Sony Ex1 footage noisy and grainy!

[Michael Slowe]

As a long timer user of an EX 1 I can suggest that this footage may have been shot in full ‘auto’ mode in error and, if the location was dark, the gain was bumped up too high. I mostly shoot with the gain at -3 provided the light allows this. As to the ‘judder’ this is puzzling. Since I still shoot interlaced I have no such problems, but, I do hear that progressive shots don’t pan as well as interlaced..

Concerning your choice of export codec, that’s up to who it’s for. What codec are you editing in? I go straight to ProRes 422 HQ in import of my EX footage and stay with it to the export. Great codec, compressed to save space, but no loss of quality, also, good for archive too as most people are happy to receive media in this codec.

Michael Slowe

[Tom Laughlin]

Thanks Michael.

I know this is another loaded question but, those of you with ex1s or ex3s, over the years, have you developed and could share some of the ways you dial in your own settings or settings that you’ve developed that work for you? Things you change or set and leave, and results or best practices with your camera menu and specs?

Also, there’s a DVD that Doug Johnson did, I wonder since it’s release, if it’s still worth getting or is there more up to date, more current, or just better training available online or on the web?

Any docs that were made that were shot on the ex1 that are worth checking out?

Thanks guys,

Tom

Tom Laughlin
Producer/Editor
Digital Chop House
Salt Lake City, Utah
http://www.digitalchophouse.com

[Michael Slowe]

Tom. I was going to mention Doug Jensen’s DVD, it’s required viewing (and referenced time and again) for all users of the camera. I can’t see that it would go out of date, the camera is still more or less the same, there’s been a few updates, but nothing major. I got mine free with the camera. Doug does cover the Picture Profile options quite comprehensively, offering some good suggestions since the original Sony settings are deliberately fairly neutral thinking, rightly, that people might have personal requirements.

For what it’s worth, I choose his setting and, of course, set everything to manual, I use the Peaking facility for focus (Medium at Blue), and Zebra for exposure. As I know my screen so well I rely on that to a great degree, it seems very accurate as far as exposure is concerned, but focus can be a problem. I believe that the new PMW 300 has an improved screen, this would be a great help. Mine is quite tricky in bright light and impossible in sun light – a good shade is vital.

You can get great pics with these cameras so study Jensen’s DVD.

Michael Slowe

[Michael Slowe]

Tom, I forgot to deal with your other request, for docs shot with my EX 1 have a look at my Vimeo site, link herewith: https://vimeo.com/user17404759

Michael Slowe

[Tom Laughlin]

Michael,

Bought and reviewed Diug’s dvd, it was so helpful. I even used his picture profile versus some others and concluded his to be the best, especially love the matrix set to shoot “HighSat”, saves me from having to add a little emote saturation and contrast in post, which can make e image slightly noisier.

Any thoughts on how you like to set up and better achieve Depth of Field?

I shoot mostly, with gain at -3db, if this even matters.

Also wanted to ask you about your thoughts on picture sharpness, if you do anything to help this in camera or in post. We live in a Dslr world, so editing this footage then editing ex1 footage, I wonder if I can continue to improve ex1 sharpness in a more organic way, rather than adding a tiny bit of sharpness in post.

Thoughts?

Tom Laughlin
Producer/Editor
Digital Chop House
Salt Lake City, Utah
http://www.digitalchophouse.com

[Michael Slowe]

Tom, you confused me with your mail because I couldn’t find the thread until I realised that it went back to June!

I’m glad you liked the Doug Jensen PP’s, I used them from when I first got my EX 1 and viewed his DVD. As to your depth of field question, this comes down to basic photographic principles that I thought we all learnt at our mother’s knee. The wider the aperture the shallower the DOF, similarly, the longer the focal length of the lens, the shallower the DOF. The problem often is that the light is too bright for a wide aperture (f1.9 or f2). This is where the built in neutral density filters come in handy to darken the picture to allow correct exposure with the wide aperture. I often find that two filters don’t give enough choice, and I find myself between the two. I notice that the new Sony camera has three ND filters. You can of course fit an external one if required.

The choice of focal length (zoom) is more problematic because the situation often doesn’t allow a long tele setting due to space and distance from your subject. What I haven’t mentioned is the size of the chip in the camera. The larger the chip, the shallower DOF. The consumer cameras often have small chips which makes life very difficult. Our EX’s, with half inch chips are easier, the new 35mm sensors are the real business and will give similar DOF performance as the DSLR’s that you like using. I’m seriously considering looking at the new Sony with this large sensor.

Michael Slowe