Bouncing Account needs new email address
Forum Replies Created
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Could you please explain in detail exactly what you had BEFORE and what is MISSING now?
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First thing to always try is to Quit FCP, Restart the Mac, Open your FCP project and try again.
Next:
THE FOLLOWING COMES FROM THE KEN STONE WEBSITE:
“Over 5,000 years ago Confucius wrote: ‘If you are toiling away, you have changed nothing and FCP heads South on you, [starts behaving in strange ways] then it is time to trash your FCP Preferences.’ ”Click the following link for instructions on how to do this.
https://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/trashing_fcp_prefs.html
A great way to do this is to use “FCP Rescue” a free Apple Script that will Trash the Preferences for you (and restore nearly all of your user settings afterward).
There are versions for FCPro & FCExpress.Download these free Apple Scripts at
https://fcprescue.andersholck.com/
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[justinheaney] “Is it because it is looking at the 3000 by 1800 pixels?”
Yes.
Reduce the image size in Photoshop to much closer to the size you need on the timeline BEFORE you import the images.
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[Shane Ross] “Who said editing was easy?”
Just ask those who created the ORIGINAL Brady Bunch open multi-split on FILM!
I wonder how many generations of passes had to go through the optical printer.
Plus, figuring the TIMING and positions of all the actors when they individually shot the actors.
This was done the first time when the show was an uncertain quantity.
Lots of expensive work on speculation.But look how its become a part of pop culture and an editing TEMPLATE.
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Watson, come here, I want you.
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This will work if all the clips in question are positioned in one position and you want to move them all to another position.
Adjust the first clip.
“Copy” it (Apple C)
Select (highlight) the other clips you want to change.
“Paste Attributes” (Option V)
Choose “Basic Motion”
All of the selected clips will match the position of the one you copied.This works for any and all of the selections you find in the “Paste Attributes” pop-up box.
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[kerplunk!] “(I had a bad Quicktime key, so was trying to do a workaround to convert the file. Apparently the workaround wasn’t working.)”
Remeber that iTunes works great for this as well (that’s what I use, always).
QT PRO does work great… but iTunes seems to be faster, after the initial set-up presets:
iTunes > Preferences > Importing > AIFF > Custom > 48.000 kHz, 16 bit, Stereo >OKOnce these are set, you won’t have to set them again.
Put a CD in the Mac (or use an imported audio file that’s already on the HD), open it up in iTunes, click once on the track you need, and choose:
Advanced> Convert Selection to AIFF.Works VERY fast and stores new 48 kHz file in the iTunes library. You can just “drag and drop” this new file (.aif) onto your open Browser.
I know some use FCP directly to re-sample their CD audio to 48 kHz, but I find the iTunes approach a good one that works well for me.
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Don’t be offended, but here is how I read your post.
1. You don’t have any equipment.
2. You don’t have any experience shooting your main subject, children.
3. You don’t have any control over your shooting conditions.
4. You don’t have much budget.
5. You want to buy inexpensive equipment, but not very much, that will make your shooting go well.Sorry, but all of these things together do not compute to a good outcome.
But let me post a few thoughts:
Do not spend any money on a cheap wireless system, it WILL fail to work when you need it.
Use a boom or lavalier mic ON A WIRE and have the children SIT for you, if they “run around” you won’t record a good inverview anyway.
If they want to “run” then shoot that as B-roll (with the in-camera mic getting the natural sound) to cut in over the actual interview or in other parts of the video.
Since the kids will be seated during the interview, you can use a sun refector to brighten thier faces in the close-up shots.
(You can just use white poster-board or foam-core and/or spread aluminum foil over the board for more reflection).If you can’t afford the Canon WA lens, then shoot without it (its about the cheapest “good” one available).
If you use an XLR adapter (“BeachTek” is what you wanted to say) then you don’t NEED to mount it to the tripod screw, just find a place on the tripod or camera to “stick it down” with Gaffer’s tape or Velcro.
The nature of some of these questions are SO basic that it makes me very concerned that you might get into some “serious trouble” once you start these interviews.
On-location in isolated poor conditions is NOT the best place to go as an inexperienced crew.
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Try a “soft cut” which is actually a 3-frame dissolve (looks virtually the same as a cut, but it might solve your problem.)
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The best method is to make a FireWire copy of the tape to another camcorder or deck which will generate a new continuous TC. (You said you can’t do this but did not say why.)
This will give you a new solid TC which will allow for accurate batch capture and will allow all recorded frames to be used in the edit.Another method is to Capture into FCP with the setting for Non-Controllable Device (which IGNORES any TC on the tape).
You can edit from this capture at your own risk, as you will not be able to RE-capture accurately if needed.
BUT, if you do this capture and THEN just turn around and copy it back OUT to the camcorder on a new tape, the camcorder will then generate new continuos TC on the new tape.
You’d then get rid of the captured (non-TC) footage in FCP and RE-capture only from the new copy with the capture settings returned to DV “controlled” this time. (The only reason to use this method is if you don’t have two DV camcorders with which to make a direct tape-to-tape FW copy.)There will be no generation-loss with either method because during the FW transfer, the DV files are unaltered.