Mark Petereit
Forum Replies Created
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Qmaster won’t make any difference in FCP. But it can make HUGE difference if you’re spending many hours waiting for Compressor to crunch files.
You’ll get best performance with a cluster if you connect your computers through a gigabit ethernet switch using network cables rated for gigabit speed.
This article can help you get your cluster set up.
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Wow, you really need to take an hour, read your camera manual and familiarize yourself with the controls. Seriously. I’m not saying that to be condescending — it’s what I did when I pulled my first JVC GY-HD110U out of the box.
Switch on the bottom of the lens controller, (M)anual or (A)uto.
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I think the general rule for shutter speed is that is should be twice your frames per second. You need to white balance BEFORE you shoot, preferably with a white board subjected to the same lighting that will be present in your shoot. I use a 2’x4′ piece of foam-core that I picked up at Hobby Lobby. It doubles as a nice bounce light for fill.
On the JVC’s you generally don’t want to boost gain — it adds noise. Always better to get your lighting right.
Unless you’re doing something “artistic”, while you’re shooting you should only have to adjust zoom/focus and only OCCASIONALLY iris, and then only subtle changes. Typically, if I find myself adjusting my iris, it usually means I’m about to shoot the whole scene over. The obvious exception to that is if you’re shooting a continuous shot as you’re moving into/out of a building into/out of daylight. And in those settings, you set up your shots separately, note each of your iris settings, then shoot.
How much camera experience do you have? What are you shooting?
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In my experience with the JVC-GY110U and the JVC-GY250U, I learned very early that full auto is useful only as a quick setup shortcut on a stable shot, then you turn it off and tweak as necessary to achieve your desired look.
Once you get used to the camera and learn the basics of good lighting and shot composition, you’ll never turn full-auto on again. I haven’t touched that switch in probably 3 years.
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Why not just export your audio tracks separately (i.e. individual .wav files) and import them into DCP?
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HDV and Prores are actually two different codecs. I think I just used HDV and never had any problems.
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Shouldn’t be a problem. I used to do it all the time to record church sermons from our JVC GY-HD110U camera into a MBP for posting on Vimeo. I always recorded to tape at the same time just in case anything interrupted the live capture.
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There’s always the tried and true “just select the default settings, compress it and see what you get, tweak from there” strategy.
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Yeah, that’s what I’m talking about. 😉
(Sorry, I wasn’t near my FCP machine.)
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Still think keyframing the luminance is going to give you what you desire. When you think about it, closing the iris on a camera is literally reducing the luminance of your image.