Rennie Klymyk
Forum Replies Created
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two – 30’s….hee hee hee. The apple 23″ have a lot of trouble with dead pixels and ghosting. The 30″ are appearently less problematic. Don’t have much experience with other brands.
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[mortimer heathcliff] “the subject heading itself is an oxymoron as “VHS” and “quality” should probably never appear in the same sentence”
Hollywood releases from film and tv programing originating on 1″ composite video were recorded on 58 micron track pitch vhs decks for release to the public and they look pretty good. Likewise the early amiga computers output composite video that was very nice looking video. I just watched a copy of Romancing the Stone a few days ago which was recorded off satilite onto an S-VHS deck (7-8 years ago or so) and I ran it off a JVC BR-S622DXU deck with component out to a BVM monitor. I had to ask myself “has video really gotten that much better”? It looked great! A lot of the reputation of vhs is gotten from consumer equipment and consumers who record on SLP modes onto cheap stock from cheap decks and store their tapes over the heat register. If you’ve ever picked up a reel from the local tv station you’ve probably noticed how nice it looked.
.[mortimer heathcliff] “as an 8-bit capture vs. the DV capture shouldn’t matter at all with VHS and mini-DV originals”
If you are going to mix vhs with mini dv on the time line I wouldn’t worry about it, otherwise I’d try to keep vhs seperate and bring it in sd 8bit. A pro deck with a tbc will help get cleaner video from old vhs. We have a mediapress hardware encoder that makes encoded vhs look amazing. DV is not a great codec for dvd encoding. If you have a lot of vhs you might consider renting a good deck with tbc for capturing. You will be able to restore the video, chroma, and black levels and adjust phase. If it has a DNR circiut it will eliminate most the drop outs too. If it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing well. Why not make it as good as it can be?
…and Now the Pitch…
(I really didn’t plan this part from the get go) but I have several JVC BR-S622DXU decks with under 500 original hours on them for sale if you or anyone is interested. Maybe I should post them in the classified. -
[Chris Poisson] “I would hope you posted this before you read the two excellent suggestions for addressing this issue”
That would make this a non-issue wouldn’t it? As is usually the case, there are several alternate quick and simple methods to achive this one task in fcp.
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[Steve Eisen] “I don’t know if you tried this, but recapture the tapes from the camera it was aquired on.”
This is an excellent suggestion. I once had 2 pd 100’s that wouldn’t play each other’s tapes but if I captured from the original cameras the footage was fine. Mini DV is 10mn track pitch on 1/4″ tape, these are fine tolerances from which manufacturers have been able to give us great results. These issues are even worse with HDV especially from brand to brand.
If the camera is unavailable I would defiately try dubbing from mini dv to another mini dv. Most of these cameras and decks have tbc’s built in and it could make the difference. At this point try everything you can.
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[Bobbygiles] “Hello everyone, I am shooting a multicam proformance with 2 DVX 100a’s and a HVX 200.”
I take it you would use the HVX200 in dv mode but just a reminder it is a 16:9 camera and the DVX100’s are 4:3 format. I have no experience with firestores but they have been around for some time and should work for the dvx’s. I’m not sure if you can use an SD firestore with the HVX200 or not, or if it only works with the dedicated model (firestore 100)
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[Tom Brooks] “The Kona manual tells how the component cables become the luma and chroma cables in S-video mode”
Now that’s cool, …..AJA cool
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Does this dvd recorder record component in?
In the kona prefrences is the set up (black level) set to ire 0? If it’s already there try 7.5 and use the lighter setting on the dvd recorder.
I’m very unhappy with my sony rdr gx315. I’m not sure how the sony 900 or 1000(UK ver.) is. They have component in. I’m afraid of sony in dvd, they seem to over protective in anything that deals with copying. My previous machine was a philips 985 with component in and it was excellent except for it’s short life. These things are basically made as “disposable”, they don’t seem to last. To bad the pioneer LX1 didn’t use normal user replaceable burners.
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[Steve C] ” It is not for weddings and home movies anymore. “
Whoa… low blow! Granted FCP has come a long way since the last century but back then it was pretty impressive too compared to speed razor, premier, media 100 and the new toaster nt that were hot at the time. It’s main drawback in version 1 was the dv only interface but when the targa component cards came out it was well beyond weddings and home movies. With a $6000.00 targa card, a G3 and fcp (about $10,000.00) you were competing with the $80,000.00 media 100 which was what everyone who couldn’t afford an avid was using. Anyone who thinks fcp was ever only usefull for home movies and weddings is confusing it with imovie1 or never really looked at it as this was during the big migration to the pc and the windows nt platform that had made it possible to try to edit video on the pc.
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I’m getting more and more of these comming in (mini dvd’s) and often they are not finalized and will not show up on the desk top or in my sony dvd rw burner. I found an app for windows called cdroller (www.cdroller.com) and looks really great for working with this media. Does anyone know of a similar product for mac? I have mac the ripper, streamclip and burnz but they are useless if the disc won’t even load on the desk top or play in a dvd player. My sony rw burner will recognize some of these if they are not finalized but I’ve run into several that I can’t do anything with.
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Most people will likely make do with what they already have so I’ll generalize some info. To me the important considerations are size and weight (portabillity, it’s another piece of gear to pack around and volume wise it’s the bulky-est) and performance. Invest in the best one you can afford. You will never regret buying carbon fiber sticks except maybe the first time you get your visa bill. 3 sections (2 stage) as opposed to 2 section (single stage) will fold up smaller and be a lot easier to manage. 10 years from now you will be happy you bought these options. Midlevel spreader is great if you are outdoors on un-even terrain alot, whereas a floor spreader is faster if you are in buildings or on the street. A good Satchtler or Vinten can set you back $15,000.00 or more and Miller and Cartoni hold the middle ground. Manfroto has started producing some better video tripods too but I’m unframiliar with them. 75mm bowl is all you need but 100mm will work fine. The heads all have quick release adapters except maybe some of the old ones but you definately want that. Most of the better tripod heads have a wide range of drag tension so they can be used with large and small weight cameras.I like a canvas bag too as they have off set straps to balance the heavey end of the tripod on your shoulder. A hard case is good if you ship or handle a lot of gear as on multicamera shoots.
Test for backlash. Extend the tripod as high as it can go and borrow a Canon XL1 or something equal in weight to the HVX200 but with a long lens. Hook up a monitor and do some swish pans. Some tripods will flex back at the end of the pan and you will see this with a long telephoto lens. The legs flex and spring back a bit and it looks terrible. This is why I still like a heavey tripod you can lean on even with a small camera.
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