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[tricky ricky] “with a built in paint program in my AVID|DS or using Ani-Matte in Composer”

That is a multi-$1000 option on Avid as I recall.

I have done a clean-up in FCP by adding a video layer above the primary track and putting a “previous” or “later” frame than the “damaged” one directly over it.
You can use a garbage matte or similar on the upper clip to mask out the offending mark(s).

Or export to Photoshop and clone it out.
(You can export/import a series of frames to do this, if necessary.)

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FIRST… do you have any other FW devices connected to the Mac at the same time as your camcorder?
If so, pull them and try to connect with FCP again.

AND TRY A NEW FW CABLE.

Remember, the FW should be connected (both ends) and the camcorder/deck should be turned on BEFORE you start FCP. That way FCP can “see” the FW device when it opens.

If you DON’T have any other FW devices connected, I’d suspect your camcorder.

Borrow and substitute ANY other FW camcorder and try it.

If the symptoms CLEAR UP (FW works normally), looks like your DCR-VX700 has a problem (FW-related).
If the symptoms are the SAME (spinning beach-ball) with the new camcorder, looks like your Mac has a problem (FW-related).

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I’ll just jump in here.

I saw this post and did a search to find the original thread from January 2005.

I saved Andy Mees’ instructions and followed them exactly (until I got to the “Save it to your…” section).

After renaming the effect to “Real 3d” (in the lines of code)
I went to the FXBuilder (pulldown menu) and
SAVED this new effect to my Desktop (after naming it again in the save box’s window).
(My Save button was not grayed-out at this point.)

Then I quit FCP, did a “Find” for “Final Cut Pro System Support” and
dragged the effect from my desktop into the “Plugins” folder.

Restarted FCP and the new effect (named “Real 3D”) was now sitting in the same folder along with the unaltered original.

(And it works great.)

Thanks for asking about this (as I missed it in January) and thanks to Andy for posting the “fix”.

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The audio is, by default, MUTED to the Mac’s speaker output during Log and Capture.

You should normally monitor the audio directly from the camcorder or deck you are using to capture (it is the preferred method).

CAUTION:
Many people have reported that noise or “pops” appear in the captured clips if the Mac’s internal audio is left on WHILE capturing… so may want to choose “Off During Capture.”

However, there is a way you can turn ON the Mac’s speaker if you really WANT to:

Final Cut Pro (menu) > Audio/Video Settings… > Capture Presets (tab)

“Duplicate” the Capture Preset you are now using, when the window opens rename it (I added “MacAudioOn” to the file name).

Click open the “Advanced” button in the Audio section and turn speakers to “ON during Capture.”
The Mac speakers/audio-out will now play Audio during the preview in the Log and Capture window.

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https://www.dvdxdv.com/
https://www.miraizon.com/products/products.html
https://www.alfanet.it/squared5/mpegstreamclip.html

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The best output for DV NTSC source and DV NTSC edit is DV NTSC.

If you have up-sampled the DV to an uncompressed timeline setting to add graphics, etc., then you’d want to output at the same uncompressed level to a deck with similar input/recording quality.

But just up-converting a DV edit for export will not gain “quality” (some would say you could LOSE some in the conversion).

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[JohnieBlayze] “I guess this means I need to purchase a mini-dv deck.”

The best little deck by consensus here on the COW is the Sony DSR11.
Its comparatively inexpensive, extremely rugged and reliable.
It records and plays in both DV SP and DVCAM speeds, and accepts miniDV and full-sized DV tapes without needing an adapter.
And it will play or record (but not “convert”) PAL and NTSC.

Here are some links: (the “real” prices are sometimes only available via email, due to a requirement by Sony… they run between 1500-1700 USD.)

https://www.promax.com/Movie/118

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=RetrieveSku&IC=SODSR11&kw=sony%20dsr%2011&Q=&O=

OTHERWISE:
If you just want to save wear and tear on your “good” camera, and save a LOT of money until you can buy a real deck…
Many editors use a small one-chip DV “home video” camcorder for their “editing deck”.
Since the process does not use the image chip section of the camera (just the “tape deck” section) the quality of playback and recording of any properly-operating small camcorder with a FW port will do just fine. (The quality of transfers is identical to a higher-priced deck.)
If you choose a Panasonic or Sony brand, they will also PLAY (but not record) any tapes recorded on other pro camcorders at DVCAM speed.
I can find used DV camcorders for under $150 (eBay, pawn shops, etc.)

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[JohnieBlayze] “I was going the S-Video route because I need to see the video on the NTSC monitor when I edit which I can’t do with the DV unless you can tell me how to do that.”

Turn camcorder on and put it in the VCR mode.
Hook the audio and video outputs of the camcorder to an external monitor.
Connect and leave the FireWire hooked up ONLY between the Mac and the camcorder (no FW connection to a capture card) there can only be one DV device (camcorder, deck, or FW capture card) connected to a Mac at any given time (FW hard drives are OK.)
Quit and restart FCP and choose:
View (Menu) > External Video > All Frames

You should hear/see FCP’s output via the camcorder’s A/V outputs.

For Log and Capture, leave the camcorder in VCR mode and the FW connected.
In the capture control setting, some camcorders work better with “FW” setting or some like “FWBasic” (NTSC or PAL).

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[JohnieBlayze] “Canon XL1 through S-Video to S-Video ports.”

Why aren’t you capturing DV via the FW port on the Mac?
FW is the best possible connection and transfer from/to a DV device.

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Right Mouse Button (2-Button Mouse) and select it.