Norman Pogson
Forum Replies Created
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I have the 7D and am starting to get this buffer signal and the camera stops filming. I have found out through observation that if I do not keep clearing my cards and reformatting them I get this fault. If I format them immediately I get this signal they work fine.
I have Kingston pro x133 16GB and I’m used to leaving files on the card until it’s full. I find if the card is half to two thirds full when I start a new project I can get this buffer signal almost immediately, if I format the card to discard the existing files that have been saved, the card works fine.
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I came across these that are getting quite the following.
https://cheesycam.com/vdslr-led-video-lights-going-going-gone/
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Just be aware that frames per second,(Used to be how fast the film went through the shutter opening), is different to shutter speed. Frames per second for North American productions like TV is normally 30 fps,(25fps in Europe and Australia), so your shutter speed for “normal” filming is twice the frame rate, which is 1/60th, these are now locked in, the only variable is aperture and iso. As Richard said the way to get the shallow depth of field is to put on a neutral density filter, to block the amount of light and or a polarizing filter.
Cokin filters are a cheap option for ND filters and can be stacked with two ND filters and a polarizing filter. Ebay also have the Fader brand of variable ND filters in a screw in mount. Also don’t forget to get shallow depth of field you can also use a telephoto lens, which naturally has less depth of field to a wide angle lens.
You can change the shutter speed for effect, if you want a planes propeller to not be blurred, more like a strobe effect, crank the shutter speed up, I have used 1/1000 and 1/2000 to give an unusual effect.
Movies are shot at 24 frames per second, which introduces a slight blur to the action, which gives film a distinctive feel.
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Lenses to consider would be non zoom lenses, such as the Canon 50mm f1.4, or a 24mm for wider shots, or 85mm for slight telephoto.
I would suggest if you are new to the whole lens issue, is to try out the lenses you have and film at different focal lengths, so use the kit lens you have and see what you think of the different focal lengths it films at.
A good photography book would be worth the investment, so you could get an understanding of how lenses and apertures work together to give different effects to your images, such as depth of field.
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Norman Pogson
July 4, 2010 at 11:13 pm in reply to: How to – Shoot in low light and reduce noise on Cannon 550DAli, your lens is stellar, I’m suggesting checking the exposure, another poster suggested taking a still and checking the histogram, which is great advice.
At the end of the day iso 800 should be good, your lens is good, go and buy some cheap LED or uplighters to give you a better chance at a quality image.
Check out the LED lights at https://shop.ebay.com/easysupply/m.html?_nkw=126+led&_sacat=0&_trksid=p3911.m270.l1313&_odkw=&_osacat=0&bkBtn=
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Norman Pogson
July 4, 2010 at 2:19 pm in reply to: How to – Shoot in low light and reduce noise on Cannon 550DI’m using a 7D and have found I can use up to iso 1600 and get acceptable results, however the largest cause for digital noise, apart from insane levels of iso, is incorrect exposure.
Take your time with the scenes and meter them accurately, if you do not have access to a light meter, try different metering modes on your camera, such as, Evaluative or Center weighted.
Look for problems areas in the scene from an exposure point of view, maybe try to dial in some exposure compensation. Other than that it will be a software solution for noise, or more lights.
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You can’t set the fps on a Canon 7D, they are pre packaged with the size of the video. 1280×720 is either 60fps or 50fps. Are you confusing shutter speed as fps?
Also in case you are not aware if you choose 1280×720 60fps, then your shutter speed should be double the frame rate, so the nearest is 1/125th sec.
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I just got a bunch of third party ones, yet they look like Canon, even have the logo on and fit perfectly, they came as a set with body cap.
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I don’t notice a lens creep on old Nikon lenses, also if you get the Nikon EOS adapter, do as Michael Sacci suggested in another thread, get some Ebay Canon rear lens caps for the Nikon lenses if you have a dedicated EOS adapter fitted full time. I just bought four sets for $4.60 incl shipping from Hong Kong.
You can get adapters for Olympus and Pentax old lenses, be sure the lens has an aperture ring on the lens.