Ryan Orr
Forum Replies Created
-
Okay, then I can saftely say that what I said would be irrelavent.
Sorry Pedro, I’m not too sure what could be the issue.
Good Luck,
Ryan -
Don’t know who you are Pedro or how your setup is like, so I certainly don’t want to be “insulting” or anything, but have you calibrated your monitors recently?
My setup consists of two lcd computer monitors and one 1080p consumer television (not idea, but it gets me through) connected to my I/O. Every so often, maybe a month at a time, I’ll go through each of them and calibrate them just to be sure everything is gravy.
Not knowing of any 7D-to-ProRes 422 issues like the one you’re asking about, my only thought is that maybe your monitors are at different luminance settings.
Good Luck!
Ryan -
It was a reallllllly long zoom lens…definately 😉
Ryan~
-
The inherent nature of DSLR’s won’t allow the viewfinder to be used.
The way the mirrors/shutter inside work like this. For photos, when you’re looking inside the viewfinder, you’re basically looking in a mirror that’s “closed” over the sensor. When you take a snap, the mirror opens to allow light enter the sensor, but at the same time, it blocks the viewfinder from seeing anything. Depending on your shutter speed, that could be a very quick or a very long opening for light. If you’re daring, adjust the shutter to open for a few seconds. Take the lens off, take a click, and watch how the mirror disappears and what you are seeing is the sensor. I don’t endorse doing this multiple times or having the shutter open for more then a few seconds. This could damage the sensor a bit, especially if you have bright lights in the room. Not going to be my fault if something breaks 🙂
That’s with photos. Video it’s a different thing. When you’re in video mode, the mirror/shutter is opened the whole time, thus blocking the viewfinder. When you are dialing in shutter speed, you are actually adjusting the frequency the sensor turns off and on (not exactly, but more or less that’s how it’s done).
So with these HD-DSLRs, it’s either looking at the screen, or an external monitor.
Sorry my friend, but that’s how the world turns!
Good Luck,
Ryan~ -
The only thing I can point you towards is a Vimeo Group called the “ULTIMATE 5D MK2”.
https://vimeo.com/groups/5dmk2/videos
There are some fantastic work done in this group, and hopefully as the name suggests, they use the 5D MK2 exclusively (hopefully…). There are lots of wedding trailers and such on here too that just look fantastic IMO.
Of course, that’s only a push for the 5D. There doesn’t seem to be a “ULTIMATE 7D” group either.
That’s all I got. I’m making a push for the 7D myself due to the 60fps stuff. Personally, I like overcranking when it’s done in the camera and not in post.
Later,
Ryan -
My suggestion is don’t do it…
Unless you have a fantastic stabilization system that will get rid of all kinds of vibrations.
I have heard that for Aerial Photography, a high shutter speed and wide angle lenses are the best suggestions for someone who does not have expensive stabilizers, but I hardly think that this would be as applicable to video.
If you don’t have good stabilization that would get rid of all vibrations, then I think there may be some good pointers that could reduce the jerkiness.
1) Isolate yourself from the helicopter’s vibrations as much as possible, while being as safe as possible. IDK how you’re going to do this. Talk to the pilot to see what is exceptable safety wise. Maybe a small bean-bag cushion or something for you to sit on?
2) Shoot as much of a wide angle as possible. Tell your pilot to get as close as he can while being safe, and then adjust your lens to be wide. Wide shots are your friend.
3) Decide on a framerate you’re wanting and then apply the 180degree shutter rule. The 7d can do overcrank in 720p at a framerate of 60fps, right? I would do that, so that the shutter can be 1/120 (or as close to that as possible). Higher shutter speed would be best, but not TOO high or you will introduce a TON of studder.
When you get back to your editor though…don’t be surprised at the results. Even with all the tips everyone will give you, there’s going to be something wrong with the footage. I will predict that there will be a rolling shutter issue (“jello-video”). There is software out there that can take out rolling shutter very well. Then, to make your footage MORE stable, I would use After Effects to stabilize it further.
Andrew Kramer has a great tut on this.
https://videocopilot.net/tutorials/stabilize_shaky_footage/Good Luck,
Ryan~ -
Hmmm…I have a sneaky suspicion that this “choppiness” you are experiencing is due to using a really high shutter speed with the progressive frame rate. What was your shutter speed at the time of the aerial shots? If you are shooting at 24p, your shutter should be as close to 1/48 shutter speed as possible. 25p would need 1/50, and 30p would need around 1/60 shutter speed. The whole 180degree rule of thumb for film would apply here.
Although it’s entirely possible that it could be the global shutter (did the video have a “jello-ey” look to it?), I more-so suspect it’s the choppiness that is inherent when shooting progressively. Your first few shots with the 5D was on a tripod and static. The aerial shots were hand held and in the air? This is kinda giving me a clue on the high shutter speed error some ppl experience.
But the other suggestions of hooking up the 5D right to a 1080p HD television via the HDMI cable or burning the footage straight to a blueray would help out by process of elimination.
Good Luck,
Ryan -
Max,
In my opinion, the very LARGE sensors used in these HD-DSLRs are the top reason I like them so much. Higher Dynamic Range, the ability to have a very shallow DOF, interchangeable lenses…all that can make me drool just a bit if I don’t watch myself.
However, ANYONE who is buying ANYTHING (especially video/film) needs to know the downfalls/shortcomings of their gear, so that they 1) are not surprised or caught off guard with the problems, 2) know what adjustments they need to make to their workflow to get their project finished in the least amount of time and effort.
I refer to the Canon line of these HD-DSLR cameras. Yes, the codec isn’t very lovely. Everyone (who is sane) has to transcode the footage to something more cpu friendly when it comes to editing (ProRes 422 for FCP users). The rolling shutter can be nasty, but those who know better, know how to avoid the “jello” effect. The form factor was designed for PHOTOS! Handheld isn’t nice…at all. You would have to get support like the Zacuto rigs to do handheld right.
You’ve come to the right place Max. This new forum has already been chucked full of great info and insight with these cameras. Look around, do MORE research until you know all of the benefits and downfalls of these cameras, and use that knowledge to see if it would be a good thing for you to buy.
As long as you are happy with the workarounds that ppl before you have created, then I would say you will be happy with the results too.
Good Luck,
Ryan~ -
Who doesn’t want the “biggest”, and “cheapest” and “best” 🙂
Specifically speaking about hard drives, no matter what brand, what make, or how much it’s praised…all hard drives will fail! I hope you have a raid configured for data protection in mind 🙂
-
I’d rather Canon make their screens swivel out like the Nikon’s do. In terms of super low angle shots, especially for video shooting, a swiveling screen with the Z-Finder would be 1st class.
Oh, and I think my nose just changed some setting.
Ryan~