Hi Jack
Well, you’re pretty much correct in your findings; you’re not going to find the recording device with everything you’ve described and in that price range.
I have an M-Audio Microtrack II, which has balanced inputs w/48v power, switchable mic/line, but are not XLRs; they’re 1/4″ phone jacks. It records up to 24bit/96K, but has meters with no numbers and probably feels as cheap as the Zoom H4. I got it mostly to provide transcriptions for producers.
It seems everybody-and-their-brother is coming out with these small recording devices, most lacking something a professional would want. The bottom line is that you’re most likely not going to find something that has XLRs and a built-in mic.
Probably the overall best one out there, is the Sony PCM-D1. But it’s $1,800! You might as well get the Sound Devices 702 and use your own mics. Sony does have another one out…the PCM-D50 at $599 (or less). Again, probably the best built one in that price range but not all the features you want.
Hopefully this helps.