DVD. That way you can control the amount of compression applied. It’s up to you to manage the data for the DVD, though. If you use the highest settings but you have a lot of video, it won’t all fit on one disc. Getting the balance between quality and file size right is called “bit budgeting”.
Mike Velte has posted a table that shows you how much video you can put on a standard DVD at a given bitrate:
https://www.video2stream.com/using_the_adobe_mpeg_encoder.htm -
That particular example looks pretty simple. The layer was mirrored, and it looks like it was blended with a gradient layer. Possibly a slight blur in there, too, but not much if any (maybe less than half a pixel).
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Yes, but AE is not necessarily a good program for doing editing in. Just the same way you can do a lot of effects and compositing in Premiere, but AE has better tools for doing those things.
Each program has their strengths. Unless your editing needs are so very simple that AE really would suffice, use Premiere for what it does best and use AE for what it does best.
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No, not really. DVD buttons are rather limited compared to what you can do in Flash or on the web. One of the problems is that they need to work with the directional controls DVD player remote controls, not just mouse controls on a PC.
The best you can do on DVD to accomplish a “mouse off” rollover is to have each button in a separate menu. Set each other button in a given menu to “auto-activate”, so that when the user moves to it, the menu for that button is loaded. This may not work as expected when using a mouse, though. (It’ll definitely work when using a remote control.)
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Premiere Pro has some good presets. If you’re going to put a total of 60 minutes or less onto the DVD, you can use the 7Mb presets. Up to 2 hours, use the 4Mb preset. Or customize the setting in between.
Cow Leader Mike Velte has a table on his web site that shows you the bitrates you should use for a given length of video to fit on a standard 4GB DVD:
https://www.video2stream.com/using_the_adobe_mpeg_encoder.htmYou might also want to Google “DVD bit budgeting”.
Of course the easy way is just to export out of Premiere as an AVI file and let Encore handle the bit budgeting automatically. Just make sure to use a reasonable AVI setting. If you’re shooting DV, use the Microsoft DV AVI options.
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Once you have a look at the pasted image and can see the stray pixels (turn off other layers if necessary), use tools like the Eraser or Lasso to select and/or delete them.
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AEX is an After Effects plug-in. A plug-in with that extension was designed to work in AE, not Premiere. But because Premiere has a limited implementation of the AE API (or at least the parts that Premiere can do), some AEX files will work in Premiere.
PRM is a Premiere plug-in. I don’t think anything but Premeire can read them.
If your plug-ins are older than Premiere Pro 1.0, it’s very probable they won’t work. So much was changed with Premiere Pro from previous versions, the only plug-ins that are older and may still work would be AEX files.
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Try using Levels, Contrast, or Posterizing before applying the effect to bring out the shadows and highlights more.
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You’re probably using a brush with a wide feather. That can cause you to end up with some areas where it looked like you had brushed out part of the image, but really some very faint red area was left in QMM. Use a harder-edged brush, or just clean it up after you paste it (this is where the “quick” part of QMM comes from; it’s not the most accurate).