Doug Fish
Forum Replies Created
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Yes, that is the HDBaseT HDMI converter I am using.
No, I have not attempted to use it as an input, but I would assume that it would work fine. However, I would also consider getting an HDMI to SDI converter and use SDI (which is just your standard RG-59 cable with BNC connectors) for long distances.
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No expert here, just a guy who has had to learn a little. But I think the Digital XLR output is 110 ohms, and the ATEM expects 75 ohms.
I have no idea how that impedance mismatch or the “unbalanced” characteristic of the XLR cable will affect the transmission of the digital signal or the resulting sound. Can you experiment for us and find out?
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Find out your projector model and check its specs online. Despite its native resolution, the projector will likely handle/convert a 1080i signal, unless it is really old. Having said that, we have two projectors, one bought ~8 years ago and one bought ~4 months ago. The newer one accepts 1080i fine, while the older one doesn’t (although it is spec’d to handle 1080i–I get an image for a tenth of a second or some green screen, but mostly I get a blank screen). Ironically, the older one probably cost $10,000 way back then, while the newer one went for $360!
In eyefinity, your graphics card is driving 3 monitors. You can set each of the three monitors to whatever resolution works in extended mode. In clone mode, you have to keep the resolution of the cloned monitor.
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I’m impressed you got 60′ of HDMI cable to feed the ATEM TVS at all. I had trouble with anything over 15′ without a booster.
Basically, you need to be able to feed 3 displays: Your control display, your feed to the ATEM, and your overhead feed. You can do that with an AMD Radeon graphics card with Eyefinity support, but you will need an active displayport to HDMI (or displayport to VGA) adapter. If the feed to the ATEM and the overhead can be the same, you just need to split the signal between the two.
You might also want to look into HDBaseT as an alternative to HDMI cable. Monoprice has an HDBaseT HDMI extender that I am using now to extend HDMI 175′ using a single Cat6 cable (sending program out from ATEM to HDTV’s in hallway/nursery/multipurpose room in our church–after the extenders, I have a splitter and then up to 40′ more with HDMI cable). Have had it in place a little over a month. It has worked perfectly thus far.
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Danhugh, it’s here. The new software released just last week (2.7.1) brought SD support.
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Here’s our latest sermon. Keep in mind, we are learning, and I didn’t have a cameraman for the first 15 minutes or so, so it’s a wide shot. Also, this doesn’t demonstrate the sync since I had to manipulate the source file with avidemux to keep it from getting unsynced when it is transcoded by vimeo. But I promise you the source video was in sync, or darn close to it!
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It’s dead, Jim.
The good news is it should still be under warranty.
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1. The question is not whether you will have audio delay and video delay; you will. The right question is how much delay, and how well they match up. In most circumstances, video delay will be greater than audio delay, since the data that needs to be processed is much, much greater.
I am currently feeding the ATEM TVS with 2 cameras and 1 computer, all via HDMI. The video *might* lag slightly behind the audio feed, but unless you are looking hard for it it is unnoticeable.
Delay is added whenever you have to convert/process an audio or video signal. Since people are using ATEM mini-converters and the built-in analog to digital converters of the 1 M/E, they are creating more lag in the video. That’s why I’m keeping all my inputs as HDMI. I imagine the guys over at studiotechtv were mixing their inputs, which caused video delay. I thought I might need to correct video delay in my setup, but it hasn’t been a problem.
My problem of late has been that the mp4 that the ATEM TVS produces will create a file that is synced; I can create a smaller file to upload to vimeo via Adobe Premiere Elements that is synced; but when I upload it, when it is transcoded by vimeo the audio and video are no longer in time. The reason it does this is a little beyond my understanding, but I think I’ve resolved this by splicing the file using avidemux, which caused the audio and video de-sync to manifest itself, then adding a half-second delay to the audio to get it back in sync. I’ll link the uploaded file in a little bit.
2. Stereo.
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To put it simply, you will have video delay and audio delay, and the question is how do the two match up. In most situations it is the video that has the greater delay due to the exponentially greater conversion and processing load required of video as compared to audio. Synchronization of the audio and video is thus something you may have to obtain using additional hardware, specifically an audio delay device.
In addition to the advice suggested above about framerate and resolution matching of your sources, I would also make sure you are feeding the ATEM the professional format (AES/EBU) from your AJA unit. I’ve read where feeding it S/PDIF actually gives audio, but since the bits are not exactly what the ATEM is expecting it may cause problems.
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VP, I did a lot of experimentation before I found a solution for my setup that allowed me to use HDMI for all my cameras. I was able to get a Panasonic SD800K to work over 31′ of HDMI by using the following configuration:
Camera>10′ mini-HDMI to HDMI cable, 30 ga.>passive HDMI booster>15′ HDMI cable, 24 ga.>active HDMI booster>6′ HDMI cable, 24 ga.>ATEM TVS
By putting an active booster on the camera end after the 10′ cable, and a passive booster on the TVS end, I had success with a 30′ HDMI cable, 24 ga. and could send the signal a total of 41′. I would imagine you could daisy chain active boosters and HDMI lengths, but at some point that would be cumbersome since you have to find a power source multiple times along the run. For my setup, I wanted the passive booster on the camera end because this was a wall mounted camera and I didn’t want to clutter the install up with another piece of equipment that required power.
I had a horrible time with mini-HDMI to HDMI adapters. Apparently there is too much signal loss in making the connections. Anything over 6′ with an HDMI adapter would fail to provide a signal. Ironically, the 30 ga. mini-HDMI to HDMI cables at 10′ and 15′ work without a hitch.
I think a big variable in whether you will get a signal or not without boosting the signal is something you will not find any technical specifications on whatsoever, and that is the strength of the HDMI signal being sent from the video source. I think some cameras are engineered to amplify the signal, and some (like the Panasonic high-end consumer camcorders I am using) are not.
Hope that helps.