Jonathan Ziegler
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Distribution uses the objects’ center points. If you have a really large number of objects to distribute, you can try using distribute top or bottom edge, but I think you’ll still wind up having to manually change the distance for a few of the objects.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
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There’s a couple ways you can do this. I think the easiest will be to simply move everything from the cyan channel to a new spot color channel, although there is nothing wrong with simply telling the printer to use a spot color for cyan, too.
Anyhow: I use the Print/Proof workspace to set it all up (Window >> Workspace >> Printing and proofing). You get the separation preview window there, too. Create your spot color (using the swatches palette, go to the drop down and pick Open swatch Library >> Color Books >> Pantone Solid Coated), find a likely green candidate and drag one of the swatches to an object’s fill (one you will want that color). In the separation preview, you will now see that spot color listed. Now, select whatever is cyan – fill or stroke – go to Select >> Same >> … from here, it depends on what you have as cyan, stroke or fill or both. Once selected, go to the swatches palette and your spot color should be there, you can drag it to your objects, etc. to change colors.
I kind of hazed through this since it sounded like you had a good grasp of Illustrator already. If you want more detailed instructions, just let me know.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
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Can you post the original image? That will help.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
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I’m willing to bet there are some subtle changes to the zig zag effect that are causing that. The easy fix is to outline the stroke and make changes to the resulting object. Also, you can create any shape and duplicate it 6 times around the center. The banner here was done that way (the little shapes and such in the background): https://weegonza.com/
Might be easier and more symmetrical.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Okay, tracking and kerning are a weird sort of creature. The units express a percentage of the em space (the width of the letter M which is generally a fairly wide letterform) for that font. This varies from font to font, of course. Kerning is for adjusting the width for specific letter pairs and tracking is the same, but expressed for the entire line or selection of text with that font. So, if you track 80% down, you are reducing your normal amount of zero to -80 (-100 would be a full em space). Depending on your font, though, this may jumble up some of the letters. Also, be sure you aren’t just condensing the type horizontally (the “T” over the left-to-right arrows) which would be 20% of the normal width (this is a stretch and has nothing to do with kerning or tracking). Finally, if you track to -80, you may need to go back to individual letter pairs and re-kern so the type is legible and readable.
Post results if you can. What font are you using?
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
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It’d be easier in Illustrator I think, but since we’re in the Photoshop forum, create your initial letter as a pen line, centered in the letterform with the pen tool. Use the stroke tool (Edit >> Stroke) create a large stroke around the letter (you could use layer styles for this, too, I suppose). Duplicate the letterform you just made and drop it BELOW the present layer. Scale the path (Edit >> Transform Path >> Scale), change the color and use stroke to change the color. Rinse, repeat for each bit.
Hope this helps.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
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Which method did you use (build/sequence)? Also, did you have any effects (specifically raster effects) on any of the objects in the layer? Does it only happen with that file or does it happen with any file (can you duplicate it with any file or is it just the one file)?
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
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Yeah, sounds good. You can always upload the video, see how it works, then try again if it doesn’t work. 🙂
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
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Rita,
You could also convert your video to 16×9 square pixels – 854×480 (I think, not sure!) so you won’t have to deal with it or uprez to 720 HD, do your editing, get it ready for final, then let your machine auto-down-rez to the correct aspect ratio for 480, 16×9 resolution. I’ve done both of these to avoid having YouTube play with the settings – they don’t always get it right. If you decide to up- then down-rez, try using a decent intermediate codec like ProRES 422 for Mac or Cineform so you can preserve some quality from uprez to downrez. I’ve never liked the non-square pixel thing on the computer, I don’t think it executes like old-school TVs used to. Computers like squares. 😉
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
If you create the “frame” with the logos in Photoshop and save as a PNG, you shouldn’t have any issues:
In Photoshop, create a new DV file:
File >> New : Select Preset: Film & Video, Size: NTSC DV or NTSC DV Widescreen (depending on your final), Height: 720, Width: 480, Res: 72, RGB, etc. Background should be transparent if you want to use this as an overlay and save as a PNG. Make sure Pixel Aspect Ratio is either 0.91 for regular NTSC DV or 1.21 for NTSC DV Widescreen (should auto-fill).
When the file loads, it will have guides for text and title safe already.
Now, import or place your graphics into the frame, save as PSD so you can edit later and then PNG for use with FCP. Remember, you can change to view square pixels so you can see what the final should look like (View >> Pixel Aspect Ratio >> Pick the one you are using).
Save early. Save often.
Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293