[Jonathan Ziegler]

I find it easiest to use Photoshop or Bridge in PC or Mac. If you are using PS, drag or copy all your images to one folder first. If you are on Bridge, you can multi-select the images you want to process.

In photoshop: File >> Scripts >> Image Processor

In Bridge: Tools >> Photoshop >> Image Processor

From there, it’s pretty much the same on both except, in Bridge, you would have already selected the files you want to convert and in Photoshop, you can pick an entire folder:

Anyhow, you can tell it to “resize to fit” which means if the image is bigger, it will shrink it (proportionately). So, if you want it to fit into say, 800px width, enter 800px for the width and leave height blank. For web images of my photos, I have it shrink everything to 1200x1200px which means either the height or width (whichever is longest) will be 1200 and the other measurement will be proportionately changed (ie: 4000px by 3000px becomes 1200px by 900px). Hint: if you tell it to put it in the same folder, it creates a JPEG folder and copies the resized images there so you don’t have a lot of clutter. You can also have Image Processor add things like watermarks or perform other actions.

General info on Image Processor: https://help.adobe.com/en_US/photoshop/cs/using/WSfd1234e1c4b69f30ea53e41001031ab64-7427a.html

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Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

Can you be more specific? It sounds like you are asking to have a single line with multiple stroke widths. I don’t think you can do that unless it’s some kind of stroke style, but even then I don’t think so. Can you send a sample of the art?

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Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

Well, I had initially thought it was an issue with a consumer camera, but that camera isn’t usually so problematic and its a pro-level camera. I’m thinking your friend should contact the manufacturer – it’s too difficult to work second-hand from maybes and might-bes in this situation. A more direct approach will be required. Install whatever needs installing, first, though.

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Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

Ah, I may have been wrong on the overall life. That “mAH” (milli-Amp-Hours) represents the anticipated life of the battery in milliAmps. Basically, the higher that number, the more life you get from the battery. I gave you numbers based on Canon’s estimates in the 70D manual only I thought it was a 2600mAH battery not 1800mAH which means there are suitable Canon replacement batteries that may give you more expected life (maybe up to 30% more?). Since there are so many factors involved with battery life, it’s really hard to say for sure (ie: temperature, manufacturer, age of the battery, overall camera use, etc.).

Good luck! 🙂

Save early. Save often.

Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

What is it you are trying to do, then? Are you saying you want to make a anchor a curved point from a corner point? You can use the Convert Anchor Point Tool (the little arrow looking thing in the pen dropdown) to drag on the point to make it a curve – may need to do some pulling and such to get it back to where it way – make a copy and paste in front if you’re worried about screwing it up.

Save early. Save often.

Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

Kinda depends on a couple factors:

battery age – as batteries age, they have less life.

Look at the projected life: LP-E6 is a 2600mAH charge life. Canon says you get about 1hr, 20 min continuous shooting with that battery which means the camera would pull roughly 2A at full power so more mAH will extend the life using, for example, the battery grip, but turning off the camera between shots and such will help.

Use OEM batteries – I used to get the cheap ones until they started failing on me by running solid for 10 minutes, then suddenly dropping to 0. Never had that happen on the Canon ones, though.

Keep your batteries charged – give em a full charge the night before the shoot. Rechargeable batteries sort of “leak” power over time.

Lower temps effect life, too: colder temps slow down the battery and heat can kill them, too.

Hope this helps.

Save early. Save often.

Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

If the card were corrupt or not reading correctly, it wouldn’t be so selective (ie: ONLY the video files disappeared) about what’s there and what wasn’t.

Many (HD) consumer camcorders record AVCHD which is basically BluRay format. You may have to “rip” or log/transfer the files. Your friend should check with the manufacturer to determine how to transfer the files or download the manual. In the past, I’ve had to log and transfer from consumer camcorders while others required a proprietary app. To check, look for the really big folder (as in loaded with data) on the card with Windows Explorer (win) or Finder (mac).

I’m making a guess that it’s a consumer camcorder here, of course, but if it is AVCHD, look for a BRMV folder which will have the video clips. There may be some needed additional files in there, too. More info:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AVCHD

Barring that, what’s your friend’s camcorder’s make and model? I’ve had the worst issues with JVC and a couple others, but that doesn’t mean its the issue here. Also, some professional camcorders can record across multiple cards and/or internal memory so you may need additional files.

Save early. Save often.

Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

Scriptographer used to be the way to go, but that hasn’t been updated in a while.

https://www.astutegraphics.com/blog/free-and-useful-adobe-illustrator-scripts-with-scriptographer/

With a light-hearted search (draw math functions) in Google, I found this:

https://rechneronline.de/function-graphs/

You could take a screen shot of it and trace it in Illustrator. There are loads of tools out there, many free, you can use to create curves, then trace in Illustrator.

Save early. Save often.

Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

Well, you’re asking a couple different things: what’s fair and what you can pay (based on what you’ll charge which you already know). If you can afford less than $xyz a day, you’ll be looking at amateur and beginner video with varying levels of quality. Above $xyz a day, you get more experienced people with better equipment.

It sounds like the overall quality can be mid-range or lower because you intend to put it all together in the edit. In that case, hit up the local photo, video, and indie film groups in town and see if there’s someone who can do your shooting for less money. If you can afford more, do it and you’ll save money by not recovering lousy footage or having to do a reshoot due to poor quality. Either way, it’s your dime and you have to decide how best to spend it.

For pricing, I know people who won’t charge less than $500 a day and others who are equally as good who charge much less for local shoots. Try looking for freelance, ENG, stock, and indie shooters with a decent portfolio who have their own equipment and are willing to shoot for your prices. Ask for links to portfolios and be critical. Many are also accustomed to driving all over town to get their shots and can be really efficient about it. Every town and market is different, though.

These are just some ideas and I won’t pretend to know your business model so I’ll say “good luck” with your endeavor and I hope this helps.

Save early. Save often.

Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

I did some greenscreen work

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrGO9UQvklk

using umbrellas with some varied results:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrG-LAgZU0E

I used a Canon T2i with Magic lantern installed so I could shoot at 320ISO. I used a combination of 45W and 85W CFLs inside the umbrellas. I think it would have been better with more wattage in softboxes. Note, also, you light the greenscreen separate from the model – there is some light spill from the green screen lighting that actually made keying the footage easier, but it wasn’t necessarily desirable.

$200 isn’t much for lighting. Sorry. I could do DIY lighting in that price range, but you will need to make your own equipment. The CFL bulbs alone can run $200. Some places to check:

https://www.tubetape.com – lots of mid-priced stuff.
https://www.alzodigital.com – they make the big CFL bulbs I like.
https://www.cowboystudio.com – more low- to mid-priced stuff. I’ve had varying quality issues with them, but when you’re on a budget, they rock.

Save early. Save often.

Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

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