Nick La belle
Forum Replies Created
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Use the RS-422 deck control on the DecklinkSP card.
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Get yourself a cheap firewire DV converter, and have PT play out straight QT NTSC video to the firewire port. Think of it this way: your audio is at 48KHz, meaning 48000 samples a second. It doesn’t matter how many frames of picture that is. At 30 f/s, an NTSC machine will get it, and so will a 24 f/s box. That is, if you make al of your transfers FILE(!) based, which is the way to go.
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This Sony has RGB inputs, guys, and thats not “YUV” / “Y, R-Y, B-Y” / or Video Component, whatever you wanna call it. That’s why you’re having these strange colours. Output to Beta SP will be fine.
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Hi Bud,
Sounds like you instincts are just fine. Could be that your “Westinghouse 37″ HDTV” even has all kinds of internal processing on board, to do…….whatever…
He’s the solution, get yourself a small digital delay device. Maybe you can get a second hand Yamaha SPX90, or so. That’ll do. -
I hope I understand what you mean. When you talk about “down converting loss”, I assume you mean you drop pixels, or lines, resulting in an image of lower resolution. The answer is, of course, yes, you can call that a loss. But the loss in image quality is not there in terms of artifacts, color shifts, or anything like that.
So the only “real meaning” of the original pixel resolution, is staying in that pixel resolution. Up sampling does not increase image resolution, while down sampling will decrease that resolution. But it’s not an issue that’s gonna kill us.(Remember that our television sets and VHS recorders most often can’t display the full resolution of Standard Definition video. They will reproduce maybe 300 or 400 image lines. Still the X-files look great!)
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Hi Husse,
Quality is more then pixel resolution. If you get a Sony HDV at 1440×720 pixels, that’s more pixels than you would get from your 720×576 Digi Ikegami camera. But I can tell you now that a $80.000 Ikegami has a better picture in SD than a $5.000 Sony in HDV.
It has to do with optics, lenses and electronics. Of course this is HDV here. In “real” HD like HDCAM and up, there’s some really good stuff out there. It’s also nice to have more pixels in HD if you want to do a lot of FX and compositing.
But to return to your post, I’ve been involved in a TV series that was shot in HDCAM for FUTURE PURPOSES. What went out to the broadcaster was a Digi Beta. We had done the editing in SD in FCP using the original HDCAM tapes, as the Sony machines have a SD SDI output. The SD copy of the eventual HD master didn’t look any better than the copies we had of the original footage.
So, if you want to make your shots look good, use a great camera, with great optics and a great camera person. Make sure the lights are great, the director of photography is great, and use a great colorist. If that’s what you’ve been missing in SD, it won’t be there in HD. No matter what a salesman will have you believe. -
Suggestion 1 – Forget the BB generator. If it works, it’s great, if it doesn’t, don’t worry about it. Use the DL as a master. If you need your SP to Sync, use the Y cable as a “ref” signal. (You can loop it thru to the Y-in where it belongs.)
– there is no software based hardware test of your card. A simple setup is!Suggestion 2 – Disable “Video Desktop”
It will have the OS take control of the card when your not using FCP. It may be an amazing and interesting feature, but I’ve had my HD card switch from SD PAL (in FCP) to HD NTSC when in the Finder to look for some files. Yes, UNIX is about schizophrenia. Of course you van correct these setting, and of course OS X does a poor job trying to remember these settings. (You probably have VGA monitors or other non-Apple Displays connected to your machine, as X changes resolution at times)Suggestion 3 – Disable System Audio to use the DL card.
OS X is not a Macintosh OS. It’s UNIX and can’t “talk” to hardware. Check your settings and don’t try anything wild.
-Imagine, you tell the system to play out system sounds over the DL card. Your system is set at 16-bits at 44.1 kHz. But you are also running FCP, that uses the card for 48kHz audio at 24-bits. See what I mean? There is an issue of conflicting interests here, and what is your DL card supposed to do? Sync is always about simple things and being very straightforward. -
Try not to sync your SP. Do the inputs of your video mixer reshape/reclock/or timebase correct the signal?
If not, do you have TBC’s lying around? Or any professional Beta machines that could do the job for you?
If nothing helps, do the reverse, you Decklink outputs are masters, the video mixer and everything else are slaves. Put in other words, if the Decklink SP is so bad at accepting external sync (because it has too little tolerance to differently timed devices) make it chief to everything else! -
Use the COMMAND-9 keystroke on your clip (“Item properties”) to study its properties.
– the video frame rate
– the video frame size
– the video codec used (compressor)
– the video pixel aspect ratio
– the video field orderUse the COMMAND-0 keystroke on your sequence (“Sequence Settings”) to study its
properties.Ask yourself, is my timeline a perfect match to the media I want to edit in it?
If not, make them match. If you like what you get, create a prest that works
for you.
If you visit your Audio/Video Settings (COMMAND-OPTION-Q) and set your playback
device to Decklink (in the A/V tab), there’s a good chance it will work. -
Good news on this one, it doesn’t matter one bit!
Your Quad will probalbly be shipped off the shelf with a NVidia 6600
or something similar. That’s just fine. Don’t worry about it.(I’m assuming you’re into NLE here, and not into OpenGL 3D work.)