Malcolm Matusky
Forum Replies Created
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Well,
This was a great response! Thank you all for the input, this is a valuable forum and if my client is not completely nuts, will save them a lot of money. I am already producing a film about their business, cutting “b” roll to distribute to cable affiliates for free will be alot cheaper than the $30k the profileseries was willing to do the job for.
Thanks’ again.
M
Malcolm
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Thank you all for your posts, I did find that, one person, suggests the effective ISO of the HMC-150 is 500 ISO. For those of you who own this camera, does this sound about right?
Regards to all,
M
Malcolm
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I have a 7D and am planning to purchase the HMC-150 to have greater flexibility. I appreciate the responses, but I used to “rate” video cameras with a light meter so I could light a set, the LD needed this information so he could use a light meter, no one had a LUX meter at the time. Procedure was simple enough, point the camera at an evenly lit 18% gray card, set gain to 0, see what the stop on the lens was when image was properly exposed. The LD would hold his incident meter at the gray card, 50th of a second, set the stop from the camera and adjust the dial to see what the resulting ISO was. That was the “effective ISO” and now it was easy to use light meters on set without having to ask to see a monitor, or WFM, which really slows down complicated lighting set ups.
The “tube” cameras used to have an “effective ISO” about 64, at 0db gain. I presume current cameras are much higher now, and I would find it useful to know the effective ISO of the HMC-150, because I do want to use it with my 7D in the same lighting setups.
Rick, have you ever made this comparison? you have the 7D, is the HMC-150 substantially less light sensitive?
Thank you,
Malcolm
Malcolm
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I have been wrestling with the same question and after shooting with the 7D for six months am ready to buy a Panasonic af hmg 150 to supplement my 7D, not replace it. I shoot alone, Zoom h4 & shotgun mounted on a flash bracket, small shoulder brace or monopod or tripod, lavs for sit down interviews. So far I have done well with this rig, but I do need a camera that can run longer than 10 minutes for some of my work, and not having to sync audio in post would be great! Also being able to have a smooth zoom is also another issue with DSLR’s, I rarely use a prime, not worth the hassle when working alone; 11~16 F2.8, 17~55 f2.8 & 70~200 f4.0 seem to do it for me, though I own a few fast old Nikon primes I have an adapter for, I rarely use them.
I used to use a Arriflex 16BL and a Nagra, compared to that rig, the 7D and all it’s issues are a Non-issue!
So for my work, The 7D has been great, and I do need to use a “proper” video camera 25% of the time, so I’ll get one soon. So don’t sell the 7D and the lenses, get a “video” camera to supplement them.
M
Malcolm
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So, I figured out “bounce a track” means “render to a new track” tried it, created a new file, selected a section of v&a on the timeline, made a sub-clip and then previewed it in the trimmer, same problem, original 7D audio was back??? not my better quality synced track, ugh.
Did I miss a step? being able to break up my long takes in the trimmer and then add to timeline would be very helpful to edit the project I am working on, rendering HD video just to accomplish this is very time consuming and I would prefer to avoid it if possible.
Regards,
Malcolm
Malcolm
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Thank you, I’ll try it tomorrow. Have a big job ahead of my and this would help!
M
Malcolm
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I have a 7D and use a battery grip with AA cells (6) 32Gig card and shoot till the card fills during interviews, never overheated and I live in Scottsdale AZ, quite hot here!
One idea about the “overheating” issues is when any battery drains, it get hot, if the batter is inside the camera the heat is transferred into the camera, by using the battery grip the heat stays outside of the camera, using the “dummy” battery with a cable will accomplish the same thing.
My $0.02
Malcolm