Forum Replies Created
-
The only one I’ve seen is this: https://www.usa.canon.com/templatedata/pressrelease/20100208_t2i.html – I keep hearing it will release 24 Feb, but I haven’t seen anything official. All the reports say March 2010. So it may be available in a week or it could be a month. I’ve been looking, too. 😉
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Ya know, as much as I love (and still use) the DVX100, I am a big fan of it’s newest incarnation – the HMC150. Basically the same camera and HD and it shoots to SD cards instead of tape. It feels nearly identical, but with a better lens and more advanced pro features. I really like the latest crop of Canon DSLRs, too. On the other hand, if you have a DVX-100 or are planning on picking up a used one, you can’t go wrong. I’d go with the 100B, though.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Wow, good question. I’m guessing it’s High Profile, but not 422 (I think it’s 420) at level 4 or higher. It uses a variable bit rate. We just shot some footage last night on the 7D (I truly wish I had one of these myself, but I love playing with the footage anyway). It’s got a bit rate of around 50mbps (about 2x normal AVCHD at the high setting).
Of course, this is a guess as I don’t generally deal too much with the hard tech side of things, but it was such a unique question, I had to look it up.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Jonathan Ziegler
February 17, 2010 at 9:19 pm in reply to: 7D owners, help me track a flicker problemI won’t have one to play with until Saturday. It sounds like you got it to work, though. I’d talk with Canon about it.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Jonathan Ziegler
February 17, 2010 at 7:43 pm in reply to: 7D owners, help me track a flicker problemHey there, what are you using to play back the frames on? In other words, you shot on the 7D, then you turned them into video in what app? If you are playing back on the 7D, don’t rely on the output, rely on something like Quicktime instead. Also, I would run all the frames through Adobe RAW or Lightroom or something that you can use to ensure you have the exact same levels on each frame and then convert to video from jpegs in Quicktime.
If I’m not getting what you mean, then please clarify. I do time-lapse with my Canon Rebel xt straight to hard drive with the built-in canon remote shooter. Sounds like there are too many factors to lay it on just one thing.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I don’t have as much experience with the 170 as the 150, so I could be biased, but I really, really love the 150. Hmmm, can you sync 2 150s like you could a DVX100? I’m off to manual land…
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
There’s also the HPX170 – it’s basically the same as the HVX-200, but it doesn’t have any kind of tape mechanism and the warranty is longer (fewer moving parts?). I like both the 150 and the 170 (and the 200 for that matter). For cost, the 150 is a great choice and I’m really happy with the camera. Also, the 170 and the 150 are basically the same camera only one is P2 and the other is AVCHD on inexpensive SDHC cards – yes, there are other differences and you get what you pay for, too.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Egads, I’m thinking you need a stabilizer as the previous person mentioned. I’ve never shot aerial footage, so the previous advice might be better. I think it depends on what you’re shooting. If it’s lots of long shots, you will see vibrations and nothing short of a gyro setup (I’m thinking of the one mounted on the Bell helicopter at NAB last year) will help you. With a wide angle, you can “hide” the vibrations – same as for shooting with a rig mounted to a car, but you at least have shock absorbers and a decent suspension system with a car. If you are going handheld, you can make a stabilizer (or rent one, I suppose). You can use PVC, but it’s too light to make it practical unless you attach some weight to it – maybe make it from steel like the $14 stabilizer. The advice with the shorter shutter makes solid sense, but if you get the shot you want sooner than later, take the time to experiment since you probably won’t get to just go up anytime you want (and if you can, can I go with? ;). I’d try a variety of settings at 30-60 second intervals and just keep shooting no matter what. Maybe you can use the footage later – everyone always has neat, tidy aerial footage, try to muss it up a bit and see what happens.
If you have the opportunity to get some aerial footage whether you’re paying for it or not, I’d most definitely do it and try everything in my arsenal to get some great shots – even if it’s just b-roll – hell, shoot some still pix – you can do that with a long focal length and they’d be great. Can you post any of the footage when you’re done? I’m interested to see what happens.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
-
Jonathan Ziegler
February 12, 2010 at 3:33 am in reply to: HDSLR’s Inferior HDMI and Recording CodecWith the 24-30fps output for 4k images, that moves into the territory of cameras like the Red One. On a basic level, that’s what it’s doing. Could the processors and sensors for these HDSLR cameras be hacked to give full resolution 4k images at a 24-30fps rate? I don’t think they’re there yet. If Canon is smart, they’re looking into it because they could have a rabid group of filmmakers and videographers looking to get a Red-like camera for say $4000 (yeah, wishful thinking, I’m sure) – compatible with say XL mount or EF/EF-S lenses.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293