Fred Jodry
Forum Replies Created
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Bob, do it the easy way.
1. Step one, take your Windows boot drive, label it with a written on piece of tape and put it on the side (or duplicate it if you want a spare).
2. Step two, take the remaining (pair?) of drives, zero them out, label them too, then take them to a friend`s computer where firmware or good software awaits to prepare them for RAID formatting of the RAID type you need. Then do it and return. You can even prepare this RAID formatting of about- to- be- Windows drives on a Mac easily!
3. Step three, Take your boot drive and new RAID set and miscellaneous DVD drives and toss them back in. But if you have tape drives about to go back in leave them for a later step lest they get mixed into the hard drives RAID. Go to the BIOS and set it from IDE to AHCI. Use “My Computer?” in Windows to then reformat the RAID set from generically RAID to formatted for Windows and still RAID. The read descriptions on the monitor will usually mark the RAID set as a single drive unless you look closely. If this doesn`t work right away then move the cables order “willy nilly”, scribble a few notes and try again. My motherboard seems to want to make early or low number or letter drives as RAID drives and later ones as the boot drive and other uses but the documentation and BIOS directions are feeble. Nonetheless do it. You might have to rename drive letters in “My Computer”. -
If exFAT retains the advantages of FAT32 then it is a winner. The Windows XP version of NTFS is an example of storage that really stinks. The difference in speed in typical situations is around 20% and in video production might be far worse than that. Even if you use an SSD hard drive instead of a regular one you`ll see some difference, and when you want to back up to tape, Oh brother!
HFS+ might be not too bad but I don`t have the research. -
If exFAT retains the advantages of FAT32 then it is a winner. The Windows XP version of NTFS is an example of storage that really stinks. The difference in speed in typical situations is around 20% and in video production might be far worse than that. Even if you use an SSD hard drive instead of a regular one you`ll see some difference, and when you want to back up to tape, Oh brother!
HFS+ might be not too bad but I don`t have the research. -
Ghettoing the newbies is not a good idea. Sooner or later someone will come along and try to force them to stay in that hole.
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Brian, maybe this: (This is a guess).
Populate most of the drive bay in matched sets of 4 drives.
Make the whole group Raid 10.
This is the experimental part, You can try when the box is completely unpowered to see if you can pull high numbered sets of 4 drives out an inch in the bay for later expansion. This would be to save mostly electricity.
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If you don`t need premium speed then put drives in in pairs and use the array as RAID 1. One advantage is that each lineup of drives of the 2 can be pulled (or exchanged to the other side) and used j.b.o.d. although in a string in a rescue if the RAID box has a catastrophe. -
Steve and Bob, the following might be a possibility,
Step 1. Go to otherworldcomputing.com. Buy a Mercury Elite Pro Qx2 box (not other model). Fill it not with hard drives (or better yet, SSD hard drives) but with attachments to favorite tape backup drives so you can backup and restore RAID 10 tape workflow. Hand- labelling is a must.
Step 2. (Step 2 gets done before step 1 but has to be planned together). Pick, buy a nice (little) SSD.
Hints and tricks: If you need a small Sata II SSD I just bought a pair of OWC Mercury Extreme Pro SSDs. They were EVERYTHING promised. If you need bigger good SSDs hitch your attention to some of the exchanges in the ARRIDIGITAL website. Most of the SSD hard drives you don`t run across in these 2 places are fraudulent hybrid performance junk that`s not worth it. I haven`t done my own step 1 above so check feasibility and ask more questions. -
There`s also Harry Boettcher, 60 Hahn Avenue, Roselle Park, New Jersey 07662. VERY good on weak or problem recordings.
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One reason is for air-checks. Another reason is to steal back stolen masters.
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Gustavo, most mother-boards work but unfortunately it`s a four-way association between the mother-board bios, the LHe card, the Operating System, the added software, and possibly on- the- board jumpers that usually work around the bios settings. Also the video card is often prone to sucking in the audio path because some idiot designer left little or no path remaining to route in the right direction. Just for story, I just bought a Asrock mother-board for $29 to replace another of the Same company`s for $19 and got the sound working right away so that I wouldn`t have to replace the Operating System and software to what I didn`t like. Still, tap the F1 to F4 keys and the Delete key, at start-up from cold until you are in the bios and try the obvious things like turn internal sound on during regular install then turn internal sound completely off (not auto?) just before installing the Kona card and it`s software.
Although I doubt it`ll work, you might see if you can use an alternate video card in a pci slot temporarily when installing the Kona card then switch back. -
Joella, make a personal notebook with every Alexa workflow you can run across (even defective or incomplete but say so) then pencil smiles, frowns, and in- between smirks according to what the practicality seems to be. Just as important, when you become a D.I.T., keep your own passable stock of cables, software and more cleverly suitcased with blue gaffers tape or other stealables so that if you see wrong people in your company or not, using them, you`ll know who steals things. Considering that your job is to fill both sound and pictures you`ll be in demand and appreciated. There are millions of other details so I`ll let everyone else take a turn typing.