Dominic Deacon
Forum Replies Created
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Thanks for that. Got the problem solved!
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If that’s the case I guess I just don’t understand the pricing on branded units full stop. If the parts are worth $3k why pay $6k? I know I paid about $4k for mine. Its got two 1080ti, 64gbs of ram, a 24 core threadripper, harddrives and solid state drives. It’s going to be significantly more powerfully than that Mac for any taskI can think of. I paid a pro $50 to put it together so didn’t have to spend that hour on it myself. I guess my warranties aren’t as great but under Australian consumer law that’s no issue (the time frame set by the manufacturer really counts for not a lot here. It’s about reasonable expectation).
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Great insight Ronny. Can I ask why such facilities are running Macs in the first place? It’s just something I’m trying to understand. As Linus points out, the premium on the base model Mac Pro is almost two times the cost of the parts. I imagine the costs will scale on the more expensive Macs to be twice as expesive for the upper level models as well.
When the only difference is an operating system, why spend two times as much to run professional software? Particularly given the options on the PC side- for instance Intel processors at the high end often don’t make a lot of sense as a purchase next to a Threadripper, nVidia GPUs are typically far superior, etc. It seems to me they are paying a huge premium to for less options.
As someone who spends all day working in 3DS Max and similar applications, and only moments interacting with the operating system, I’ve never really considered the operating system as a key element.
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The schadenfruede is strong. As mentioned above the old plans are still there. This is just upping the 50mb included in the old plan to 1tb and charging an extra $10 for the priveledge. Which I can’t say I’m sold on but someone out there maybe would want that.
However, a price rise eventually is inevitable and I can’t say it bothers me and I don’t feel tied to Adobe by my intellectual property. Other programs can open PSDs without issue and old photoshop files are not really something you go back to a huge amount anyway. I guess sometimes I’ll jump back to one to grab some colour grading but that’s once a month and I wouldn’t cry if I didn’t have access. And it’s not Adobe will just dump Lightroom as Apple did with their alternative in that space.
Frankly, I could jump ship at any time if there was somewhere to jump ship to. In the case of photoshop I don’t think there is for my uses.
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The “P” key toggles between before and after.
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Yup it’s right there next to the split screen toggle. It’s a button with an image of two arrows facing opposite directions in the bottom right hand corner.
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Dominic Deacon
January 11, 2019 at 8:32 pm in reply to: suggestions for manual correction and method of portraits taken with 35mm lens?Why don’t you think the Zeiss would work indoors? I guess you need a bit of room for 135mm but I would much prefer to be taking portraits with that than a 55mm lens.
I’m not versed in Affinity at all but a couple versions back adobe added a Face Aware Liquify mode for specifically this. I guess this doesn’t help you at all but Affinity does seem to try to mimic new photoshop features so hopefully you’ll have it soon and for others having the same issues it’s an excellent solution. On the right hand side of the Liquify panel you have sliders for the size of all facial objects which Photoshop has identified automatically. It works amazingly well and as a portrait photographer no one has ever picked that I’ve enlarged their eyes, shrunk their nose and brought up their chin.
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After you click on the crop tool look at the bar at the top that has your crop ratios. There will be three boxes.
One that has the overall ratio, say 2:3 (4:6).
Then a second that has the vertical ratio, 2 in this example.
And a third that has the horizontal ratio, 3 in this example.Clicking the arrows inbetween the second and third boxes will invert ratio and so make your crop vertical. Or alternatively you can just put your own values in the boxes. ie switch the 2 and the 3 around.
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Getting a 100% perfect selection can’t often be done. What you need to do is make your selection (i’d probably be using the “colour range” tool from the “select” menu for this) and then apply that selection as a mask. After that any areas that have been mistakenly masked out you just paint over that part of the mask with a white brush. This will brush them back into your image.
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Yup. Sorry. Had “toolbar” in my head from your subject line. Tools it is.