Joe Moya
Forum Replies Created
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If I read your post correctly, what you are trying to do is de-interlace.
If so…
The easy way… File>Interpret>Main>Seperate fields – Off.
The other way…
search creativecow with key works Kramer Deinterlace
You’ll find an old tutorial.
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Probably will never happen… english speaking customer “support”… at least so long as they have the current CEO.
https://www.adobe.com/aboutadobe/pressroom/executivebios/shantanunarayen.html
In general, most software customer support is outsourced and provides little to no customer suppport…Adobe is just more intune with this outsourcing agenda and very lackluster customer support.
My experience with adobe has been…if you have a problem that a forum post can not help you solve…it will take anywhere from 2 days to never getting your problem fixed by customer support with Adobe. Which is why a good user software forum’s are so useful… and, along that line… AVID has EXCELLENT user support on their forums.
BTW, did you post a new thread asking for help on Adobe’s community forum? If not, you might try that as well.
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according to a post by E. Wu at Creative Cow’s Zaxwerks forum..
https://forums.creativecow.net/readpost/41/860504
… the upgrade cost for ProAnimator will be at full upgrade cost… which based on the site should be around $199-$299… as for serpentine and 3D flag, they will also have a smaller upgrade cost associated with the 32bit to 64bbit upgrade.
https://zaxwerks.com/price_list.shtml
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If you have Avid liquid… you can just add a linear time warp and make it any frame per second you want.
Or… in AE, you use time warp… I believe you use Frame or Whole Frame method…to get a time lapse look. I also believe you can use Posterize time by simply changing the frame rate (Posterize Time is easier to use if my memory is correct). I am not certain, since I use Avid Liquid to create this look because it is sooo much simplier and faster than using AE. Perhaps someone else can chime in and be more specific.
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I am loss as to why you would go from AVCHD to sequences in a tif… and… then want to export out for the internet from a tif?
tif is a pretty good aniamtion/sequence file format for quality to file size… but, you can get pretty good near lossless video formats will small file size in a lot of other file format options.
With out knowing the particulars of your workflow (and reasons for going from AVCHD to tif), I would say the best export options would be a any quicktime progressive format. But… a mpeg progressive format would probably work as well.
No matter the video file format you decide… in terms of quality loss… most of your quallity loss is converting from the AVCHD to tif conversion.
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“Did you shot the runners coming forward you, or 3/4 or parallel to to the camera frame going from the left to the right ?”
Yes…. to all. I don’t think you understand… from what angle you shoot the runners depends upon the lighting… and, using the correct angle of light to the camera takes two actions:
1) changing the iso to accomodate for the amount of light
2) adding or removing any filters to help with lighting.Once you have the lighting correct, there will not be any blurring because you have the iso matched to the light needed to remove shadows and prevent blurring.
If you get the shutter speed (i.e., iso) correct relative to the angle of the light you need for the shot… then, every thing will work…. there will be no blurring and shadows will not hide faces.
“how did you set up your camera ? interlaced or progressive; cinemode or tv; shutter at 1/50 or 1/120 ? … “
There is NO ONE way to set up the camera… I set up the camera to match the conditions. Personally, I use 30p (or 24p for PAL users)since it is easier to post to the internet… I will sometimes rotate throught the camera presets (ex. cinemode, tv, bright light, etc) to see they work, but more frequently I have to manually set the iso and/or gain. Your typically going to get your best shots if you manual set the camera (…WHICH MEANS YOU HAVE TO GO OUT AND TEST THE CAMERA TO SEE WHAT SHOOTS BEST DURING THE SAME TIME OF DAY). There is no getting around going out and using the camera until you get an idea as to how manual set your camera for different lighting enviroments. 1/50 1/120 1/250 1/500… heck – they ALL can work… depends upon the lighting enviroment, position of camera and light source and if you are using filters.
However, chances are you will want to use at least 1/50 but most likely 1/100 or higher to prevent blurring… and, I still don’t know why your camera studders… unless there is something wrong with it. Maybe, … by studder… you mean you are getting a ghosting effect (sometimes confused with blurring). If you are getting this “ghosting”, it is because you are shooting at too low of an iso (probably below 1/100 or 1/50) AND/OR too much light. Like I mentioned earlier… if you get the correct amount of light into the camera with the correct iso and direction of the shot relative to the sunlight and intensity of the sunlight… you will not have any blurring or ghosting. THERE IS NO ONE BEST WAY TO SET UP THE CAMERA SETTINGS.
All that being said, let me use two extreme examples of how you might set up your camera…
EXTREME bright light with camera facing the sun and runners in between the camera and the sun: I would probably shoot at 1/250 or 1/500 with a 2x or 4x ND filter. At this speed you will not have ANY blurring… I can even see the individual spokes of bike at these ISO speeds.
DARK SHADDOWs with pre-sun rise lighting with camera facing the subject and ligting behind the camera: I would probably shoot at 1/50 or 1/100 (depending if on the direction of the runners… if they are running past the camera instead of toward the camera, I would use the higher iso) with no ND filter.There are a dozen or so variations of these to combinations… and, the only way you are going to find out what works best to go out and shoot during the same time of day you plan on shooting the marathon.
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Not going to work… unless you can rotoscope the runners out of their background… and, there is no way you can successfully do that with a reasonable sort of of time.
The runners are not running in front of a blue screen. Therefore, you can not key out the runners… the only option is to roto each runner… and that would be crazy to even attempt… specially if you include arm and leg movements.
If I read your post correctly, your idea is bad.
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Stutter…?
I’ve shot many a marathon and ironman triathlon and never got a stutter with a Canon HV20/30/40…
I don’t know what you mean by stutter?
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What you going to shoot is not going to be easy..specially if you are working in a crowd and have limited shot angles.
I strongly suggest you shoot some sample video AT THE SAME TIME OF THE DAY YOU WILL BE DOING THE ACTUAL SHOOT:
Here are a few thing you need or need to know:
You will want to have available:
2x ND lens filter and wide angle lens.
You will most likely want to shoot with..:
a high shutter speed (maybe)… A LOT DEPENDS UPONA WHERE THE SUN IS LOCATED relative to the camera and the runners. A shutter speed of 500 or greater may work if you are facing directly into rising sun with an ND filter. A lower shutter speed may work if you have the sun to your back… but, you may have shadows that block the runners faces because of hats (…and, too low of shutter speed could cause blur.).
Blur is not going to be your enemy IF you adjust the position of you camera relative to the runners and the light source (i.e., high iso’s helps prevents blur). However, avoiding excessive shadowing is VERY tricky… blur will not be a problem IF you get the lighting and direction of lighting relative to the camera down correctly. There are gazillian different ways to shoot what you want… but, only a few are the best way to shoot the scene. Trial and error with similar conditions will be the ONLY effective way to find the best combination.
And… finally, just when you figured out the perfect combo… over a short period of time… the sun angle will change and light intensity changes and… wham… things are no longer perfect and you need to change your settings – again.
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A few things you need to adjust for when shooting…
… first it is not the movement of the runners that will most likely give you problems…
However, you will have to contend with sun light and direction of sun light issues. Most races start early in the morning and you might have direct sunlight to deal with.
Secondly, shadows caused by caps worn by most runners …REALLY… messes with how much light you need in order to effectively show the faces (assuming that is a priority).
Placement of the camera relative to the runners and the sun is crucial to make the shot work. And… one of the problems is that sun light intensity and direction changes the most in the early hours of the day (i.e., sunrise). So… camera settings that might work for the first 20-30 mins. will not likely work in the next 20-30 mins. of shooting time.
Side note: Using various Neutral Density Filters will help A Lot in dealing with lighting and ISO setting issues. I would suggest you take at least one ND filter and it would also be best to learn how use the ND filter and bright light before you shoot the marathon (assuming you haven’t used a ND filter before).