[Emre Tufekcioglu]

Some people use Arri Alexa Raw in camera and use Ninja for Proxy, I use my Arri Alexa internally to do ProRez on the SxS and do Arriraw on the Q7. A lot of my stuff is good enough on the SxS at ProRez 4444 and rarely need Arriraw. Cheaper to buy Q7 than upgrade the module.

[Emre Tufekcioglu]

Thanks Todd,

It’s always good to know what other people are doing to see if we can draw benefits from their experience.

[Emre Tufekcioglu]

Its interesting to hear you prefer Canon .MXF files Todd and AVI out. I have nothing against it, it just seems ProRez seems to be more common choice. I have an Alexa in house and only shoot ProRez and keep the same workflow all the way to the end.

Any strengths or weaknesses to that workflow?

[Emre Tufekcioglu]

Your best bet is to go with a Arri Amira, same imager and recording quality as an alexa but built for documentary work. 1 man operation if needed, shoulder mount.

You can downgrade the footage to make it look like anything you want.

That’s what we did, fantastic results.

[Emre Tufekcioglu]

Amira premiums are $55K for the body, probably another $15-$30K based on the accessories you need. A good lens to complement them is the Fuji Cabrio which is $38K.

Alexa Classic is around $90K with accessories but no lens.

And yes there are many owners.

[Emre Tufekcioglu]

We have a Movi but at this current time it is no steadicam replacement. I cant fly my Alexa Classic on a movi but can probably fly the new Alexa mini. Not buying that just yet 🙂

[Emre Tufekcioglu]

Hi Todd,

This is a fake posting. “Dennis Rodman” is one of the fake names he uses to post multiple reviews about his company. He creates multiple accounts with different names and writes fake response/back and forth exchanges with himself praising his companies products. He is all over the net.

[Emre Tufekcioglu]

Here is a good start:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqq8QKMmtYg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ht4Mv2wIRyQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBKDjLeNlsQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v96yhEr-DWM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71suMbKdbXQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7T4dMPAaw70
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLt-ifd9k3Q

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[Emre Tufekcioglu]

Doug Harts book is very good:

https://www.filmtools.com/camashar.html

and you should also check out this blog:

https://www.theblackandblue.com/

[Emre Tufekcioglu]

Its hard to identify exactly what is causing it without samples but let me try to simply a few of the elements that cause issues with lenses:

-Breathing: This is when performing a focus rack framing changes. More prominent with with zoom lenses and low end lenses. high end cinema lenses do not have this problem.

-MTF (Modulation transfer function) caused by physical limitations of glass, more prominent in low end glass, less in high end but everything has a MTF.(your eyes, your glasses, your car window…etc) Causes loss of sharpness, contrast.

-Bokeh style. Low end lenses will display bokeh in the shape of the iris where high end lenses will display the bokeh as perfect circles.

-Chromatic Aberration. Causes purple and yellow fringing in high contrast areas. Newer cameras have CAC correction software but still high end lenses will suffer less. More prominent in long end of the lenses (zoomed in)

-Barrel distortion with aberrations. Causes fringing/discoloration and vignetting around the circumference of the lens.

-Uncoated lenses (or intentionally stripped): Light will bounce around the lens cause flaring. See saving private ryan.

-High impedance air gap. You forgot to plug in your lights. Causes black frames. 🙂