Norman Pogson
Forum Replies Created
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Another reason to use Neoscene conversion for green screen, as the conversion doubles the color space to 4.2.2
I think it is shutter speed related what you are seeing. I had visible banding with some Christmas lights, I could see it on the LCD of the 7D, so I just dialed down the shutter speed until it stopped.
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Not only does white balance have an effect, but be careful of picture styles, which can have a large impact. Still travel photographers used to set their white balance to cloudy +1 and that used to give a slight warm tone to the image.
This is my only niggle with the 7D is manual white balance. I shoot stills with Nikon and can set a gray card white balance in seconds with no menu diving.
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Hi Steve,
Generally the round out of focus light points your talking about are caused by the iris being fully wide open i.e no iris blades visible in the lens.
As others have said the hexagonal or pentagon shapes are all iris blade deigns you are seeing on the image.
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If your exposures are long then you can always make and use a Barn Door Tracker camera mount, which will take out the streaking of the stars as the earth revolves, here is a Wikipedia page.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barn_door_tracker
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I agree on the kit lenses, a lot of T2i & 7D users buy used Nikon lenses with aperture rings and get the ebay adapters, then shoot everything manual. The Canon 50mm f1.4 is a great choice or if budget is a concern go with the canon 50mm f1.8.
I have the Tokina 11-16 on my Nikon still camera and frankly it’s a difficult lens to use from a compositional point of view. Verticals in the frame are very hard to manage, unlike my Nikkor AI 24mm f2.8 which is wide but not too wide on video.
Don’t expect to run and gun as quickly as you can with a prosumer camcorder.
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I use the Canon 50mm f1.4 and use it a lot, you wont realize until you really get into using a DSLR for video how valuable the f1.4 to f2.8 apertures are, not only for shallow depth of field shots, which look great on my 7D, but keeping iso low, which has a huge impact on video quality.
F3.5-5.6 lenses are generally amateur still photo lenses, the light loss you experience when zooming to frame shots is a lot.For wide angle shots, I use an old 1980’s Nikkor AI 24mm f2.8 and get wide enough angles for me, without worrying about verticals lines in the frame bending like a banana, I use an EOS to Nikon adapter for around $10.00 from Ebay.
A lot of the time shots that I do, I can walk back or forwards a little to frame the shots, so I don’t feel limited at all by shooting primes, as all settings for movies I shoot are all manual.
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If you knew someone else with a 5D2 or even rent one to do a side by side comparison might point to a defective camera. I’m sure you know this but everything on the 5D2 should be manual settings for video.
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On a 5D2 you can easily go to 800 iso. I shoot with a 7D and yesterday was doing a home interior shoot with a model, using overcast window light and 10 x 45 watt daylight fluorescent lights diffused. I was getting f2 at 1/60th on 100 iso, as it got darker, I went up in stages to 200 iso.
I’m shooting stock footage so I do not want any visible noise. On the 7D multiples of iso 160 seem to have less noise.
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I have the Lowepro Computrekkor, which fits most of my stuff, the only thing I would consider is a version of this backpack with wheels.
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I use standard and faithful on my 7D, I’m a stock video contributor and want to do more in camera and less with the computer.