Rick Amundson
Forum Replies Created
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You can use ND gel on the lights. Each step cuts one stop of light (i.e nd.3 = 1 stop, nd.6= 2 stops, nd.9= 3 stops). You could also use a piece of screen like the kind you might find in a screendoor.
As for a softbox, there are several ways to go and you may be able to find a diagram online. The simplest way is to hang something like 216 or Gridcloth in front of the light. Not too close though, move it away from the fixture so the light from the lamp fills the diffusion without spilling over the sides. Another way is to build a box out of white foamcore and cover one end with the diffusion. Then just shoot your light through the open end.
Test it before the shoot to see how it works!
Rick Amundson
Producer/Director/DP
Screenscape Studios
Bravo Romeo Entertainment
http://www.screenscapestudios.com
http://www.bravoromeo.com
http://www.indeliblemovie.com -
Rick Amundson
April 30, 2007 at 7:14 pm in reply to: Please welcome Rick Amundson to the Cinematography forum teamThank you. I’ll glad to be here.
Rick Amundson
Producer/Director/DP
Screenscape Studios
Bravo Romeo Entertainment
http://www.screenscapestudios.com
http://www.bravoromeo.com
http://www.indeliblemovie.com -
Nathan,
Yes, you can use shoplight fixtures from Home Depot. It seems to me that you want to use these for your key and you may be able to get by without a fill because you are still using existing light from the room (except from directly overhead) that will act as a fill. My issue with using a halogen worklight as a key is that it will be fairly harsh in such a softly lit environment. I would try to keep my key source soft (i.e fluorescent, bounced, chimera, etc.)
As for the backlight, I’m guessing 500w could work (depending on the distance from talent) although you may want to find a way to scrim it down.
Lastly, you might want to talk to the local rental house, sometimes they will give you a good deal on weekend rentals!
Rick Amundson
Producer/Director/DP
Screenscape Studios
Bravo Romeo Entertainment
http://www.screenscapestudios.com
http://www.bravoromeo.com
http://www.indeliblemovie.com -
For that money you might want to look at renting a couple of 4′ Kino Flo units and using bulbs that match the location. The gym may have extras in the storage room if not you can buy them at a local hardware store. 4’/4bank Kinkos usually rent for less than $75 a day. Then there are no worries when travelling and color temp and light quality match the existing location.
Best of luck!
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The anamorphic squeeze within the camera is artifical. Basically, the camera is trying to give you 33% more image on the sides of your image so you loose resolution on the vertical side (down to 372 lines). On a 4:3 monitor the picture will looked squeezed but looks normal on a 16:9 monitor (the vertical lines are being stretched to fit the screen). The letterbox mode gives you the same vertical resolution (372 lines) and plays back with the black bars on a 4:3 monitor. The anamorphic adapter is a true optical squeeze retaining the vertical resolution. Be sure to read the artical on focusing and depth of field mentioned earlier. Focusing in low light is a bear.
Rick
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For the timecode issue look at Noah’s response to this same question on Nov. 19, 2005. Basically, you use the remote control to reset the timecode on both cameras at the same time then record in free-run.
I’m not a FCP expert but here is how I have done multicam syncing. You will need to open a clip from the “A” camera and set an in mark at the head of a take, then open the corresponding clip from the “B” camera and mark in at the same timecode. With the two clips highlighted right click and select Make multiclip from the drop down menu. This will need to be done for each clip that has a break. The manual has a great expanation of the process.
Rick
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I agree with Noah. I’ve used the DVX cameras for 3 years and had good luck using the Panasonic tape with my camera and Sony deck.
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I belive the price of the two cameras is the same as the 100B is replacing the 100A. My understanding is that the internal workings of the two cameras are the same (ie gamma, color matrix, etc.) however, several “creature comforts” have been improved or added.
I have been very happy with the results I get from the 100A and have no problem recommending one, but if you can wait, get the 100B! The 100B has a veiw finder that sees the whole image from the CCD as opposed to an overscanned image and that could save you from unwanted c-stands, light stands, boom mics in your shots. Also a higher resolution LCD screen and view finder will make focusing better. If you plan on shooting 16:9 squeeze, the view find will show you a 16:9 image as opposed to a squeezed image. This is very important for composition. There are numerous improvements to the already great camera and you can learn more on the Panasonic website.
Best of Luck!
Rick
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Rick Amundson
January 12, 2006 at 1:40 pm in reply to: How to do a DV camera to DV camera digital dubActually it is a pretty simple process. You will connect the two cameras via firewire cable. Set the DVX to be the record deck by pushing the camera/vcr button located on the back of the camera. The manual will describe what settings to use for this process. This method will also allow you to record either the timecode on the original tape or you can set a new one..
Best of luck!
Rick
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You might want to check out http://www.filmtools.com for a variety of clamps, cables and adapters.
Rick