Colin Mcquillan
Forum Replies Created
-
Hello Chris –
To clarify – I currently have two G-Speed es units stripped together into a single RAID 5 configuration using the 4 port esata RAID controller card that shipped with it.
I will be upgrading my Mac Pro to the new turbine once it ships – and hoping I can still use this drive stack and not have to scrap it to buy a new one! If I have to re-stripe it, so be it – all of my data is backed up.
If it does work with the external enclosure – this would also open up the possibility of mounting it to my Macbook Pro as well – Bonus!
I am hoping someone one out there has successfully mounted the card and the gspeed es units with an external PCI to Thunderbolt box.
If the card is not compatible with the external enclosures – then I am open to explore other options such as the alternatives I listed in the hopes I can use the gspeed es stacks.
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C. -
No Lhe support 🙁
Card still works great – too bad it has been shelved.
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C. -
Needless to say that left a very sour taste in my mouth.. Felt like they reached right into my wallet and pinched a couple hundred bucks from me.. Makes me cringe every year or two when I have to shovel over more $$ their way.
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C. -
I first called a few days ago do deal with my issue… They told me it would be 2 business days before I heard back.. I waited until this morning and called them to see where it was at.. the result of that conversation is above..
Why do they insist on making these types of promotions soo difficult – it only hurts their reputation (and in some cases my pocketbook).
It reminds me of when Adobe screwed me out of ~$200 a few years ago.. They ran a promotion for a FCS cross-grade to I believe CS2 or 3 Production Premium. The deal was purchase the suite and get I believe it was a $200 rebate in the mail once you provide them with a copy of your FCS serial #.
I did so and never heard back.. I started making calls and eventually got either a call or email stating my claim could not be processed. After more calls I was finally told someone else had registered a cross-grade with my FCS #. I told them whomever did, did so fraudulently as I was the owner of that number and could prove so with my original sales receipts or anything else they needed… After another call or two they changed the tune to tell me because i was located in Canada I was not eligible for the rebate… even though I bought the product in the “NORTH AMERICAN” store and nowhere did it say the offer was only valid in the US. I then offered them an address I have in San Diego which led to more run around after that.. I eventually abandoned the quest for the $200 as at that point it had already cost me so much time, effort and aggravation.
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C. -
[David Tunnell] “Try clearing your browser cache and the try the link again, if you get to the page that asks you to choose your country and store, then choose the first option, then click upgrade from for your product. When I did that I got the upgrade with the $0.00 total.”
Yeah.. did all that – cleared my cache, cookies… made sure I was going to the right store… Nothing worked. As I mentioned above, the service rep created a new order for CS6 Production Premium in my account. I now see the order in my profile, but the D/L link is not active. He said it would be 5-7 days before the order would clear…
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C. -
Having the same issue (currently on hold with customer support) My e-mail link took me to a page stating the code was invalid.
After an initial call to support a few days ago and exhausting all of the steps laid out in the support page for this issue:
adobe.com/go/pa
I contacted support again.Support has come back on the line and their resolution was to place a new order for the product and now I have to wait an additional 5-7 business days for the order to be processed/completed. :-/
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C. -
[peter crawford] “my understanding is this use all 50 frames to slow down rather than fcp recreating new frames to make it slow”
Yes. If you are using FCP 7 (or lower) you need to do this other wise, when putting 50+fps footage on a 25 to 29.97fps timeline, FCP will basically throw away all the extra frames – then when you slow the footage to 50% it just blends the remaining frames instead of reintroducing the extra frames.
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C. -
[Rafael Amador] “That’s toooo high shutter speed and will produce an very unnatural look. More as a fast slide show than a movie.”
Not necessarily.. it depends on the intended purpose. If the purpose is to get sharp clean slomo of fast action without motion blur then yes – dial up that shutter. Heading north of 1000 is probably overkill – but then again you are after catching a fast punch and slowing it down, may be you want to go that fast to eliminate any motion blur for a Twixtor slomo to 10% playback.
As I mentioned another thread do some pre-production tests and find the look and technical work flow that gives you the look you are after…
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C. -
If you go with 720p60 – once you have your 50% slomo you can slow it down a touch more in your editing application before you really start to loose resolution.. I’d say an extra 10-15% at best. To push it further take a look at something like Twixtor.
As far as shutter – it depends on the look you are after. Do some tests and find the look that suites you best. A starting point might be something like a 180deg in relation to your intended playback speed IE: 100 for 50%, 500 for 10%…
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C. -
Depending on the scratch you’ll notice it more when near-focused and if it is deep enough to cause light refraction- typically if a light source is visible to the lens (like the effect of using an (x)-point star filter yet far less flattering or desired).
If it is minor enough you should be able to get away with it never being noticed in your footage. Only way to know for sure is to do some tests. Roll on some footage and pan/scan/tilt your camera on objects close to lens and also on distant objects – lock off the camera and roll on a face as the subject’s head turns and looks up/down – the throw up the resulting footage on your monitor and study the area on the screen where the scratch would be – notice anything? look for a slight softening around that spot or along the scratch line. Also try beaming a flashlight around the lens as you are rolling – see any light streaks on the scratch when you play back the footage?
Still photographers can get away with more in situations like this as any distortion created by the scratch will be less noticeable on a still than with moving footage. But if the scratch is superficial enough you can get away with it for video as well… Just do your tests to make sure you don’t end up with an ugly soft spot over an interviewees eye or a weird light-streak while tracking an object.
Colin McQuillan
Vancouver, B.C.