Forum Replies Created

Page 1 of 10
  • Doyle Lewis

    February 1, 2024 at 1:26 am in reply to: sing along bouncing ball
  • Doyle Lewis

    July 31, 2020 at 6:58 pm in reply to: How do i use an adjustment layer for both eyes?

    don’t forget to remove the parenting from the adjustment layer and add it to the solid layer when you try it

    Doyle Lewis,
    Assistant Location Manager
    Warner Brother Pictures

  • Doyle Lewis

    July 31, 2020 at 6:55 pm in reply to: How do i use an adjustment layer for both eyes?

    That is a tough question. I am not sure exactly how that effect works on stacked masks. Have you tried copying those masks to a solid layer and taking them off your adjustment layer and then setting the adjustment layer to alpha matte the new solid layer? if the problem persists when you do that then there is some funny business going on that isn’t in the screenshot.

    Doyle Lewis,
    Assistant Location Manager
    Warner Brother Pictures

  • Doyle Lewis

    January 19, 2020 at 5:13 pm in reply to: C4D tutorials

    Like Graham said Grey scale Gorilla is the one to go with. In my mind they are the definitive place to learn C4D.

    https://greyscalegorilla.com/tutorials/

    For AE our man Andrew Kramer is the guy for Tuts. His website is video copilot.

    https://www.videocopilot.net/tutorials/

    In my opinion both of these sites do a better job of teaching not just techniques but philosophies of compositing that you don’t see even on the paid sites like Linda and the like.

    Doyle Lewis,
    Assistant Location Manager
    Warner Brother Pictures

  • Sorry it didn’t embed here is just the link

    youtu.be/d39ndbb1Vf0

  • I thought the video file may help demonstrate how it works better than the image:

    Doyle Lewis,
    Assistant Location Manager
    Warner Brother Pictures

  • Although a glow effect I think is in the right direction I think what you are asking is for it to look more metallic. A good way to do this is through an effect called CC glass. CC glass uses a layer as a bump layer to choose shiny and flat parts of your image and allows you to put in a false light to choose the directionality of the light source.

    To achieve this I have made a file where I used Colorama to proceduraly create a CMY bump map from whatever footage you would want to use based off luminance and remaps it to CMY map. Then I used that map to drop in CC Glass and played with the adjustments and the light till i got something interesting. Most importantly though I did 2things:

    Turned surface-> height to negative
    Adjusted all my shading settings up and down to get the contrast and roughness in the shine the way I wanted

    Right now CC wont let me upload the project file but when it can I will. Please let me know if you have any questions about how to do it

    Doyle Lewis,
    Assistant Location Manager
    Warner Brother Pictures

  • Doyle Lewis

    June 28, 2019 at 12:43 pm in reply to: .obj file

    Depending on the photos you will get mixed results but it is sounding like you want to 3D scan your images? if so then I would suggest Meshroom. Link for download below:
    https://alicevision.github.io/#meshroom

    It is usually used for Smaller Objects but I found that it tends to do pretty well with relatively flat surfaces of walls and doors and such, so it should work as long as your pictures are good. Shiny windows or really bright or dark areas may mess it up but that would be true of any 3D scanning app. The nice thing is that it makes a really high density mesh and attaches the texture from a composite of your images that it puts together itself, so you get a really nice high quality texture from it to and don’t have to project your texture.

    Here s a video from a presentation where the presenter shows how he makes an almost painting looking image using C4d and Meshroom. Near the end of the video he shows the meshroom process.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0f1LLlpTVj8

    Doyle Lewis,
    Assistant Location Manager
    Warner Brother Pictures

    Some contents or functionalities here are not available due to your cookie preferences!

    This happens because the functionality/content marked as “Google Youtube” uses cookies that you choosed to keep disabled. In order to view this content or use this functionality, please enable cookies: click here to open your cookie preferences.

  • Doyle Lewis

    June 24, 2019 at 1:09 pm in reply to: Custom Lightsaber – Start Point and End Point

    Use the 2 points of data as a position and scale track maybe and loose the puppet tool entirely? that would be my best guess without seeing the project myself.

    Doyle Lewis,
    Assistant Location Manager
    Warner Brother Pictures

  • Doyle Lewis

    June 24, 2019 at 12:40 pm in reply to: Zoomed In + Tracked Video Inset

    Hello Zach,

    This is actually pretty simple once you know how to do it.

    To start you need to bring your footage in a new comp and duplicate it so you have 2 copies. Then add a null layer on top. Select the top copy of your footage and the null object and pre-compose it. Open up the pre-comp and right click the footage and choose Track motion. For this all you need is a single tracker, so leave rotation and scale unchecked, since neither is super important for what you want, you just want the camera to stick to the object. place your tracker on the object you want to follow and in the tracker options choose edit target. Change the target to the null object. Then let the tracker track through the footage through all the frames where your object is visible, correcting the track as necessary. Once it is all tracked to your satisfaction (remember it doesn’t have to be perfect, just close enough. Too much micro-tweaking and your footage will be jumpy) then hit apply. This will put your track data to the null.

    You will now see the little red box from the null follows your object around the scene. Now what we want to do is move the footage frame the exact opposite of the way your object moves so that your object remains stationary in the composition frame. To achieve this we will alt+click the stopwatch of the position of the footage and put in this expression
    [640-thisComp.layer("Null 1").transform.position[0],359-thisComp.layer("Null 1").transform.position[1]]
    If you renamed your null you will have to change or pickwhip the null part of the expression. Your footage will now jump somewhere around the screen, depending on where your object is it may even jump off the screen. to fix this you will need to use the pan-behind tool and grab the anchorpoint of your footage and move it around until the object you tracked is somewhere near the center of the composition frame. When you play the footage now you will see that the object remains in the center of the comp frame as the footage moves around in the frame to keep it there.

    The last step is to get your picture in picture set up. So go to your outside composition and take the pre-comp you made and scale it up to have your object the size you want it in the frame. Then draw a mask around it in such a way that the frame edge doesn’t ever cut into the mask, you will probably have to just watch it and trail and error it a bit until it looks good all the way through the shot. Then place your new box in whatever corner or part of the screen looks best. If you want to add a border you can drop the generate stroke effect on top of it and choose a color and line thickness to create your border.

    Hope that helps

    Doyle Lewis,
    Assistant Location Manager
    Warner Brother Pictures

Page 1 of 10

We use anonymous cookies to give you the best experience we can.
Our Privacy policy | GDPR Policy