David Donnenfield
Forum Replies Created
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So, it sounds like the most versatile way to keep this is as a huge file that then gets rendered into progressive, interlaced, 720, DV, Flash, whatever? And with it centered in such a big file, one can then position it anywhere on the screen no problem?
Thanks for one last clarification,
David -
Thanks mucho, Arnie, for the fast fix.
David -
Barry,
You’re the second person who has recommended upgrading my version of FCP. I’m going to start there but also investigate the Raylight solution you suggest. Thanks,
David -
Chris,
If you look at my previous post, you’ll see that I blew off the MXO as a solution. I’m taking the signal to the CD from my Kona card, that way I can still keep my two timeline monitors active through the graphics card. Just needed to purchase AJA,s HDP mini-converter. Still cost $350 less than the MXO and doesn’t use up a card slot on the Mac. Apparrently provides an excellent image, Promax says better than the DeckLink product. Thanks for your two cents — priceless, as they say.
David -
Thanks everyone for the great input, without even a hint of derision. Here’s what I have decided to go with (maybe it will help someone else):
Apple 23″ Cinema Display $854 from ProMax
Aja HDP mini-converter that takes the SDI signal from my Kona LH card and pumps it into the DVI interface of the Apple display. $680 with power supply from ProMax.I can, as someone suggested, continue to use my Sony 8045Q 13″ studio monitor for color checking, albeit with a downconverted image, also through the Kona card.
Not quite as sweet as a 24″ JVC HD monitor, but not $4,000 either. Thanks for all the assistance in helping me make my room HD functional. Once again, bovine to the rescue.
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But John, do you also have two timeline/bin monitors running simultaneously with the Cinema Display and MXO? Is it no problem to have all three monitors running, or is there a DVI port limitation somewhere in this configuration limiting you to two monitors?
Thanks,
David -
I like this solution. Maybe pairing the Decklink, Kona along with an Eizo LCD I can get a system that also serves for color correction. But with your suggestion, I’m only out a Decklink and not needing to install a $500 graphics card in my only remaining slot.
JUst let me ask, do you have this arrangement for your system? How is the performance? No stutters, delays, or other annoyances to picture?
Thanks,
David -
Thanks, Tom, for sharing your knowledge.
All the best,
David -
Thanks for the quick response.
So, as I understand it, what you’re doing then is “cheating” SD by mechanically or electronically getting more out of it than it is originally designed to do — the widescreen aspect. Yes?And as far as my editing monitor is concerned, it can “unsqueeze” the anamorphic image (although it’s displayed letterbox because it’s a 4:3 tube) because it has special electronics that can handle the anamorphic signal (or pixels?)? Is this true of new consumer TVs that are widescreen? Do they recognize whether a signal is conventional or anamorphic and display it to its best advantage?
Lastly, any reason not to playback this anamorphic material full widescreen, rather than letterbox ON THE WEB, other than maybe its larger file size?
Thanks again,
David