Jeff Carrion
Forum Replies Created
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Just tried that, still rolls.
I tried taking a second output from the Horita to the monitor’s sync in (Sony PVM-14M2U) and taking a loop-thru output from the Beta deck’s Ref input/output to the monitor, no luck.
We’ve been living like this for years, arghh. It’s actually rather embarrasing!
“No TV and no beer make Homer something, something…”
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Wow, we have the eaxct same setup (UVW-1800 w/the Horita) and have the exact same problem!
The output from the Beta deck rolls, weather or not the Horita is on or off. However, even though the OUTPUT rolls, the INPUT (usually from a DSR-45) is stable so the tape does record and playback just fine.
Is this a Sony issue or are we not hooking up the Horita correctly. (We just go out from one of the black-burt outs on the Horita to the Ref. In on the Beta deck.
If it is a Sony issue, how do we fix/adjust it?
“No TV and no beer make Homer something, something…”
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Ahhh, yes, it all makes sense now! Thanks.
Now here’s the million gigabite question: I have a few older systems running FCS1 where I installed the “other” stuff in various places on their scratch disks. Is there a simple/uncomplicated way to re-install the stuff (Soundtrack, Livetype, DVDSP, and Motion media) in the default locations? This would free up all that space on my scratch disks that is being permantly taken up by that content.
“No TV and no beer make Homer something, something…”
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The defaults eh?
I wasn’t sure if having all that media on the system drive would harm performance or cause dropped frames problems, like having regular media on the system drive will.
“No TV and no beer make Homer something, something…”
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Thanks Wayne, I’ll try your settings.
BTW-What exactly does the Preserve Volume box do?
I just check it because without it it really lowers the volume level of the audio. As a matter of procedure, do you increase/decrease your levels before or after you add the compressor? I like to adverage at -12db which usually calls for me to lower my audio track levels by about 10db.
“No TV and no beer make Homer something, something…”
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Thanks for the suggestions, I’ll try playing with the expander and high pass filters.
[sumfun] “3. Use better lavs or lav techniques. Good lavs often have better noise rejectionthan cheaper ones (recommend Sanken COS11 or Countryman B6)”
I don’t think that noise rejection is the issue here. If my talent is standing by a running outboard motor on a boat on a lake with a swift breeze, when he stops taking the lav will pick up the motor and wind noise reguardless of any kind of built-in noise rejection.
[sumfun] “The closer you mount it to your speaker’s mouth, the higher the signal to noise ratio will be. You can also mount them under clothing to reduce some wind noise, but your speaker may sound muffled, too.”
We allways mount the lav at the 2nd button on their shirt point up towards the mouth (about 8-10 inches away from the mouth). We attach hefty wind screens to the lavs and never place them under clothing because of the muffled sound.
[sumfun] “4. Consider using a shotgun mic on a boom, maybe in addition to the lavs.”
No-can-do. We’re a 1-man-crew operation! I’d love to have an audio tech behind me but a 2 man crew cramming into a 12 foot jon boat just isn’t practicle.
“No TV and no beer make Homer something, something…”
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[Wayne Carey] “Well… In tracks where ambience is a real problem, you could send those tracks to SoundTrack Pro to use the noise filter to lower these sounds.”
The problem with going to STP is that ALL of our clips ALWAYS have loud ambience. That would add hours to post production. Besides, roundtripping to STP in FCS 1 is a real pain. It seems that FCS2 has solved a lot of these problems, but we just don’t have it yet.
My typical compressor settigns:
Threshold: -20
Ratio: 4
Attack Time: 1
Release Time: 90
Preserve Volume: Checked“No TV and no beer make Homer something, something…”
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Ben – Russell,
Canon cameras don’t work with FCP if you have external FW drives all plugged into the same FW bus. You need to un-plug your externals and capture to a internal drive. And since an iMac can only have the 1 internal system drive you’re really limited if you have a Canon.
Wayne-
Pretty much all the cheepy palmcorders have iEEE 1394. At least all the ones I looked at do.
And this system is going to be a “work-from-home-1-day-a-week” system with the brunt of my work being done in the office on my main system. My company won’t buy it for me so I gotta come up with the cash myself, otherwise I’d be going all-out.
My other option would be to get the bare-bones Mac Pro tower: 2.0GHZ, 1GB RAM, 250GB HD, all else stock.
“No TV and no beer make Homer something, something…”
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No, Motion isn’t a huge part of what we do. I just don’t want to end up with a system that is slower than the older G5 we are running now.