Max Baker
Forum Replies Created
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OK, so in summary, is anyone consistently burning 3D Blu-Ray that can be watched with shutter glasses on a 3D HDTV? If so, what’s the complete configuration…software and hardware? I’m using Vegas 10 and the editing is fairly easy, and will burn anaglyph with no problem, but I’m looking to step up to the more professional appearing 3D.
Many thanks!
Max
Max
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I appreciate all the great responses to my query. This really does highlight a path to follow. I’m gathering that the DSLR is better in a controlled set-up, with external audio. That’s actually where I was thinking of using this camera. I don’t care for the audio quality on my camcorders either, and mostly use a Zoom H4N with either wired mic or wireless lapel mic, so that’s not much of an issue for me. The rolling shutter/skewing problem also occurs with the CMOS HDV camcorders as well. Consequently I avoid pan shots and flashes as much as possible. Thanks everyone for all the data. I may just have to take the plunge. Worst case scenario, I have a great DSLR camera for my stills!
Max
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I’ve experimented with a lot of different render settings with a wide range of results. The You Tube tutorial didn’t prove to be real accurate for me, so I tried a lot of variations. One solution I’ve found that is fairly simple and consistent is to render it for iPod, then upload. Although I found you need to render in the larger screen formats to get good video. Try this:
Save as type: MainConcept AVC/AAC (*.mp4)
Template: Apple iPod 640×480 Video
If your original video is standard SD with 4:3 aspect, then leave the default settings and render.
If you are rendering widescreen or HD, do the following:
In “Custom”, change the “Frame Size” to “Custom” (drop down menu)
If you are rendering HD, change Width to 1280 and Height to 720. (YouTube HD is only 720, so it doesn’t really add anything to render 1080, other than longer upload times.)
If you are rendering in widescreen SD (16:9), change Width to 720 and Height to 480.
That’s about it. This renders the video to mpeg4, which is pretty efficient (not my favorite, but it works well with YouTube). Strangely, I have rendered with this format a few times and ended up with crappy results, but most of the time it comes out real well. Remember that on YouTube it may take up to a day for the YouTube owners to finish processing your uploaded video, which means that your video may look pretty grainy at first, until it’s done processing. I use Vegas Pro 9.0, but I imagine this is pretty much the same on most of the later versions of Vegas. Good luck!
Max
Max
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Steve, there are two 35mm lens adapters for this camera that I know of, one that Sony sells which will directly connect Sony 35mm lenses to the camera, and then there’s a guy in the UK that sells an adapter for Nikon 35mm lenses. I have a Z7U, although I have not tried either of the 35mm lens adapters. The Z7U uses the three-prong bayonet lenses as stock. I am able to directly plug in my Fujinon lens from my JVC GY-HD100 without modification. Definitely gives you a lot of flexibility. Although the adapters are fairly expensive for just a little piece of metal. The Sony adapter runs for upwards of $600 if I remember correctly, and the Nikon adapter comes in around $400 based on the conversion rate of pounds sterling. Not sure if you’re looking at Canon 35mm SLR lenses, or Canon video camera lenses. Either way, I hope this sheds more light.
Max
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A lot of good advice. My initial thought, which you mention but is not deeply pursued in this thread, is your copyright to the product, i.e., when it transfers to the client. She could claim that it is hers as you were retained to create it on her behalf, but as you point out, you could argue that it transfers on full settlement. I like the idea of the cease and desist letter. I, too, would recommend moving on, but if you are rabid about pursuing this, like on a vengeance scale, small claims court is probably your only venue. You never know, just the summons may prompt settlement. You’ve certainly exhausted the direct communications approach. Also as pointed out, you have to take into account the goodwill aspect. How likely is this to impact your brand name in the future? Someone already framed out some basic concepts for ingredients of a contract; I would add a clause that states when the copyright transfers. That’s a lot of leverage, since they can’t use your product commercially if they don’t have the copyright, which reduces their enticement to stiff you.
Good luck!
Max
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I had to have my Buffalo Multi Media Blu-Ray/HD-DVD burner player replaced. Their customer service was great, and I had a replacement within two weeks. The replacement took a little trial and error to make work, but now is fine. Two things to ensure success: if your disk won’t burn, try using a different brand blu-ray disk. A Maxell brand BD-RE wouldn’t burn no matter what I tried, but switched to a Sony brand BD-RE and it worked fine. As for playing movies, the Nero bundled player was crappy. I bought “WinDVD Plus Blu-Ray software” and both Blu-Ray and HD-DVD movies played great. As for burning, again, I prefer the free ImgBurn software over the bundled NERO. ImgBurn is great after you compile and render your production using your preferred NLE. I do like the drive, but the Nero bundled software was a real pain to work with BD.
Max
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I have been an avid supporter of HD-DVD since it was first announced. As of yet, Toshiba has failed to market an HD-DVD burner here in the US. I’ve constantly heard their default mantra, “it will be out soon.” To date, no HD-DVD burners. I finally gave up on Toshiba and went with Sony’s Blu-Ray, and am burning great high definition videos. The cost of the blank disks still makes my high def productions a bit pricey, but I’m sure that will improve with time.
Max.
Max Headspace
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Oops! Correction. I stated in the second sentence of my previous post to drop the volume level to zero to mute the audio; I actually meant slide it left to -00 (negative zero zero). Zero decibels on that slider is actually normal volume level.
Max.
Maxheadspace
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Another approach would be to use the volume control for that audio clip. In the monitor window, select the Effects Control tab, then click on the arrow for “volume” so that the volume level control drops down. If you want the volume down or muted for the whole clip, move to the beginning of the clip and set the volume level control slider to zero. If you want to drop the audio only for the footsteps part, at the beginning of the point where you want to begin lowering the volume, click the diamond above the volume level slide to set a key, then move in the timeline window where you want the audio to bottom out. At this point, simply slide the volume slide left to the level that you want it to be (quiet), Premiere will automatically set a key at that point. Then move forward in the timeline to the point where you want the volume brought back up, and click the diamond to set a key at the end of the period where you want it quiet. Again, move a little further in the timeline to the point where you want the audio back up to the normal level, and slide the volume level slide back to zero decibels. Premiere will automatically set the key. With this method, the volume will be normal until you get to the “footsteps” section, then drop down to a quieter level, and after the footsteps, the audio level will rise back up. Your other post says that you have “ghost” audio. If that’s the case, you probably have that audio clip recorded onto another track. You may try clicking the speaker (mute) button on each track until you find the offending “ghost” track.
Good luck!
Maxheadspace