Jeff Carpenter
1
COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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Yes, it loses a lot.
Is there anywhere else you can go to get this captured and put on a hard drive? It’s certainly possible to key DV footage (we do it here all the time) but it’s a lot harder and takes a lot more work. You have to do a lot more “clean-up” in problem areas working frame to frame.
There’s some of that kind of work in all keying but you’ll be doing more of it with DV compression.
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Just close the game when you’re editing and close Final Cut when you’re gaming!
I can’t think of any conflicts if you stick to those rules.
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Visit this page:
https://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106156
…and search for the section on “Resetting the original administrator account password.”
It involves starting with the CD which you said didn’t work, however. Where did that OS X disc come from? Did come with a different Mac? If that’s the case it will only work with that particular model of machine. You need an OS X disc that either came with the iBook OR an off-the-shelf disc (Tiger, Panther, etc.) as they sell them in stores.
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What version of Qucik Time and what version of Final Cut do you have now?
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Is it possible to buy a new computer for this project? (I don’t know if that’s possible or not).
The new Mac Pros can take multiple video cards. You could put 2 cards in one and run 2 projectors off one card and the 3rd off the 2nd card. It’d be a 3-monitor display which should make it possible to stretch the video over all 3 monitors.
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Go into the System Preferences for OS X, not Final Cut.
Click on ‘ACCOUNTs’
If the lock on the bottom is locked, unlock it. Then click on the ‘Startup Items’ tab.
Is Final Cut in there? Get rid of it if it is. Hopefully this is the solution!
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Stay away from USB2.
Daisy-chaining the firewire will work, but it may occasionally give you some trouble here and there. It’s not a perfect system, but I’ve done it before without any problems for a project here or there.
If you’re looking to save money (and you can wait a little longer) here’s what I’d do: It’s very likely that Apple is going to update the Macbook Pro to Core 2 Duo chips in the next few weeks. (Maybe even next week, but obviously that could change.)
If I were you, I’d wait for that to happen and then wait another day or two. Keep checking the refurbished section on the online Apple store for the current, Core 1 Duo Macbook Pros at that point. Right NOW you can get one there for $1,549 and the price is bound to come down more once newer versions are available.
With the Macbook Pro you can buy an adapter card and add on another FW 400 or 800 port that’s seperate from the one already on the computer. Plus, you won’t have to get that glossy screen.
The Macbook will probably work for what you want to do. If that fits your budget better, you can do it. I just thought I’d suggest this alternative.
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I have never actually used Carbon Copy although I’ve heard lots of people suggest it in the past.
I would suggest that you wait and see if anyone else can respond to this post who has actually used CC. As far as I KNOW, you’ll only have to make the copy and you’ll be good to go.
But like I said, I’ve never done it. If someone else comes along with more knowledge on the subject that might be better. I’m pretty sure that what I’ve told you is 100% right, it’s just that I’ve never DONE it myself. If no one writes back I’d suggest trying it, but you might as well wait a day and see if anything else gets mentioned.
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You’re going to get stuck. You can’t make your new drive the primary startup disk without OS X installed on it and if you install OS X on that drive now it will erase everything you’ve just copied to it.
There’s a couple of different ways to go about this, but I’d suggest getting Carbon Copy:
https://www.bombich.com/software/ccc.htmlMake sure everything is still ok on your old drive, then erase the new drive. Use carbon copy to clone the A drive onto the B drive. At this point, create a folder on the “A” drive. Because both drives SHOULD be the same at this point, you should make a folder on drive “A” so you can be certain which drive you’re looking at from now on.
Then go into system preferences and pick “Startup Disk.” Restart using the other drive. Check for that folder you made, if you restarted correctly it should no longer be there! If you can restart and you can determine that everything works, you can then use Disk Utility (in APPLICATIONS/UTILITIES) to erase the “A” drive.
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Yeah, this isn’t a re-used tape issue. You should get your camera cleaned or this will come up again, even on a new tape.
The best bet is to find a repair shop that does cleaning. If you’re in a pinch, you can buy a mini-DV cleaning tape. They get the job done but they’re not so great for the camera. It’s a good idea to own one anyway. If you’re actually ON a job it’s better to get the job done rather than just giving up or recording glitchy footage.
And mini-DV tapes are perfectly fine to use more than once. You WILL eventually run into trouble if you keep re-using them, but 2 or 3 times is perfectly fine. I’ve gone through a few hundred mini-DV tapes and use each one about 3 times. The only problems I’ve ever had were directly related to camera heads needing cleaning…when I have had a problem it effects new and used tapes alike. I’ve not yet run across an issue that ONLY appeared on a used tape. Just keep track of which tape is which so you don’t end up using one a dozen times by accident.