Jeff Pulera
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So sync them manually, been doing it forever that way. Find a common word near beginning of each clip. For my wedding footage it might be the minister saying “Good morning everyone!”. Find that on each clip, line up the hard “G” sound, then zoom in to frame level and manually line up waveforms in audio tracks. Done, takes a couple of minutes.
Also, before you even do that, in Project Bin, right-click video clip and choose Modify > Audio Channels. This can really help reduce excess audio track clutter on the timeline – take that 4 channel audio down to 1 stereo channel if only using stereo before moving clip to timeline, will be much cleaner on timeline. Have to deal with this with Sony .mxf files and I don’t know why in the world they are 4-channel to start with since camera can only record 2 channels at most anyways….
Thanks
Jeff
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers -
Hi Peter,
I’m actually surprised that CS4 can work with current 4K files at all, would not expect the required codecs/compatibility to be there in such old software. I don’t have any answer for the conforming issue, but will note that Premiere does not like .mp3 files very much. Maybe this is just with newer versions, but a lot of users have problems with them.
When you are converting the audio clip, get into the practice of creating .wav files, which are uncompressed and work better with Premiere, rather than .mp3 format which is highly compressed.
Something else to try, though I don’t know how much it might degrade the video, is to convert the entire video clip prior to editing in Premiere. Is Media Encoder included as a stand-alone option with CS4? I don’t recall. If you could convert the source clip to a good quality intermediate codec, you could then edit that new clip in Premiere.
Another option is to convert with the free Handbrake app, creating a new .mp4 file and that should work in Premiere, with audio embedded.
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers -
Hi Mike,
Using Media Browser in Premiere for import, or File > Import?
Best results are had by copying ALL folders/files from SD card to hard drive, keep it all intact, then import with Media Browser.
Most camcorders break AVCHD recordings into 4GB chunks, surprised you have such large files. The above method does properly reconnect such spanned files when you are dealing with them, seamless with no audio or video dropouts at seams.
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers -
Jeff Pulera
June 6, 2018 at 5:40 pm in reply to: Codec and rate for display on domestic monitor in museumHi Bouke – my apologies! In re-reading my post, I can understand why you may have taken it personally. Poor choice of words. Was not my intention at all. By strangers I meant ME, or anybody not knowing which specific player box he has, among other factors.
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers -
Jeff Pulera
June 6, 2018 at 2:41 pm in reply to: Codec and rate for display on domestic monitor in museumHi Mickey,
I’d be looking to the BrightSign player manual to see the specs of what they recommend – that would seem the best course of action. The opinions of strangers on a forum aren’t worth a lot when we don’t know what model of player box you have, what format the source is (1080i, 1080p) etc.
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers -
Jeff Pulera
June 5, 2018 at 6:05 pm in reply to: HyperDeck Studio Mini recording flickering image from laptopHi Ed,
Computers typically do NOT output with correct frame rates for VIDEO, for instance computer display output is 60.00fps rather than the proper 59.94 or 29.97 of video. Also, computers do not output INTERLACED video. So that, coupled with going through various adapters = not good results in recording. Most likely a Progressive signal was changed to Interlaced…or just looked like Interlaced…going to the HyperDeck, thus the flickering.
The HyperDeck is really looking for a video signal from a camcorder or video mixer meeting standard video specs, not a computer display signal. Perhaps try an . mp4 recorder meant to record video gaming screen from computer, usually less than $100 with HDMI input.
Important when recording computer/laptop output that the display resolution at least matches video frame size – either 1280×720 or 1920×1080 – and is not set to some off size like 1680×1050 (as my office PC is to match display).
Maybe look into using NDI (from Newtek) over the network. Free apps with lots of potential! Run NDI Scan Converter on the computer, which will send out the screen contents as NDI over the network. With another computer, you can RECORD using NDI IsoRecorder (records .mov file). Or use free OBS app with NDI plug-in and record NDI stream as .mp4 that way.
Of course there are screen capture apps that be installed directly on the computer, but I realize when you show up to videotape a meeting/event, you don’t always have time/access to that computer to set up and test software. Goes back to using gaming capture box for simplicity via HDMI.
vMix Desktop Capture app (free) – https://www.vmix.com/software/download.aspx
Newtek NDI Tools (free) – https://www.newtek.com/ndi/tools/HDMI recording box example – https://www.avermedia.com/professional/product/cr530/overview
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers -
Also, if you can’t re-shoot and need to fix clip in Premiere, apply color correction and then use KEYFRAMES to alter the color correction over time to hide the dramatic lighting change. I’ve had to do that before myself! In other words, make image brighter at start, then ramp down that brightness correction to “no change” as panned video moves towards proper exposure.
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers -
Hi Carlos,
You must set Exposure (Iris), Gain, Shutter speeds to MANUAL on the camera, which apparently was on AUTO for that scene. What is happening at start of shot is the bright window is prominent in the frame, so camera compensates and makes overall image darker, then as you pan away from bright window and darker room fills more of frame, camera wants to then expose for that scene and opens things up to let more light into camera.
Manually set exposure for darker part of room before you record, then as you move away from bright window, the rest of the room will be properly exposed without image brightness changing as it did.
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers -
Hi Daniel,
What Mark said – the “RT” cards went away years ago. I had DV Storm, Matrox RT.X100 and RT.X2, DPS Velocity, etc. at once time or another. Since computers were SO slow back then, “real-time” effects cards were all the rage. Nobody makes these anymore.
Modern workstations, especially using a Core i7 processor, will handle most duties in real-time, and actually faster since the export often takes less than the duration of the timeline!
I’d not try editing 4K using CS5, as it may not even recognize the codec at all. Could try the free DaVinci Resolve that Mark mentioned, from Black Magic Design. Grass Valley EDIUS is also supposed to be good, test the free trial. Said to need less horsepower than latest Premiere CC, plus there are no ongoing subscription fees. As you have an i5, might provide more bang for the buck!
Whatever editing software you choose, use a dedicated hard drive for the video media, don’t try to run everything off a single C: drive. Get a decent USB 3.0 external drive for instance from Glyph, G-Tech, or LaCie as these are meant for desktop media needs.
Thanks
Jeff
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Hi Jesse,
I read your post 3 times to find the audio issue referenced in the title, but no luck…so do you not have ANY audio in ANY clip, or some clips, or what is the actual audio issue?
Not a Mac user, so potential Sierra issues aside, do make sure you follow this procedure always for importing media from SD cards:
1) Copy ENTIRE contents of SD card to NEW FOLDER on hard drive. Include all folders from SD card, not just video
2) In Premiere, import files using MEDIA BROWSER rather than File > Import method.
3) If files had previously been imported differently, try a NEW PROJECT so previous import does not affect things
If that doesn’t work, then I don’t know
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers