[Gary Huff]

[Anthony DeRose] “To confirm – on those camera’s where I can set the shutter to angle instead of speed I don’t have to make any change when adjusting frame rate, since the camera will automatically compensate?”

That is correct, you will always have twice your frame rate as the shutter speed if you set it to 180 degrees on the Mark II. However, I gave up on 180 a long time ago with mine, now I always shoot in 1/60 for everything, though when doing slow motion (60p or 120) I try to set at 1/120 or 1/250, as this will eliminate potential issues with flicker from LED sources (usually practicals on location in the background). Only issue I have is with cheapo eBay LED lights (say for a stage) in which I have to set ClearScan to something ridiculous (and also the backlit keyboard on the 2013-2015 MacBook Pros which flicker at anything other than 50Hz).

[Gary Huff]

[Tom Laughlin] “I’m assuming Premiere Pro will (w/ their built-in encoder) encode the best or highest quality file just fine. (I normally output out of Premiere for everything, but haven’t done a ton of recent encoding for DVDs, so).”

That’s an assumption that matches my experience. Back in the FCP7 days, I would have people provide me a ProRes 422 export to encode into MPEG-2 with AME because they were unhappy with the quality of the encodes from Compressor 4. These days, they all do a comparable level of quality.

[Gary Huff]

[Doug Metz] “This sounds like perfectly normal, heavy-handed compression.”

Completely agree, noise doesn’t translate well into the low bitrate codec that YouTube will stream back out, which is why I would never, ever, ever add something like film grain that is going to live on any streaming platform. It’s counter-productive.

[Gary Huff]

[Bouke Vahl] “Make sure your sound is 192 Khz at least, or it will be horrible and unaudible.”

I don’t know if you meant Khz, which is absolutely not true at all, you should stick with 48Khz, or if you meant Mbps, which is also not true. For voice, you can go as low as 96Kbps, but 160 is more than enough if your audio track is just talking and no music.

[Gary Huff]

XF-AVC, MP4, or Cinema Raw Lite?

[Gary Huff]

You can export a 10-bit H.265 (HEVC) from Compressor, but not H.264 (AVC). If your LG TV has HEVC support, then I would export using that.

[Gary Huff]

[Ingólfur Arnar Björnsson] “What are the cheapest 128GB cards that work flawlessly with 10bit 4:4:2 400mbps recording on the GH5.”

They don’t exist. Buy Sandisk.

[Gary Huff]

[john sharaf] “For one thing Lexar no longer makes the 3600x cards, presumably because of the high failure rate.”

That’s not a misstatement or an inaccuracy of mine, John.

[john sharaf] “ARRI could care less about the money they make selling media”

That’s not a misstatement or inaccuracy, John. That’s your personal opinion.

[john sharaf] “No one is out to get you or unreasonably profit from you. “

There are people who are out to profit. Your statement is, on its own merits, incorrect. It may or may not include executives at ARRI, but you literally just said, “No one”. You can leave the hyperbole out of it.

[john sharaf] “To state a fact, the most reliable (and coincidentally the most expensive) media is that made by CODEX and that’s why ARRI, Canon and Panasonic all collaborate with them on their high end cameras”

I said that ARRI has chosen Sandisk for its certified CFast cards. So that is not a misstatement or an inaccuracy of mine, John. Why did you open your post with, “I should have given up on you a long rime ago, but I’m compelled to correct the misstatements and inaccuracies you continue to state” and then not do any of that?

[Gary Huff]

The Magic Mouse you would get if you go into an Apple Store or Best Buy today, in 2019, will have one internal battery that you charge. You don’t change batteries in it. Other than that, if you don’t want any sort of battery at all, you have to go for a wired mouse only, and in that case, literally any wired mouse will do. Go put your hands on some and buy the one you find most comfortable.

[Gary Huff]

So what I’m hearing is that ARRI representatives claim that 1/4 of Sandisk CFast cards fail, and yet they will sell you the same Sandisk CFast card that they have certified, at a much higher cost and if it fails, they’ll just replace the card? Something tells me that the 25% number may be exaggerated, since there is financial gain by spreading a bit of FUD, and clearly Sandisk CFast cards are what ARRI chose to sell their more expensive “now thoroughly tested!” versions, not Lexar or Angelbird.