[Steve Kirkham]

Sounds like what they want is subs with a “box” behind them – this is usually a grey faded box that encompasses the text and makes the text more easily readable. You can’t do this directly in Studio Pro. The only way – as far as I know – is to use an external subtitling program (which most folks who do a lot of subbing do). You need one that can produce this “box” effect and can then export graphics and an STL file that references these graphics which can be imported in to DVD-SP. Think Belle Nuit can do it if memory serves.

Steve Kirkham
Tree Frog Communication

[Steve Kirkham]

Thanks Guys… after a little bit of head scratching got it to work… superb 🙂

Steve Kirkham
Tree Frog Communication

[Steve Kirkham]

Trust me that’s the first thing we ask for but unfortunately lots of producers still lag behind the times… and if you ask them to transfer the DA88’s to files they charge a fortune.

In the end we will just use a facilities house to capture for us – not enough of this kind of work to warrant a purchase. Thanks everyone for their help and advise

Steve Kirkham
Tree Frog Communication

[Steve Kirkham]

that seems like a great way of doing it (and normally cheaper than getting them to capture the tracks to computer files)

So if they ‘dumped’ to Digibeta that would carry all the audio right? Then I can use my Sony J3 to capture!

Genius!!!

I know what you are saying about constant spending though!!!

[Steve Kirkham]

Is it not possible to get some kind of TDIF to AES cable thereby negating the need for the IF-AE8?

Or is that too simplistic?

Steve

Steve Kirkham
Tree Frog Communication

[Steve Kirkham]

Hi Baz

Sorry to be a bit dumb but can you break it down for me. As far as I can see what you are saying is it IS possible to use the HD Extreme card to capture the audio from the DA88 (all at once) but I’ll need some more bits to do it. I can currently get a very cheap very low use DA88 on eBay (assuming I win it 🙂 so that’s the route I guess I will take (we are only going to use it occasionally but the way I always look at these things is if it’s going to cost me more to send it to a facilities house than it is to purchase all the bits I need then next time I need it I’m in profit as it were…)

Thing is I’m not an audio engineer – I’m a DVD author and graphic designer so any help gratefully received

From what you are saying I’ll need an IF-AE8 plus TDIF cable (I’ll google these so I know what you are speaking of). So how do I then hook it up to the Blackmagic HD Extreme? What inputs? Capture how? in FCP? Soundtrack Pro?

Are these extras expensive

Thanks again (sorry if i then ask more questions once you respond 🙂

Steve Kirkham
Tree Frog Communication

[Steve Kirkham]

Hi Max

Yeah it gets me part way there I think and i can see what you are saying re: sizing etc.

You can move the position of a sub in an STL file (so that a subtitle will appear at the top of the screen for instance). We normally create our subtitles externally (which is the preferred method for flexibility etc) hence why we have an already created STL file.

So are you saying there are no tools on the market that can create/convert the subtitles we already have and make the relevant BDN XML file (is that right?) with corresponding PNG files.

How do people create subs for Blu ray at the moment then? Aren’t they created externally and imported…?

Steve Kirkham
Tree Frog Communication

[Steve Kirkham]

Set your logo as big as you can in Motion – export this to a TIFF (or do a screen grab). Open it in Photoshop and it will be 72dpi (as you have discovered). Go to Image… Image Size. Click OFF Resample image then in the Resolution box type in 300 instead of 72dpi. Your image will become smaller but will be 300dpi. Is the same as taking a photo from a digital camera which are usually huge (dimensions wise) but if you need it for print work you need to change it to 300dpi – same method applies.

Just be aware that on a business card type is going to be very small and even if your are working at 300dpi the text is not going to come out crisp. That’s why most designers (myself included) will create graphical elements in Illustrator or vecctor program (as these are resolution independent), any photographic elements at 300dpi in Photoshop and any type elements in Quark/Indesign/Pagemaker (the type is then rendered at the dpi of the imagesetter your printshop uses – usaully 2400 or up)

Hope this helps

Steve Kirkham

[Steve Kirkham]

When you open a file in Photoshop it is the dpi it is. So if it’s 72dpi then it will stay 72 dpi unless you go to Image size and change it’s properties. I’m not aware of any way Photoshop changes it “automatically” without you knowing.

As for your friends photos they wer presumably taken with a digital camera – which as you have rightly noted when you open in Photoshop and and check the properties they are 72dpi but huge!!!

I work with print for a lot of my work and more and more of the photos supplied by photographers are digital – hence 72dpi. If you want them to be 300dpi for print design the way to do it is open the file then go to “Image”… Image Size. In dilaog box turn off Resample Image. Then in Resolution type in 300. Size of photos Width and Height will become smaller. Bingo it’s now a 300dpi image useable in any print project

Hope this helps
Steve Kirkham
Tree Frog Communication