[Jeff Pulera]

For simple DV capture, try WinDV, a free download, just Google it.

Not sure what you mean about the second camcorder, what type/model is it? While I have found that glitches in an HDV tape capture can throw capture sync off following the glitch, I don’t recall that being an issue when I worked with DV for many years.

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Hi Olly,

The old “CRT” displays always cut off some of the image behind the bezel surrounding the screen. That part of the video signal is called the “overscan” area. The distortion at the bottom of the captured image was always there – you just never saw it before! It is head switching noise, common on VHS playback. The Premiere capture and playback windows are showing you the entire image edge to edge now.

https://avaa.bavc.org/artifactatlas/index.php/Head_Switching_Noise

There is nothing you can do to capture a smaller part of the screen, however in Premiere timeline, just use the Motion Effect to zoom in just a little to eliminate the “rough edges” before exporting.

Thank you

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Hi Paul,

If memory serves, right-click on keyframes and change the type to LINEAR, is likely set to BEZIER which creates a curve between keyframes, you want a straight line.

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

I have to agree with Roger, seems like the client is limiting their own options with the DVD player. Sounds like it is an older model and since DVD is standard-definition, that’s the best quality they would get out of it is SD.

Why not invest in a NEW Blu-ray player with USB port, maybe $60, and that WILL play .mp4 files – in HD!! Video looks better = their product looks better.

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Hi Casey,

I use the Magic Bullet DeNoiser, but the issue with any video denoiser is speed – it can take a very long time (overnight) to denoise just a 30 minute HD video clip!

What I found when trying to apply the denoiser in the Premiere timeline is that everything ground to a halt. Can’t really play the video, scrubbing is very slow, it’s just no fun at all!!

So the workflow I started using is denoise the raw footage first before I do any editing, then the editing performance is not hurt.

I’ll take the raw footage into After Effects, apply the denoiser and adjust, then export the whole thing to a good quality intermediate codec. I’m on the PC so that might be Lagarith or Cineform, similar avi formats. On a Mac, there is ProRes.

I take the cleaned file into Premiere and edit. Interesting tidbit: since the denoising takes so long, and can really interrupt my work schedule, I have in fact edited wedding ceremonies with the noisy footage. Then when I have some available down time, I will denoise the source clip in AE and then use REPLACE in Premiere to swap out the noisy clip for the cleaned clip. All edits stay intact, but are replaced by the nice clean footage.

Hope this helps

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Hi Raymond,

From Premiere, export using the “MPEG-2 DVD” format, and a preset appropriate to the material, and then Import the resulting .m2v and .wav files into Encore. The video will be DVD-compliant and will not need to transcode in Encore.

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Just open a saved project from the Auto-Save folder from in Premiere, or I suppose yes you can probably click on the project file as well. Auto-saved versions are no different than regular project files. The KEY THING TO DO once you are able to open a “good” previous version is to immediately use SAVE AS and save to a different filename and folder, away from Auto-Save folder so it does not get overwritten.

When you do have a problem with your project, it’s a good idea not to let Premiere sit open for an extended time, as the Auto-Save could very well be overwriting a GOOD version with the current BAD timeline. Time is of the essence

Good luck

Jeff

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Hi Craig,

First off, don’t use “Match Settings”. Might seem like a good choice, but it’s not…decide what you want to export for (YouTube, iPad, etc.) and find a good preset under “H.264” for instance, that has the same basic settings as the original clip, such as “1920×1080, 29.97p”.

When you say “De wobble” do you mean Warp Stabilizer? Make sure that the effect is done doing it’s thing before trying to export – it can take quite a while.

Please post a screen shot of the Export Settings

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Hi Keith,

You can reach out to me at email in my original posting

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

I don’t see it as an issue of arm hair – the shirt edge is very clean on the shoulders, but under the arms/sides, the shirt edge is as bad as the inner arm, so I’d say it is a problem with a dark/shadow edge in that area – lack of separation/definition from the background.

Change the lighting to get more light into that area, possibly even from behind.

If you can possibly capture as 4:2:2 rather than camera-native 4:2:0, that extra color resolution will help to get cleaner edges. One way to do that would be to use an outboard recorder such as one from Atomos, or record live output straight to computer using a Black Magic capture device. Besides 4:2:2 color, the video is far less compressed also, just all-around better for keying.

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers